Nickfromwales

I'll get my coat.

Just leave it coiled up each end ?

Just dig a little deeper and bury the SWA directly into the ground. There's really no need for ducting, and where it may get driven over just sleeve that with an old scaffold pole. Set that into concrete later if needs be but I doubt it would ever need it as the weight can't transfer onto the cable at any one point with the scaffold pole around it ( say 10' long for eg ). You'll prob spend more ducting and fading than just buying the cable TBH

Cutting glass mosaics isn't an envious task. I can mark them in straight lines with my big ( 1200mm ) rubi cutter and use my big nibblers to break them but it's just horrible TBH. If your wet cutting with a good new blade in an electric wet cutter then the little glass shards and 'flyers', which go everywhere when dry cutting, tend to stay on the cutter where you can keep washing / hosing down ( I rarely cut inside with glass ). You can't rub the dust / shards off with your hand so you need a bucket of water to clean down, where the glass bits can collect at the bottom. Coloured glass mosaics start life as clear regular bits of glass which then have a coloured film / backer applied to create the illusion of the colour going right through. Not damaging that backer is very important so take care if your cutter isn't new / could damage it. . Cutting slowly with plenty of water is my preferred method, and it's much more forgiving as you can shave a blades width off to give a cleaner edge if you so choose / have to. Point conceded .

A kitchen without sockets may be a rarity . Not seen one yet .

Ive not used one of these. Is it ok dry, straight onto porcelain ?

Around sockets etc ?

One begs to interject......will you need L shape cuts? I assume so unless your the luckiest man alive ?

I fitted Mermaid acrylic / Perspex ( unsure exactly what tbh ) panels and wasn't exactly "blown away". The same company supplied again, but with the ply core, as JSH mentions, and they were far more robust and retained their shape well. The acrylic / flexible panels were very hard to get bonded to the wall uniformly, as in not being able to see every pressure point where you've pressed the panel into the bond / adhesive, so I really would avoid those ( non-ply ) ones. Mermaid as a brand are ok, but I believe you'll be paying a premium for the name though. Maybe compare with J's supplier and see what the difference is .

No. She was there to cancel your gold card

I would never silicone the same day as grouting, ever. Anyone doing this ( properly ) for a living would know you can't get silicone to stick to even damp grout. . Coming back to seal up the next day / eve is the norm, and with the sealing around a bath or shower being so fundamentally important, I'd not want that rushed TBH. Not wanting to wait another day is just impatience and we know where that leads to ....... "Darling, what's that damp patch on the living room ceiling?" and more importantly how long has it been leaking before we noticed it Everest fitted a £30k aluminium conservatory / sunroom where I am at the mo, and they listened to the customers request to forget about proper process and just finish the job eg lay the tiles over a non cured liquid screed. Guess what I'm doing the first week of September ? Trades tell customers how it's done properly and customers wait for it to be done accordingly. Anything else is a short cut afaic. Anyone who is advised to wait and doesn't listen is in charge of their own fate.

Naah, you make everyone feel like they're building at warp speed

All you have to do now is fit it ?

You have to do what you feel is right . Please update accordingly with some as-you-go pics if you don't mind ?

Shhhhhh @JanetE..... I have to try and charge people for doing this on the basis that it's a "specialist job". ? ? From now on just say it's really tricky and never try this at home ????

And much easier to strim / mow against too.

Sorry, only now seeing this. ? Cheers for the effort, I'll order that this week so it's ready for the second fix electrics ? Bingo bango.

Works for me

You won't get your leg over ever again if you don't get a move on

He's a good looking guy

I think it's the one @jack posted earlier ?

Ffs just BUY one ????? £12 !!!!!!!! Some muvva's doooo 'ave 'em

@jamiehamy Ok cheers for the update . What is the invert ( the distance between the bottom of the outlet on the WC pan, to the bottom of the soil pipe where it reverts back to horizontal after the fall ) as you can petition not to have an AAV on the stack if the invert is, iirc, less than 1300mm. You can further reinforce that petition by fitting an AAV ( anti-vac ) trap on the basin so you have air admittance there.

Take photo and video evidence plus the testimony of the company that wants to rip it all out and start again and tell the house builders you'll go to the courts for compensation, and explain that you feel that you should discuss this with all of the neighbours to make them aware that they may also have incorrectly / poorly fitted systems. Explain that you'll only use a 3rd party contractor of your choice to carry out reparations and see with what / how they respond . Dont threaten them, just a polite letter of how you intend to proceed. If a camera survey shows moisture and mould growth in the bathroom / kitchen ducts then it's also a health hazard so maybe get the video survey done first for peace of mind ( and ammunition ? ).