Nickfromwales

You can have the stud walls just off the joists which allows you to come up inside the stud, but tbh, BCO usually start crying if you put a waste pipe in a stud wall between two habitable rooms due to the noise of the water discharging through it. Have you thought of a false stud wall in front of the main one? If you plasterboard the first with acoustic control PB then fit a false 2x2" stud wall with the pipework inside that, then ply then PB you tick all the boxes and hide all your pipework ( with the ply to hold all fixtures / mirrors etc . ).

Page 8 uses the word NEVER a good few times when referring to drilling into / through the chord. I'd never drill or notch one myself, not even to appease a customer . Accommodation of pipework should have been considered at the design stage so best to shout at someone else.

Welcome aboard .

I'd only use an aggregate if it's 25mm or over. For the thickness you need I'd just use SL out of the bag. 2-part SL is best, and each 20kg bag comes with a 5 litre container of add-mixture which gives you an exact mix every time. . The water mix ones aren't that good TBH and don't 'flow" as well imo, so stick with the 2-part. This is what I use....Link

As said, half inch is way too thin for sand and cement. You can lay a dry screed with fibres if the layer doesn't get thinner than 8-10mm anywhere, but you then need a particularly fussy resin primer / bond coat which cannot be walked on during application and laying. Self leveller with fibres is what I'd go for, but I'd be quite concerned about getting good adhesion to the existing floor as it's clearly been down for a while and is likely to be contaminated with things that SL won't want to stick to very well. Scrub the floor and soak it first with a 75% water 25% flexible tile primer, then when that's dry, say 2-3 hours, apply another coat at 50/50 ration prior to laying the SL. Have the floor absolutely saturated with the primer solution, literally soaking, and that'll help the SL to flow easily and ensure a great bond too. Never pour SL onto a dry floor as it'll just bite and not flow anywhere.

Comes complete with a previously owned sink in "near perfect" condition .

Hi and welcome Andrew. Could we ask that you post a brief introduction in the 'introduce yourself' section please . Many thanks. .

Time to start stamping your feet. Get an SE's input ASAP before moving an inch. £££'s

Are these two heros confused as to whether or not you have a liquid screed . All that needs doing to a fresh concrete slab, if finished reasonably well, is a good douse with a flexible tile primer, watered down 50/50, and left to dry. You'll go through a lot so a disposable mop and bucket is the easiest route or a roller. Put plenty on. Silicone expansion gaps at the door thresholds for a slab of that size laid in one straight run wouldn't hurt, but as its a low temp slab it really shouldn't be an issue vs a higher temp retro-fitted system. id go with the two who want to lay direct, and, fwiw, I don't use Ditra mat unless it's a wood floor or an unknown substrate, eg extreme circumstances. Make sure any self levelling is done ONLY where the low spots are. I hate it when people level the whole floor, making the high points even higher. Waste of time, materials and cost. Ask these questions of the two more sensible candidates and see what their response is.

Not afaik. Some taps do come supplied with them, but that's usually because they've come from outside the uk. Fixed taps cannot get submerged so therefore there should be no need to worry about preventing back flow contamination, unlike say a shower with a hose & handset that could get left in dirty bath water and the problems then start, with the possibility for that water to be drawn back into the potable network in the house by syphoning. Regs only really cover you contaminating the network mains so the one place where back flow prevention is definitely required is at the cold mains stopcock for each property. I don't think the DNO give a monkeys about you drinking your own bath water, but they sure as hell don't want next door drinking it, should they be working on it for eg. Some manufacturers cheat and say their taps are suitable for connection to gravity hot and cold mains pressure cold, but do this by sending the tap supplied with inline non return valves ( NRV's ) which you simply screw onto the end of the supplied flexis. These are not proper mixed flow taps, and the cold mixing with the hot in the body is often enough to stop hot water getting out of the spout as the cold mains pressure overwhelms the gravity hot supply to the point that it A) simply won't flow out of the tap spout, or B) will start to force the hot water back up the hot supply pipework to the tank and back-fill the CWS tank ( to the point it starts coming out of the overflow if left long enough ). Showers typically come with NRV's fitted, because of the hose, but not always. Best to check for your own piece of mind but I don't believe it's, ( inside the domestic dwelling ), regs. Basically, afaic, its down to the plumber / installer to ascertain if the tap is suitable for connection to the type of system available, and fit NRV's accordingly if so required. It does however become a requirement under G3 to have these fitted ( retro fited in existing installations ) if you retro fit an UVC after having a gravity fed system. It is also a G3 / manufacturer requirement to fit a primary NRV on the hot outlet of the UVC when undertaking an UVC retro fit, ( where the house cannot be / is not suitably plumbed for 'balanced' hot and cold feeds ), to ensure there is a failsafe provision to prevent back pressurisation of the UVC in the event that the satellite NRV's ever fail. The latter must be done even if fitting a second, additional, ( failsafe ) PRedV at the cold mains stopcock, ( which cleverly creates a balanced household hot and cold system without altering any of the existing pipework, and negates the pita retro fitting of the satellite NRV's ).

