Nickfromwales

Don't over do it.

Jesus. Good luck pal

@Construction Channel Ed, totally agree with losing the rodding point as that shower trap is what I referred to as 'open', so iechyd da! What I would do though is swap it to the other run so you can rod as far as the bath tee. I think you suggested that above ? Access from the basin end really isn't necessary imo, but please do use 40mm pipe from the 50mm bath tee all the way to the bend that faces the basin trap. Into that bend you fit a 40x30mm internal reducer and then the only 32mm waste pipe is that short horizontal bit to the trap. Fit and forget. The fitting on the shower traps are always a pita. It offsets down so you don't have the knuckle of the fitting touching the underside of the floor covering which levels with the flange. You need a 40x50mm compression reducer to go on that trap and do away with the bit you show. That should work just fine, or you may need to use 1x 40mm 45 and then an M&F ( street ) 45 to get the offset back. Rodding through two 45's is no problem at all. This straight off the trap, and then this to correct back to straight and turn the lot to give whatever offset you need. Or if you want to get to solvent quicker before you bump up to 50mm, put the male side of this into the compression 45 and then a piece of 40mm waste, then a 40x50 offset reducer into a 50mm coupler and away to the stack. Hard to say from the pics if you'll need the offset or not tbh.

To add, you need BR involvement and sign-off to give the work any recognisable value too. Any new works may be questioned by a potential future buyer, and if they catch a whiff of you DIY'ing the works they'll either ask for it to be discounted from the valuation or covered by indemnity. Start as you mean to go on.

Can we stick to the facts only please

I still think, even with an acceptable degradation ( whether it be purely by cycle, or both cycle and life combined ), the degradation / lifecycle is still very economical vs the available alternatives. No multiple components failure like you suffer with gas boilers, or maintenance, other than a failure of the immersion to deal with so 'cheap motoring' AFAIC. Add to that no flue / ducting to outside etc etc, plus with the 3rd gen theres no integral pumps / additional wet plate heat exchangers / flow switches / TMV's / control wiring etc etc there's very little to go wrong. These are very impressive bits of kit

That could be a decider

The 20mm worktops are bloody flimsy imo ( laminate over chipboard ). Just fitted my mates as a favour and not great for the 960mm brekky bar tbh. Ok if supported by units but a bridge to far if unsupported imo. Had to bond 5mm SS plates to the underside with Sikaflex to beef the brekky bar up. A PITA. Looked nice though. My only concern with the 12,5mm stuff is how do you do the joints in the corners?

What about close-cutting shy first with a circular so the router is only taking off 1-2mm passes at a time to clean up?

Nothing better than looking for your mobile, whilst talking on it. Or my other favourite which is looking for my van keys whilst holding them and getting irate with people who then say "They're in your hand you dopy tw*t!" 44 yesterday, so it could be age related

You been smoking crack ( again ) fella ? Deffo izzy whizzy. Sootys a legend.

We have an über-quick mechanism for dealing with that trust me. I call it the Paul Daniels button. Makes anything vanish right before your very eyes.

Why is the doorway set into the sloped part of the wall? WC where the basin is so your sat under the slope, door where the WC is ( still to entrance hall not room ) and basin opposite the WC. Pocket door if you can get away with it. In the first pic, id go for slight 45 degree chamfers on the walls instead of the sharp corners. Will soften that choke point nicely for pennies and make the room look more spacious.

A simple map from the Bristan site

Yup lol. Been stood there screaming at it for 5 mins and then realise im trying to send the screws in anti-clockwise

@Fredd See the patio slabs in that pic? How much compo do you think it took to lay those ? They're huge !

Don't let @Onoff see that ! He'll be off making the knife and fork to go with it.

Think of the overtime for all the £££ spent on mastic, foam and tape.

You take that back this minute !!!!!!!!! Its medium grade ok

Nothing wrong with a bit of sport

You may want it for the roots

I'm assuming he means £40k over time, not for a single build ? @Fredd, your turn.

We are trying my old mukka .

My screeder lays floors for me and I can paint them green and rack up a game of snooker. I wouldn't pay him if that wasn't delivered. If your paying a guy to concrete the floor for you and it's not level then your using the wrong guy. Simple. That's ok. You've just chucked yourself in at the deep end I'm afraid. . A forum full of house building builders would have given you an easier ride, but folk here are mostly building a dream home, or even their 5th or 6th dream home, so it's just better that you sooner understand this particular forum, and the way members HERE are building, before leaping in off the high spring board . Fwiw, I'd never buy a chuck-me-up house off a small builder as I'll know they're just about the profit and my money would be better spent elsewhere.

@Fredd I think you should stop making such random and deeply unfounded comments in order to be taken seriously. . @JSHarris's "slab" is a passive raft on 300mm of eps. Your preferred method using block and beam has a ventilated cold underside so is inherantly flawed from birth, yet you seem to champion it. . I sincerely hope you take some time out to read up on the threads / members blogs here and then maybe you can come back with some educated comments. Assuming ( incorrectly ) what people have done here is quite disrespectful in my opinion, and a little embarrassing for you I'm afraid, so please only refer to individual cases if your able to state the FACTS that reinforce what you write here. I suggest a new approach for you. Ask a member what the spec of their build is, rather than assume that they made "a wrong choice", as many who have built here have had the opportunity to examine different build methods, choose from real life case studies, and have had years to decide accordingly. Youll find members and staff here very patient and accommodating, but it won't last for long if you keep making such assumptions. FYI the member who has in your opinion chosen the wrong floor method is one member who's house would be overheated by said hairdryer, and the build was delivered with guarantees of how the house would be delivered to the client. Guaranteed airtightness to 0.6 ach, and thermal qualities that would make a chuck-me up brick / block colander look like Swiss cheese. I just don't think you'll sell your POV here I'm afraid, as your preaching the wrong sermon in the wrong church me thinks.