Nickfromwales

Gap at the top with a 45o stay bar I think on that one. Nothing on the floor, and certainly no big gap between the tiles. How dare you. ✊ Nope. ''Twas a straight one

Works ok if you don't get 'busy' and splash the water everywhere. ? Pipes out of the wall so mopping is easy.

I did say it was like eating fackin cardboard. ?

I'm using the 500 or so empty takeaway containers that my wife washed out and kept ! That's why I need the bastard granola. I don't eat in the morning first thing, as the 4 kids absorb any spare time for sustaining my own life. I take it to work and munch it with a pint of milk, half over the granola and the rest to wash the stuff down. Saves washing spoons ✌️

They could have at least removed the horns

Same again ?

That one was a 2000mm x 850mm shower area ( mosiac tiled ) and the glass was iirc 1400mm long. Aluminium wall profile can be seen in the second pic, but I always bond the glass straight down to the tiled floor with clear CT1 as bottom channels look rough as toast and harbour water, grot and worse. Point being, you don't need anything complicated, but you do need to do a good job of fitting the screen. Masking tape either side of where the glass will hit the floor / tray, smear a bit of CT1 along the 1000mm long run and rub it in and get some adhesion going, then apply a generous 10-15mm bead of CT1 along the bit you just smeared ready to drop ( lol ) the glass down onto. Two man job tbh, but I have done them on my own when I have had to. Set the glass down gently and let it displace the CT1. Clean off the excess with wet wipes and multisolve spray, the bit you'll love the most More on that when you get to that stage

Your tray will usually be delivered with a completely flat upper surface, unless you ask for an 'up-stand' tray, so 'compatibility' isn't a problem. A bit of glass is a bit of glass, so buy the cheapest one you can. 6mm will need a wall brace, but 8mm may allow you to have one stand alone. 10mm would be best so it takes a knock or two, as its a rental. . You want a good 1000-1100mm of glass so...Victorian plumbing have this offering. Quite a nice unit with the end pole going up to the ceiling, if you don't mind the glass having a 'frame', or this one for a £100 less and no end frame. Reasonable places to start benchmarking the types / costs . Do you not have a local glass supplier you could ask to quote?

Not if you keep chomping the cheese coated stakes mate Sound dangerously good, but I'm on a bit of a diet thing at the mo. Kicked breakfasts into touch in favour of granola "It's granola!" , still beats the shit out of muesli . They should feed prisoners on muesli, and watch the crime rates drop over night.

That looks the bollocks mate. What's the little window? A light tunnel? ( taken the labourer missus for a slap up meal yet ).

That's just computer generated free waffle. Get a piece of graph paper and you'll draw out a much better layout in minutes. Scrap copies first so you can just bin them until its looking good. .

I don't ever lay 'serpentine' as it's a pita and doesn't heat evenly. I much prefer reverse / inverted TBH. That way you only have one or two tight 180o bends in the middle of the loop rather than the 36 or more you have in your first revision .

Hi and welcome. Get some pics uploaded so we can see where your building. Pics are good .

+1 Id go for ply not aquapanel as it's really hard to feather out the joints compared to ply. Last large Amtico floor I saw being laid was over plywood, glued and screwed. A feathering compound was used to smooth the joints and fill the screw heads. After countersinking screws into a 6mm AP id be worried about just how much meat was left at each fixing.

You have been warned . Just don't even think of wiping it clean or it'll be....."hello again plaster"...followed by...."bollocks!"

It's ok to have a soldered joint in an inaccessible place you know . Average homes have scores of them, and dry carpet .

Ah, I'd not considered such lunacy ? It appears your right, so apologies. @Onoff, you can get my coat for me. ?

Yup. Sounds good. The WC's in particular shouldn't affect the flow to the shower, so getting as much of the cold 'backbone' in 22mm is the way forward. Once you've cleared the bathrooms I'd drop back to 15mm for any runs that then terminate at a single outlet. A flow restrictor(s) on the cloakroom bog and taps may be a big help too, as you want to preserve as much pressure / flow when showering as possible.

But the consumer does not have access to these points. If you send a DNO generated earth AND provide a rod at the consumer location, and said rod earth becomes detached / high resistance, is that not where the problem lays? Were not talking about the local area network, which isn't public domain, we're talking about someone's home here so best keep the T's crossed ?. Ill get my coat and tin hat ready ?

Happy days. . Thanks for the update ?

Be careful making those kinds of promises.

PMSL

Aren't you better off with just a rod at that stage so you can't get two separate earths at two different potentials? ( Didnt Harold mention this in one of his rants? )

I don't know TBH, as you'd get a soldered bend almost flush to the rear of the brass plate where it's already brazed. Not a bad idea

50mm . No problem running 2 showers then lol.