A) Mother Earth mate. You dig a hole, she tells you what's there . B) Sand blind is a surface filler for the type one. You don't need much if you've prepped and levelled the type one properly. I suggest the 25mm as an additional protection for the DPM and it can be counted into the insulation layer, making 100mm of eps up out of the 25mm blinding cover, and a further 75mm of eps for the difference. C) What is the cost of excavating the extra 50mm depth? If more than the difference in cost of the insulation then PIR it is ? D) I wouldn't, but eps doesn't absorb water so not really anything to stop that. Tough one to call tbh. E) Question the architect, but if that's come from him asking the SE for a design then there must be some merit to it. If not, go direct to the SE and ask him to justify its requirement. Perimeter insulation. 25mm should be fine, for the money though, go PIR. Humidity sensors, what for ? When the slab is 'dry', end of the chat. Run the hot and cold, individually insulated, under the slab. Don't run them in the Ufh heated slab as they'll get warmed and cold water won't be cold. Wrap them with Armorflex, and go around that with duct tape to keep'it sealed. No need for ducting / pipe conduit then. If running electrical conduit go for 25mm so it's easier to pull through. Others will advice on the ducting for services .

Only if the manufacturers instructions state so . Taps that mix in the spout or body almost always do, but taps which are stated fit for purpose with mixed pressure inputs can only do so by making sure the two bodies of water cannot ever meet. People may already have these type of taps and not even know about it. A quick check will reveal it..... Turn the hot on only and see where the water comes out of the spout. If it's a pencil flow from the dead centre, and then changing over to cold is a ring flowing from the spout edges then you've a mixed flow tap. The hot and cold never actually meet with that type of tap, so no requirement for back-flow prevention ?

Another 2 degrees and you could connect an outside loo to that

Qty .

If it's the kitchen sink tap, it may well have separate water ways all the way to the spout. Some mix at atmosphere and some mix in the spout, dependant on whether or not they're mixed pressure taps or not eg gravity hot & cold mains capable.

+1

I was kind of shocked to see an M not a Bn after the £246 . That'll just about cover expenses most likely...........

I'm shocked it takes so long for some. I guess some people just didn't realise we'd so quickly forge a new forum. But we did

Get the house wired for an all RCBO Consumer Unit too. Plenty of segregation and a bit of redundancy is good. Less to lose if a breaker trips. ? Outside socket for every outside tap is a good rule, jet wash or Hoover etc.

I'm still wondering why the government hasn't better anticipated this next jump, and subsequently started a compulsory solar Pv fitting drive to every uk home. 2 panels or 4 panels on the roof of every home, controlled by the same system as E7 to stop over volting at peak generation times, used to offset wholesale energy costs and thus create a budget to beef up the local distribution networks / make them smarter. Every home has the sun shining on it, why the hell aren't we using it more intelligently ? What happens if the signal to ping your freezer back on gets interrupted?

Proper drain to the boiler location for the condensate water. Doorbell. Telephone cable. Outside sockets and lights, plus a master switch so you can bring on your security lights manually from inside the house if 'spooked'. Front and rear outside taps, if the property is sizeable. This is could be a bloody long list.

Hi, and welcome to the forum . Trials and tribulations a-plenty here so dig in!.

Welcome aboard. Documenting the bits that went well make a good forum, but documenting the things that went wrong / not to plan make a great forum . Well be glad to hear all of it .

We can't forget a username like that Welcome back Bigspud .

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