Nickfromwales

Can't you just use more strong boys if loading is the issue ? Needles are a heck of a lot of disruption ?

If I've grabbed the wrong end of the stick I'll apologise and put it with all the other sticks .

It'll be the orange propane iirc. TBH your gas fitter needs to advise you properly. I take it your not doing this yourself? Gas + hero = bigbaddaboom .

Thats the locate button too. Very handy in a large or 3 storey house. If the smoke alarms go off you press locate and it silences all the alarms except the one that's been triggered, so you can head there immediately to investigate.

The resistance of the water flowing through the UFH loops vs the cold mains would leave positive pressure in the hose, ( unless it's a ridiculously low pressure supply ). Plus the pipe would need to be constrained at the point of the pinhole. Likelihood of Venturi type suction occurring along the hosepipe? Imo, zilch. The ufh pump / manifold rarely gives a flow rate of more than 5 litres per minute through each circuit so it's vital to use the cold mains purge first to ensure that no pockets of air remain. The loop can airlock with ease when you revert back to the pump only if it's not 'blasted' through. Ive serviced a few where one zone has air-locked and the others are working. Sometimes you can get them going again if you turn every other actuator off but some I've had to purge through again, usually in installs where the pipes rise slightly as they move away from the manifold.

What did it say !!!!!

Now your just showing off. I still chuckle when I read the title of this thread .

You need a hug ? ?

Oh I think it'll get enough time to cure

The pressure differentials here would just see mains water squirting out . If air is getting in that way il donate my next donut. The reason it takes forever to get the air out is because most folk foolishly try and fill / bleed all the loops at the same time with the manifolds on . That means the air gets to the manifold, can't be ejected quick enough through a tiny bleed point, so guess where it goes? Back into ALL the loops and round and round we go. To fill / bleed UFH loops you simply connect a hose from the mains to one manifold drain point, and then another hose from the other manifold drain point going to a drain and then purge each loop one at a time. Takes literally seconds that way. Just close the manual actuator caps that comes on each one, ( factory fitted usually ), leaving the first one open. Run the hose into the one loop and go watch the end of the other hose. By the time you get to it you'll have probably already purged 100% of the air out. Repeat closing / opening accordingly. A 10 port manifold should be bled in 15-20 mins max. Shut all the drain taps, replace the blank covers provided and open the automatic air vent that's provided and go get some beer. Bingo bango.

Excellent ! Nowt better than a bit of barter. My spark has done me a second fix and I'm tiling his floor (kitchen utility and cloak) next week. ? Works out day for day up to the cloak so he's got to pay for that.

Being honest, how do the long walls look, particularly any which get varying sweeps of natural light through the day ?

Yes. Linky.

Yup. It's too cheap NOT to do it. .

Hence the prices then. Can you bite the bullet for the bedrooms for now? Skim is so much better.

If they're fitted a good 25mm or so past where the architrave ends then how the hell will you see any cracks? Stop beads are designed to be used around existing window reveals and new knock throughs etc so although they do crack and need a bit of after care where it's seen, here they'd be perfect and I'd go for them tbh. They're cheap, you can fit them yourself in minutes, and you'll get a consistent finish all round. Plasteres are good at smooth, but not so good at flat / level imho. When you rest a dead straight bit of arc down each point you'll deffo get undulations without a bead. Plasters always tend to put too much at the bottom and less in the middle as it's easier to trowel up when not bent over. I've lost count of how many plasterer have done this for me and I've had to chip away to get the timber work on plumb / flat. .

I'd rather skim than tape tbh, but I guess it's down to local availability and how much they 'can' charge . How many plastering firms / guys are around you ? Any sites locally using a spread ? Maybe you could pinch one for a weekend here / there on hobble rates if your cheeky like me.

White is usually the norm TBH. Remember, less is more

Buy them first . Usually 4 cores.

You should define the area and tile up to it, flat square and level. That way you have a perimeter as a target and something to rest a batten on to get your 'target'. Youll regret doing it ( trying to do it ) the other way around imo. That way you can possibly work to factory edges of the floor tiles which is what I always try to aim for.

You create those final crisp straight lines with the tiles, not the screed . Tile the 'runway' strip first and leave to dry, and then do the wings. Your only working between two fixed points at any one time then. I assume you've worked out that you need the main, flat floor all down first yea?

I'd say more to let them know how many lifts / elevations they'd put up so they know if any is missing ? A big job I was on shut down over Xmas and when we returned the scaffolders had been and collected over 2/3's of the scaffolding. Only they hadn't... Neigbours said a big wagon reversed up the drive in the middle of the day, stripped it all down, banging and clanging shouting etc, bold as brass, and nicked the bloody lot. Left the crap / difficult bits behind.

Wet concerte is denser Shirley? So therefore should be heavier. Not sure about when their both dry though, can't be much in it.

I read that somewhere too but couldn't remember if it was 60 or 80. No need to ask people to jump on the scales before pooping , but tbh, if your 62 stone then by the time you've bailed out you'll probably be back down to 61 again. Wheres my granola ?

Bond down every time for me, I almost never use any form of mechanical fixing for WC pans. I push the pan back into place and mask all the way round with PVC electrical tape, then lift the pan from the inside throat and get 2 plastics wedges / packers in, one each side, to elevate it slightly. Then squeeze a bead of clear CT1 under and right round. Drop the pan into the CT1 and clear of the displaced excess goop with baby wipes. Use loads of them and keep going until you can't see any goop. Peel the masking tape up and go around one last time with the wipes. Push the pan back against the wall and make sure it's centre and square. Check for any exposed goop one last time and then leave well alone for 24hours. I don't ever bond the backs of the pans against the vertical / wall as its just not necessary. Simply apply a cosmetic bead of silicone across the back and down the two sides for gap filling and aesthetics only. A lot easier to get the pan back out if you haven't bonded it back as well as down .