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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    I won't even use tools that I gained inadvertently, and actively seek to get them back to who owns them. Working with other trades makes me realise that ethos is rare . Trades know their own tools well enough to realise it doesn't belong to them, so they know they're taking something that doesn't belong to them. Once had a pair of 8.4v B&D cordless drill-drivers, my first ever ones, and as I was using both drills I had the other two batteries and chargers out charging away from me. Went to refresh, and gone. Both chargers and both spare batteries. That got my blood boiling.
  2. Nickfromwales
    Not even that, just live, neutral & earth and that's it for the pump, no need for the fourth core. Dont fotget you'll need a 2-port valve for each manifold, to stave off convection heat circulation, and wherever you put those you will need a cable too. The stat or timeclock should tell the 2-port valve to open, by energising the brown wire, and the switched pair ( orange and grey ) in the 2-port should control the manifold pump. Basically that means the pump will never run unless the 2-port is fully open. You don't just connect the 2-port and the pump off the same 'call for heat' terminal or the pump will spin before the valve is open. Not life or death as a true manifold setup will recirculate, but standard practice.
  3. Nickfromwales
    I can see it would work, just that altering any one port effects the balancing on both manifolds, a bit like folk are saying they have to go back and forth balancing their entire MVHR after adjusting just one outlet. . Also, when your blending the UFH flow the pump usually sucks through the TMV, so where / how do you blend the UFH flow temp ?
  4. Nickfromwales
    For vinyl you should really put a ply base down to cover the joints in the P5, but for a room this small I doubt you'll need it. Fill and sand the joints in the P5, to get rid of any noticeable 'notch', and you'll be fine.
  5. Nickfromwales
    Does it make you tile quicker ?
  6. Nickfromwales
    I don't really like that idea tbh as balancing flow between the two manifolds could be an issue if they're far apart. In Barneys case they're on different levels too.
  7. Nickfromwales
    Always run too many cores. 8 for anything needing 6 and 6 for anything needing 4 or 2. Try and avoid running 8 to door magnetics or break glass sensors as there really is next to no room whatsoever in them. .
  8. Nickfromwales
    Your not supposed to use solid core cable for alarms as it's not considered reliable enough. Stranded has less chance of snapping and is FAR more forgiving when trying to make off 6 cores in the back of a little pir / remote keypad ( RKP ). . I don't think you'll get a NARCOSS ( iirc ) certificate with solid core cable either.
  9. Nickfromwales
    Hard wired all the way. I integrated my wired alarm system with my outside lighting, to operate when the alarm was triggered, connected to the strobe output. So after the alarm silenced itself the outside of the property still stayed floodlit. I fitted remote switches in the rear bedrooms, gleaned from spare pairs in the cables doing the window magnets, so SWMBO could flick the outside lights on without shutting the alarm off and going downstairs. With hard wired it can be made quite bespoke, A battery powered security system just doesn't appeal to me at all. Far more choice of sensors and end equipment with wired.
  10. Nickfromwales
    It does sometimes require the original flue to be either cut back, or replaced if it's too short.
  11. Nickfromwales
    The one I've been offered is a decent sized machine. I'll see what power it can run.
  12. Nickfromwales
    They're just random google images .
  13. Nickfromwales
    Yup. These kinds of thing :- g These are called, "plume management kits" and can be all sorts of crazy arrangements for redirecting nuisance plume. .
  14. Nickfromwales
    £70 for a 1000x500mm ready to go. Is it really worth the ag?
  15. Nickfromwales
    Possibly THE last place you want to yank the purse strings tight . Clean the mould release agent thoroughly from the underside, it's like a greasy layer, and rough it up with some 40 grit sandpaper. Prime the ply with 50/50 PVA and water and then set the tray down in rapid set tile adhesive. Put a lot of weight down in the bowl of the tray, not the edges, and tap it gently to get the level right. Lots of light taps NOT a big thump . Allow 24hrs before removing the weight ( cardboard and then buckets of sand / etc ) and it'll be there forever. You ok with how to make the trap and pipework up to line up with the tray hole and then you wind the top price in after ?
  16. Nickfromwales
    I've fitted umpteen of these flexible wastes over the last 10+ years without a single issue, complaint or failure. They're actually extremely reliable when fitting the likes of McAlpine. I kept two spare boxes of tiles for my bathroom, tiled over a 3-way diverter valve and boxed and tiled my bath panel over a click-clack waste and combination overflow filler. The simple fact is, almost every outlet valve and tap is now serviced / overhauled from the top / front, with the exception of say an overflow filler. The only thing I've been impressed with is @Onoff's bath tap retaining do-daa so you can make the taps off over the bath and offer them back down once tested. Sweet. I will say that I'd only ever fit deck taps ( not a pair of single stand alone taps ) so you cannot ever have them rotate and come loose, a comm problem simply alleviated by fitting a deck ( one-piece ) tap. +1 on the flip waste, just done one and I'm sold on the idea.
  17. Nickfromwales
    No current issues with damp? I would try and avoid breaking the slab up midway as it's reliant on being a complete raft. I think you may be better off just breaking out what you need to, let the chippings fall down, build your wall and then line it with a DPM. Then backfill with a very wet, but strong concrete mix with 10mm aggregate. Make a T-bar up to paddle the concrete up and down so it 'washes' under the slab and backfills the void, all the way up to the original slab ( top ) level, but short of the screed. Reapply the tanking solution and finish with leveller or screed.
  18. Nickfromwales
    Low fat ?
  19. Nickfromwales
    You could drill a series of core holes down to the 'chippings' and then make a very wet, high cement content slurry / grout and wash it down through to get them to bind. The only issue that may cause is introducing damp bridges up to the slab underside. Any idea what's there for DPM?
  20. Nickfromwales
    For making racking and possibly roof support 'trusses' out of 40 and 60mm box, for the shed, am I better off with mig or arc?
  21. Nickfromwales
    Looking good. Having the upstand does give some forgiveness but you still have balls of steel my man! Like the mash-up with the lights, and I may well steal the oak decor end idea too, of course pretending that it was my idea
  22. Nickfromwales

    Heads up

    Nickfromwales commented on sussexlogs's blog entry in sussexlogs

    What I was thinking ??
  23. Nickfromwales
    Just tell him either he does it in line with your program or you'll give him the bill for someone else to do it. Do you owe him any monies ?
  24. Nickfromwales
    UVC yes, just DHW. Greensquare are wrong as they've shown in the schematic you posted ( was it their drawing to you? ) that their separating the rads and UFH circuits with zone valves. It would only be ok if the rads were on with the UFH in parallel at all times and even then it would be less than ideal. Oil boilers like to run hard and long and are most efficient when doing so, and they don't modulate like gas and electric units can. An oil boiler firing just to put heat into your small UFH circuit would be unable to match the low demand as the UFH manifold wouldn't allow it to put more than ~35oC in at any time, and even less when the slab has warmed up. Id say a buffer of 120L with oil would be a good match.
  25. Nickfromwales
    Basically it's saying don't just slap the glue onto a fresh liquid screed and expect it to stick . The post-cure surface laitence needs to be mechanically removed, grinder etc, and then the surface needs to be primed over a couple of sessions to provide a key for the surface to be ready to accept this adhesive.
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