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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    @AliG I like the way the light comes off that chandelier, you know, in a manly way of course. Keeps reminding you that spotlights are a second option.
  2. Nickfromwales
    Rainwater stuff is push together, you can glue if you really wanted to but if supported and clipped properly / sufficiently then shouldn't need it. Have the IC at the very end of the 4' ( 110mm ) run, then at the downpipes end you want a correctly coloured ( lets say black for eg, to match the colour scheme on show ) 110mm 90o bend to take you from horizontal to vertical, then an straight inspection coupling, and then a rainwater to 110mm connector. You can then rod from the downpipes side to clear obstructions there, and rod the 4" horizontal from the IC. You could do away with the IC the other end if you can get another 110mm inspection branch / coupling at the end of the run where it changes direction.
  3. Nickfromwales
    Wet board adhesive may promote early corrosion of the metal, even though it's galv. Foam for me
  4. Nickfromwales
    @BuildHub blog please.
  5. Nickfromwales
    Only ever going to be occupied by 2? In fairness I think they've allowed for the capacity of the house rather than your needs. What's the max ventilation and heat loss per day for -10oC outside ?
  6. Nickfromwales
    Is the condensate neutral? No issue with just a drip pipe to outside ?
  7. Nickfromwales
    Agree, that's a bargain. A shitty in-room one second hand was coming in at around £150 for anything half decent. Then you've got to vent the hot waste air to outside. Between 1 and 1.2kW electrical consumption whether heating or cooling. Thats a no brainer. Would there be an issue running this in a small attic room ? Super dry air etc ? I assume the fan speed is controllable to match the requirements of the room.
  8. Nickfromwales
    Sunamp are, I believe, going to release a unit with an integral mini heat pump which stores 'cold' rather than hot heat energy. I'm currently awaiting some further detail so I can recommend / integrate them, but if you've got PV and no ability to trench for geothermal loops or have an ASHP ( which I think is exactly @divorcingjack's situation ) then this seems a good product to look at. Basically when the suns shining your cooling, but the same can be said about a split air con unit. The only benefit of wet cooling via the UFH is no breeze and no stale air. Also I'm not sure about how MVHR and air con would live together. @JSHarris, could the air con unit feed to a heat exchanger in the MVHR ductwork as a pre / post cooler ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    How much PV ?
  10. Nickfromwales
    Or a swept / long radius bend better again .
  11. Nickfromwales
    I run a recycling centre for unwanted ales. Just doing my bit for the community
  12. Nickfromwales
    Go add some tags up top then
  13. Nickfromwales
    KISS. Touch the rad. Can you keep your hand on it without it being uncomfortable. Turn your hand over and do the same with the sensitive part of your skin on your wrist / forearm. Thats what a child would feel. Adjust accordingly. Pub.
  14. Nickfromwales
    30oC ?
  15. Nickfromwales
    Down to 50p a metre, so how much cheaper do you want than that?
  16. Nickfromwales
    @epsilonGreedy Start a new thread for the boiler / heating / DHW and that'll keep the this one focussed on the electricals
  17. Nickfromwales
    It sounded like resistance hence my comment about the immediate pipework from the WC. Good that you found that sooner than later
  18. Nickfromwales
    Keep the best til last.....Pedigree of course. Oh and you probably kinked that pipe at the end to get a round some original timber work or such other obstruction?
  19. Nickfromwales
    Hi, and welcome. Never too late to hop on board mate, more the merrier . All sounds "within acceptable tolerances", but if ever just driving the UFH with the rads off ( upstairs at temp ) then the boiler will struggle to maintain a low enough output to match the heat required by the UFH when that's idling too. A buffer tank would sort that and keep the boiler in the premium condensing range too. Yes it'll modulate, but not enough most likely, so will short-cycle a good bit when the house is up to, or nearly at the comfort temp. If having a WBS, I think I'd have gone for a thermal store and a boiler, but you sound like you've purchased the above already ?
  20. Nickfromwales
    I'm not GSR'd so I don't have the latest copies of the relevant documents, or any amendments thereof. A gas pipe can be surface mounted externally, exposed, but I'm not sure of current legislation in Engerland wrt burying it which may be different to Wales, so pointless me ringing my guy as the info may not be relevant to you. Time to get on't phone lad.
  21. Nickfromwales
    As BCO isn't involved after the gas meter, its all on the GSR'd fitters head. If they dont see depth and integrity of any aspect of the gas run, then they really should be refusing to connect gas to an already installed pipe. Its not like chucking an MDPE gas main in for the gas board, where they really dont care that much if they get to see it all or not, this is all one guys responsibility. Id have thought they'd be happy to witness the duct being backfilled with the pipe in it, if theyre invited to cap it and pressure ( drop / tightness ) test it as a purposeful visit, but it would be down to the GSR'd fitter tbh. Its them you need to ask not us.
  22. Nickfromwales
    May as well leave the stub wall TBH as a pillar will be wider, plus a pillar may need a footing if it's not a good thickness, reinforced, slab. That way you can fly the new pad over the stub and into the adjacent wall. Removng that stub may feck that wall right up if it's toothed in from one wall to the other too, thus knackering it up completely from a load bearing PoV.
  23. Nickfromwales
    Cheers for the pics. I recon your well into pillar territory there. You need the old '45 degree downward' rule applied where the piece of wall under the existing lintel ( opening not doorway one ) will want to push outward and splay that little stub of wall as it'll then have two lots of downward pressure at that one point. You may even be asked to expose the founds to check that stub wall ( to the left of the existing opening ) is sat on a true foundation. A house that size may just be a thick reinforced concrete raft.
  24. Nickfromwales
    ?. Poor woman. Remember......this is a thread about blogs .
  25. Nickfromwales
    Unless it's a video of depth, and then the back filling too, then no dice. Because this is post gas meter it's not down to the BCO, it's down to the fitter that signs the gas certificate. It's not like burying the gas main.
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