Nickfromwales

The cables should be vertical or horizontal from each outlet ?

Enough of this crazy bottle talk Remember this guy off EB? Hotun

Late to this one sorry. A bit tricky to get high capacity / high flow DHW without some serious grunt. A large TS will deliver 20+ Lpm, and, if boltsrered by a whopper of a gas system boiler, will provide that nigh-on constantly. An UVC will do the same but would have to be sized bigger as you can't hear an UVC as quickly as you can heat a TS. I fitted a 440L TS for a customer and complimented it with a 300L cold mains accumulator. I had 2 showers running flat out, plus plenty enough DHW flow to open both the kitchen sink hot and the cloakroom hot tap, all simultaneously. That flow drops off as the accumulator depletes so sizing both accordingly is an important design consideration. "You get what you pay for" etc etc. Forget a combi, that's obviously not even a consideration, and if your stuck for space you could go the SA route, but they're a pretty penny compared to a TS. You can now, I believe, ask @AndyT for prices for a dual port SA setup that would be comparable to the above. The dual port have two separate heat exchangers so one in for primary heating flow / return, and another for potable ( DHW ) production. The price premium is significant, but with no G3 consideration and time / labour expended on routine maintenance ( draining down to check the EV pre-charge which should be done every 6 months ) you'd have paid for one in ~ 10 - 12 years which is a good pay-back IMO. Decisions, decisions

I rely on seeing and feeling the 4 corners when tiling so I don't see them featuring on my jobs TBH. That's the way I know when the adhesive has set that all my grout lines and intersections are laser straight.

300mm deep and a turf spade wide will suffice for an MDPE. It can go uphill - downhill - whatever. Just drop to manhole level AT the manhole.

As long as it isn't a chimney eg vented to atmosphere by exiting the roof from the inside of the dwelling, then I'd really not ? the bed over it TBH. Insulate the soil pipe with some self-adhesive armaflex and worry about world peace instead . As long as you have a SVP to atmosphere elsewhere on the sewerage network that leg can terminate into an AAV ( air admittance valve ) so there will be no cold 'draw' so very little thermal impact.

You need to get the mix spot on to use those too. Do they still allow a 2mm gap or is the plastic 'bar' bigger / wider ?

So this is a 'communal perimeter' we're discussing here ?

....dictated by access and H&S stipulation are they not? Heras fencing is the norm, and a hedge only really defines the boundary rather than provide protection, ( the main consideration ), with security really a side effect of having to fit it for protection. H&S don't care if you get burgled .

Depends if the tiles are completely true If not then you need the human touch to fettle them in to give half n half to absorb any undulation from the centre of the tile to the corners, only really apparent on 600mm and above TBH.

@daiking Can you just drop a 25mm alkathene pipe in low enough to avoid ground frost ? You could always fit a 'pee only' Saniflow unit later on then when funds allow? Edit : It may have to be 32mm MDPE ( aka Alkathene ) or an insulated 22mm speedfit pipe to get the same internal bore as the typical 21.5mm discharge pipe. Still cheap as chips to get you future proofed. .

I do the same with a grout float but I only ever do that on sheets of mosaic to get them smooth as a baby's bum.

No need to box and insulate imo. Ive been plumbing for a quarter century and have never seen it done once. Having long external runs is 100% permissible, and apart from aesthetics, is quite common practice.

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1,000,000-1 odds . I'll shut my mouth.

Hundreds of thousands, if not millions of uk homes have CWS tanks in the attic which haven't leaked for 20/30/40+ years ! "If it ain't broke" and all that .

Hi and welcome. Your plans look really interesting and I really like the mono -pitch roof. Your plans shows in a few different orientations, which ways south ? First observation is move the stairs to the mezzanine further back to get some head height as you hit the top step. . Ill add later re the plumbing / heating ?

Fyi. You can fit tanks in an attic and mitigate against leaks. You basically get a sheet of marine ply, make some 100x18mm pine up stands all round, and GRP it to make a giant drip tray. EDPM rubber membrane may be an easier DIY method. You then just run an oversized overflow pipe 32mm minimum to atmosphere ( roof eave etc ) from the drip tray.

A cold mains accumulator is the ideal solution here, or probably two of them to give you the 24hrs capacity requirement. They're passive, so no pumps and no electricity / electrical connection. I'm specifying this solution for a couple of clients with them residing in outdoor plant locations, suitably draught-proofed, and protected against frost. One of the major benefits is they are potable ( drinking quality water ) and comply for a whole of house solution, plus you'll have an artificially reinforced cold mains with phenomenal cold water flow rates to boot, so running multiple showers / other hot & cold outlets simultaneously etc will be a great side-effect of their integration. Storing water outside of the heated envelope is preferential so when you open a cold tap, the water is cold. Frost mitigation for the outside plant location would be via a simple couple-of-hundred watts of tubular electric heater via a frost stat. A pair of 500L accumulators would get you through a 48hr period with ease if your disciplined with your water consumption in the emergency times. Consider a large CWS ( coffin ) tank and running the WC's off gravity, but RWH systems would need to treat the water most likely as flushing loos with it would release small amounts of aerosol spray into the immediate surroundings. Best to check on that as I'm not fluent in that type of system. Id spend the money on accumulators and ditch the RWH other than for watering the garden. I would think twice about the cost / complexity of bringing that water into the dwelling.

A way to cheat out of lots of fixings with the cold feed going 'up and over' is to pull a 6mm catenary wire over first, spanning the big members / beams, and tighten it off with a Gripple. Secure the loose tail with a couple of U clamps and don't over tighten. Then you can zip-tie the pipe at 300mm intervals, cheaper and quicker imo. EDIT : Just looking at the picture, if your going alongside one of those big support beams eg left to right, stick with the Girder clamps

@Ferdinand Run a 22mm Hepworth pipe up and over with basic girder clamps and just lag it. Cover with white duct tape for aesthetics Do that with a 100m length if a 50m isn't enough. No joints on the main run is a no brainer. 2-man manageable without issue. As you should have 3 phase available, you'll need to provision to have a new 3-phase board to run the electric showers and water heater. Size the water heater accordingly with either a 15litre instant blended down to 50oC flow or if preferred just fit a Sunamp unit so you have no valves / complexity / discharge pipework to outside / annual inspection and known maintenance. SA = Fit and forget. . For showers, forget the accumulator and go for a single 50gal break tank, or two smaller 25gal coffin tanks if space is tight. Use these on a 22mm pipe 'common rail' reducing to 15mm to supply each one and use Pumped Electric showers. Instant high performance and they suck the water out of the gravity / break tanks. The water heater / WC / kitchen / utility can then run completely unaffected by the bulk water consumption of the showers. Triton T80Si These have integral run time limiters for 8-10-12 min showers or around those times afaic remember so members can't shower forever and run the break tanks dry. Also preserves water in the event that somebody leaves a shower running. They'll automatically shut off after the preset timer ( user definable jumper pins are located inside the shower to select duration ). 8.5kw is plenty but they are available in 9.5kw too iirc.

I just use nice big screws into a thick bit of timber. Between tightening the 3 screws a bit at a time, after they initially bite up tight, you can pull left / right and up. Easy to get it spot on with just a decent hand held screwdriver.

If its the one above, that crock of crap isn't mine

Which picture amigo?

End feed, remember