Nickfromwales

Just pulled up 15 / 20 year old Karndean in a kitchen diner knock through and it was still looking exceptionally good for its age and the fact it was in a high traffic / adverse environment. I think it's naturally warmer underfoot too, plus offers some impact sound absorption. The Amtico I saw was still too commercial - hospital feel / look for my liking.

Ring them and arrange your own courier?

The "brown" is UG ( underground ) stuff, so if you want to glue it you'll need to scratch it thoroughly with coarse sandpaper and clean with pipe cleaner. Then use solvent cement which comes in a metal toothpaste tube, commonly referred to as gap filler which is the bigger brother of the normal waste pipe solvent weld.

That run with the brown branch id have done differently tbh. The far left where the AAV is should be held up tight to the floor with all round patent band and the far right packed down as low as it could go before passing the bottom of the joist. If there was a reason for not being able to get more of a fall, I'd have out a Y branch for the WC, rectified to vertical with a single socket 45o bend, so things are already heading in the right direction. A regular branch isn't meant to be on a horizontal run, particularly when taking a WC and more so when in a near flat fall. Solids will be going left and right with that arrangement, and as you don't have any water coming down past it, just the AAV, I'd do it differently. Also, I'd be suprised if the BCO doesn't pull you over using UG fittings above ground. I've done it in the past, but made sure they were hidden or covered up before any inspections

You should only balance when every loop / actuator is fully open. I'm guessing you know that.

Yup. Can be done if you've got a good local glass supplier ( who can toughen the glass ).

I got fully floating bofolds ( shown in that pic I posted where the shower is 45'vd into the corner and a bifold either side which close to make the enclosure ) from Novalleni ( spelling could be e not a ). Rise and fall hinges so they stay folded or fall from 45o to the open position and pretty much stay there.

The flow gauges don't usually turn out more than 2 revolutions . Any more than that and your off to Wellies R Us ?

? If you find your shoulders start to ache and your backs getting stiffer by the minute, "your doing it right" Crack on !

So it's safe to assume there is no parge begind the wall plates or end joists ? Eg a lot of unsealed blockwork and junctions that it'll be damn near impossible to get to. . Have you already had the blower test done ? You may be better off just foaming behind each of the osb sheets or buy the green air tight osb and use that. The foam needs to be continuous around the very edge of each sheet so nowt can get through. Use foam then between the block work and the end joists prior to plasterboarding the ceiling. Foam and a rubber tube to inject it where it's needed will be your friend here I think vs any spray product.

Haven't ever seen that before TBH. Is it part of the locking mechanism or is it deffo altering the position of the pin ? If the latter, changed them all to the fully recessed position and try again. Can you post a link / Google the manufacturers blurb?

Mmmmmmm......sausage. ?

Possibly, but if you turn on one zone at a time then then 100% of the pump potential is sent to that zone so any air may get forced through a bit more effectively. Do you have flow gauges on each loop ? With everything open the pump potential is divided .

Agreed. I can't see how spraying alone would deal with any complex junctions or 'shoddy' bits. They'd need to be either caulked or taped first, or better if done after an initial spray ( a first spray so you get a good surface to tape to, if its block for eg ).

Switch all of the stats off bar the kitchen and see what gets / stays warm. That's the quickest way. Switching everything on wont show divisibility / correct allocation . Once that's done switch the stats on one at a time as heating a zone that's cold is the quickest way to see what's what IMO. Edit : do you have a digital laser thermometer ?

Just remove and refit the actuator head / s for the kitchen as sometimes if not fitted / seated properly ( fully down ) they could allow very slight flow. You don't need much flow to get detectable heat in a well insulated slab BUT if there are two actuators and two loops in there I'd say there's more to it, like controls / programming etc.

They have to be double socket ( double seal ) to slip, and they're as reliable as a Volkswagen .

Pics would help readers understand the alterations. . Thanks.

It really couldn't be easier to plumb it yourself in Hepworth pushfit pipe. Whats the worry with the long runs? Talking to a plumber won't make them shorter, and the solution is a simple HR pump and loop. Heating is just two pipes, flow and return, and can be Hepworth too. Flow and return from the boiler to the TS and connect hot and cold to it, then order it with whatever space heating tappings you need and connect to those accordingly. ?

+1 Ask the questions here and crack on. Can you solder copper?

If it's a rented property then you really need the paper trail. If the worst happened and there was a fire then you'd be asked who fitted it. Or you can look the other way and we'll talk you through it. Easy job if you've got basic elastictrickery skills.

The controller needs to be "zero volt switching" so basically any controller that doesn't give out 230v. The one linked seems to be fine but is a brand I don't know of and have ever fitted. Tbh if this is to be a simple to use control for others to use ( grasp ) then I'd go for a wired timeclock at the boiler and a dumb wireless wall stat as the programmable stats are completely dependant on being correctly programmed and that being maintained. They do feature a temporary or permanent manual override but if there is no single user or system caretaker then simplifying this would be advisable IMO.

The worst that can happen is the pressure will go higher than 3 bar and the PRV will open. Tbh, if it hasn't already done so then it may be the static mains pressure is lower and therefore within the operating tolerance of the PRV. Just take wellies with you on Monday in case

Simple TBH. If there is no need for 110mm pipe to be passing the toilet then cut the soil pipe where the wc is to connect and use a soil bend and go straight up into the pan connector. Use a Boss socket to join the bend and the soil together and then use the bosses to reconnect the sink and shower. ? As the soil is below the floor, there's nothing stopping you teeing the sink and shower into one 40mm run and use a single boss ( one will be 'open' and the other two should be 'blind' ) so no need to drill the second boss eye out . For belt and braces change the basin trap to an anti-vacuum / air admittance type like this to give some sort of air break. Ideally the bosses should be direct to the stack if its falling vertically ( to mitigate against any vacuum issues created when the slug of flushing water drops down to ground fooor ) as you don't say if there's is an existing 110mm air admittance 'Durgo' valve on the end of this run or not.