Nickfromwales

Iirc @JSHarris posted a spreadsheet for this. He'll reply shortly. Im a little less refined and use 'plumbers eye' for most of my specifying. I'm never far out TBH, but usually over rather than under. "You can turn a big boiler down but you can't turn a small boiler up" etc. ?

Glad to hear your not bitter ??

You need to calculate your delta flow temp and then work out your ventilation and fabric heat losses. From there you will know your 'idle' kw requirement ( when the house is at ambient and just being maintained as so ) and then see if that's = to or lesser than the lowest output of your chosen boiler. The likelihood is it will be less than the boiler can efficiently produce which means it'll modulate the output down and live under the condensing threshold aka at a quite reduced efficiency. To combat that and get maximum efficiency you ideally want the boiler to come on at a higher temp and pulse heat into a thermal battery ( buffer ) to store the produced heat energy ready for the UFH to consume it as required. Running the UFH directly from the boiler would see it short-cycling a lot and that's not a good design. For my curiosity, why LPG when you could have an ASHP ?

Nice kitchen ?

I wouldn't say best, but a hell of a lot easier.

If you have an ASHP it'll also become white goods and power diverted into that will offset your space heating a little too. There is only so much you can squeeze out of pv, but it's so much better than ST imo.

Can we have a pic of what you have already got and what you've bought . A lot of uncertainty here at the moment of thermostat vs element. An immersion is made up from both.

What about a piece of 40mm white L angle pvc bonded to the underside of the cabinet to give a white shadow then the reduced plinth in front of that ? That coupled with the white topped / veneered plinth should take your eye off it.

Ok, so is this contained to one room if only one is marked or will it also need to match in the kitchen diner? Are the kitchen diner thresholds level with the one marked ?

Don't forget you'll have white goods etc to consume any excess whilst the immersion kicks in and out. Pv isn't just for hot water, and during the summer / peak times of generation you will export and get paid for each unit you 'sell'.

Ok. I'll open that on the iPad later when you've updated the info ?

I think I'd want to discourage that from going through the drawers. Maybe just increase the cut to 14-15mm ? B&Q do a white plastic U section which has you can get to fit over the top cut edge. Easier than veneer and hard wearing too.

Ok so you left a purposeful 10mm gap all round so no specific draught at one point. Good way to deal with that .

Add as much info as you can. ?

But at least you can export that energy with Pv .

I've taken as much as a half inch with adhesive, but then I was getting 3-4 600x600 tiles laid from one 20kg bag. At that stage I stopped and chucked some self leveller down ready for the next lot of tiles to go down as it was getting silly. Popped the laser up and showed the customer the floor ran out 15mm from one end of the kitchen diner to the other, about 5.5m. Got just over half way before I stopped laying and levelling as I went with adhesive. I kept the floor running flat as a mill pond as I was running past the sliding doors to their conservatory and wanted to give a flush finish to that threshold. The floor was partially raised with insulation boards, for UTH, so the final levelling was just to raise the 15mm I simply hadn't seen to level, ( the builder who did the knock-through self levelled the whole area before my arrival, but just made it smooth not level my mistake for assuming it was done properly ). We really need to establish where this floor runs out in relation to reference points such as sliding doors and internal door thresholds etc before commenting further. Edit to add : the above floor could have followed the subfloor and just have had half of the undulation taken out if it want for the sliding doors, so only 7.5mm taken out rather than the full 15mm for eg.

@Barney12 Ok, just to better grasp this. Your rooms are to be tiled through from one space to another, room to room, seamlessly? Does the tiled floor run past several external / folding door thresholds, and have you established that all the door thresholds are all exactly the same level off a datum you've fired through the floor space ? Do you have a flor plan you can post with an example of where the tiled floor starts and finishes ? Saves a lot of typing. .

One of many Online calculators

I'd also screed and tank all the floors with a fall to the door so a running tap / burst pipe wouldn't cause any serious damage. Tiled all round too so it can be bleached and power washed.

I'd have thought lol. No worries about legionella / seasonal disinfection / purging then too. Easier to mothball it with electric showers and instants over sinks with no stored water in them.

I take it they already have / will have a chunky electricity supply. ? Electric showers seem the easiest solution.

Don't think it'll go on my roof rack

Now they do look cool. You could even have 2 of those and run them at lower speeds so extraction rates were high but noise was low. Good for those who like to cook and chat / entertain. Linky

Ok, that's not going to work. What stitches ? ?

What he said ?