Jump to content

Nickfromwales

Members
  • Posts

    30994
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    328

Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. And there was me thinking only I got such shit luck. Sorry to hear that ian. Chin up and engage the brain, there will be a way through you'll just have to find it.
  2. If the same person will be using the mask ONLY, then get a keeper. If not, get the disposable one and gift it to them. Hygiene comes into it more importantly afaic.
  3. What happens on the mile, stays on the mile
  4. Our initiation as an apprentice spark with SWEB was 'off with one eyebrow' day ? Looked a PROPER tw4t so I shaved the other one off. Then people thought I was dying. How we laughed. ?
  5. You've come to the right place. Welcome aboard. Remember, to reduce the rent bill you can move into a static on site once you've got planning etc in the bag. That can reduce outgoings massively and you can spend that outside dead money on a flashy kitchen instead. They're a lot more accommodating than most think so keep it in mind.
  6. Don't go too low or you'll blow all the dust and ? up off the floor .
  7. Go over all the grooves with at least one full coat, staying away from the adjacent faces of the render 'blocks'. Once you've been right around all of these aka cutting in is done, go around the perimeter and do the same. See how well the beads have covered and coat them again, only if absolutely necessary. Do all the fiddly detail work before reloading the machine for the general spray work as when your moving at a pace you really don't want to be arsing around with nooks and crannies .
  8. Fwiw, with hydro covering your losses id deffo put it in the garage, and I'd also install a hot return loop so your not waiting for hot water at the taps.
  9. Don't ask him.....tell him . Your paying ?
  10. I've only ever used the cheapest ones which were also used for prepping for skimming etc. Never lost a patient. yet.
  11. +1. Prime the concrete first with 50/50 PVA and water and absolutely saturate it. Do NOT let the builder just pour it straight on. The slab will suck it dry before it's levelled out properly, and make 1m% sure they use 2-part leveller NOT the water mix one.
  12. Adaptors
  13. All depends on how much surface contact there would be ?
  14. You using them dry ? When i drill porcelain on the deck I cheat. Get a gun with some decorators caulk and make a dam about 50mm in diameter with the caulk, surrounding but away from where the hole is to be made. Fill it with water and then drill the hole wet. You'll find it drills much quicker, and it massively reduces wear on the bit.
  15. What are you using to drill the porcelain?
  16. F&E Feed and expansion tank aka a header tank for central heating. When you stick your head up your nans attic you'll see two plastic tanks. One is the F&E and the others the CWS ( cold water storage) tank. The F&E will have spent its life full of ferrous corrosion and possibly inhibitor chemicals ( which will kill you if drunk ) so best to be sure what your water will be sat in. What size is the tank? A CWS will usually be 24"x24"x18" high or so and an F&E will be be around 12"x18"x12" high or so.
  17. You get any rats / other vermin in the boat ? When did you last see a caravan with an open water tank on its roof ? .
  18. Nice hiut though lol.
  19. +100. Not just easier, but safer and more hygienic. . Stop what your doing and don't drink that water, eg no brushing the teeth in it. This is not a good idea, and I'd only use that water to fill a flushing toilet. Sorry to piss on the chips but you really shouldn't pursue this imho. A pump will give you useable force at the taps, and it'll be fresh clean water from a roll along butt. The fact it's a second hand tank also worries me, I certainly hope it's not an old F&E tank? Do you know what it was doing previously? Not a fan of this idea, sorry
  20. I'd unify your equipment and use Wunda throughout. I used to fit B Dev's manifolds with pumped blenders using TMVs, but after reading primarily @JSHarris's feedback their better suited to standard BR builds rather than low energy builds. Youll need to get around 45-50oC into a convector radiator to get any useful heat out of it really, ( especially with the small rads your quoting ), so just check what the max setting is on the manifold blender before purchasing. Have you considered trench heaters under the bedroom windows instead of obtrusive radiators?
  21. Especially when you compare the cost of thicker aluminium layers to very very thin 'aluminium' layers .
  22. @najem-icf Ill just give you a little nudge here All the members here will take nothing as a given, and usually with merit. The feedback you get here will always be impartial, and given freely, and a lot of it is from people who have bought, and installed such products, for better or for worse, and are willing to share their findings with the members and guests who frequent here, for their benefit. Its not a battle, it's a constructive volley everyone benefits from, so take the replies with a pinch, and take any criticism or indifferences as constructive only, as I assure you they're meant to be . Most folk here will tell you how it is, not how they think it is, ( apart from me where I usually only open my mouth to change feet ). Stay tuned, it's about to get interesting
  23. A good shepherd watches over his flock. Now flock off. ✌️️??
×
×
  • Create New...