Nickfromwales

I'd just chuck in clean 6mm chippings.

I prefer to pour something 'pissy' when patching in. A patching screed doesn't creep and key in anywhere near as good without a load of prep and priming etc. £20. Mix - pour - forget. .

Any 2-part TBH, Ultra or Ardex. Ardex is expensive so try and find a BM that stocks the Ultra if you can as it's prob half the price and I can't tell them apart once laid. Ultra 2-part.

2-part self leveller for the deficit. If the old tiles are sound then crack on. If there's any hint of movement then chuck a Ditra mat over it or it's a suicide mission.

I was joking

Ah, the good old days lol.

I'm a big fan of that. Makes life sooo much easier when plasterboarding, especially if the posi's are at 600mm centres and not perfectly square. Counter batten at 400mm centres and jobs a good-un.....if you've got enough head height.

PS, thanks for the £25 commission I get every time my names mentioned You'll see it next to the VAT.

@epsilonGreedy I take it you know a combi cannot provide heating and hot water at the same time? Eg they divert between either but never do both.

I don't know how many pages that lot went on for but could just about bring myself to complete page one. What a bunch of nuggets. One guy talking a 'bit' of sense and another dismissing an UVC because they explode and will blow up a car garage. WTF. If you do as those geniuses suggest then you'll probably half the life of the combi. Your warranty would instantly be voided, unless your happy to de-plumb everything every time you need to have it fixed again, and your legionaries risk would be off the chart. The pump speed ( litres per minute circulation rate ) would have to be perfect in order to get very hot water circulating. If the speed was too high then the water would never get hot, instead it would be warm, unless it's a beast of a combi. Every time the pipework cooled down you'd get another DHW 'pulse' which would shut down the general heating, activate the diverter switch, reignite the flame and run flat out until the pipe stat was satisfied, probably 10mins cooling and a 2 minute burn ( pulse ) for every cycle. The extra boiler labouring and subsequent fatigue would be ridiculous. Not even a starter afaic. IF you could access all of the hot and hot return pipework and lag the ? out of it you may halve the pulse rate and then you'll only take around 25% of the boiler life away. Large property with long runs to multiple locations = UVC ( the non exploding ones, don't forget that important detail ) plus a hot return circuit and dedicated pump with a system boiler. Not one of them mentioned the 22mm hot water pipework that would be in place with a copper cylinder install, which they would connect the combi too, so no difference in time of hot water to outlet other than the initial fire and warm up. I think 'that' screwfix community should be in padded cells . Combi boiler for hot return? NO.

Happy days. Did you mention the forum ?

Two showers at max wallop in a regular dwelling would prob use 9-10Lpm max, so forget anything that needs to generate 48Lpm as that's a fire hydrant. You will get two ADEQUATE simultaneous showers at around 8Lpm from the 938, and one I fitted with my mate a while back did so, 8 & 8 respectively from a max 16Lpm cold supply ( which is good btw ). Don't expect to be in there for 20 mins each though. You have to be realistic. If you have 10bar available and you really want high flow showers to run together then it would have to be a 250-300L TS with a 28mm 46kw DHW instant coil inside it. You will need a pressure reducing valve to bring the supply under control, say set to 4 bar, but that should still give sufficient cold water volume to run two 10Lpm showers if, as I expect with such high pressure, you'll also have in excess of 20Lpm coming into the TS. Gas system boiler & TS may be best, and the TS is your buffer AND hot water tank so a '2 box' solution. Any pv you generate would go into it via 2 immersions ( which you could / would use if the boiler ever failed too ). Time to decide if one blasting shower is good enough, as the 938 ( or even the 838 regular combi / other large regular combi ) will do that, or if you definitely need to be able to run two hot bathing outlets at the same time. That's the decider.

Your not pulling plastic for the majority ?

Make the exhaust the shortest as it'll have the most moisture / humidity.

Prob screwys. You don't need much do you ?

Sorry. Thought most bath flexis would be to 3/4". So same fitting but 1/2 x 15mn. Can't get the staff.

3/4 x 15mm male "copper to iron" Link to example. Can be bent too or to 22mm

Do you mean along their length in addition to the end noggins ( dwangs ). ?

Yup, were special. . "It is, what it is"

And that's where the dream takes a nose-dive. . If you create a business plan based on 'potential' income, and no paid staff, it doesn't live too long Hence our current model, the one with 1100 + members, and growing

Or for the bathroom massive....bathroom porn.

OCD is what prevents us from being rich. Just be glad your not doing this for a living, as it's bloody hard to, trust me. I know a good few unscrupulous arseholes who are far better off than I am. Stick to your guns and take as long as you need. ?

You forgot to mention the side projects, and how much he's drunk to get this far. The guys a damn legend.

If the bits you did are right, then time well spent.