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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    This is the one ive got. Change the heads over for 1/2' or 3/4" tap connectors, but the head also move so it will do varying sizes too, like the back nuts. As you apply pressure it tightens its grip.
  2. Nickfromwales
    Just turn the taps off gently for now, and fit a small water hammer arrestor vessel ( EV ) when you go to mains.
  3. Nickfromwales
    It's not banging in the new stuff, it just sounds like it is. It'll be water hammer due to the new taps being 1/4 turn instead of 10 turn.
  4. Nickfromwales
    Forget the rapid set. Trust me, you'll spend more time panicking and cleaning out dead or dying mixes than tiling.
  5. Nickfromwales
    Do you still have access from underneath ?
  6. Nickfromwales
    Ground floor in screed or 1st floor on joists?
  7. Nickfromwales
    Yup. Just the tanking solution to bed the membrane in.
  8. Nickfromwales
    Seems like a nice, straightforward job ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    Make sure you clean the underside as sometimes they're contaminated with mould release agent and then nothing will stick to it. Make up a little dry sand / cement mix to use like an Ajax and scrub it in with a sponge. Do this directly before laying the tray. Use a flexible tile adhesive to bond the tray down. Any recognised make will be fine, but I purposely avoid Unibond as I've had a couple of bad experiences with that make refusing to go off. Whatever your bonding to, make sure you prime it with a flexible primer not PVA. Ultra is what I normally use. First coat 75% water and leave to dry ( 1 hour usually ) then 50/50 directly before putting the tray down so your more or less bonding to wet primer. If your feeling brave use rapid set, if not use standard set so you've got at least 30mins to adjust it. Lay with a 10 / 12mm notch trowel and stay about 50mm from where the seal of the trap hits the tray. The adhesive will squeeze over a bit leaving only an inch or so un-bonded which is fine as typically you'll not ever stand on / directly next to the waste anyhoo. If there is any serious undulation in the floor eg 0mm-6mm-0mm again then notch the underside of the tray as well. If no serious undulation then just notch the floor and 'butter' the underside of the tray, the idea being to bring two lots of wet adhesive together for a guaranteed full bond.
  10. Nickfromwales
    Is it a former or a tray ?
  11. Nickfromwales
    ?? "Haaaaaaaleeeeelllluuuuujyaaaaaaaaa" ?
  12. Nickfromwales
    Lol. Buy some wellies. You need to isolate the 3 pipes or your going to get very wet. Remember to isolate the electrical supply so you don't get electrocuted as well as drowned
  13. Nickfromwales
    Need to know as it'll be heating the system. If it's only a 24/28kw then we may end up going W-plan aka "DHW priority" where it doesn't do space heating and hot water together and any time the hot water needs topping up the system will divert from heating to do so by design. The hot out of the combi will just do the kitchen sink so it ( the moving hot water components etc ) stays active, with the heating output serving the rads and UVC via the W-plan arrangement. Controls can be discussed on a separate thread if you like, when a system is firmly decided upon.
  14. Nickfromwales
    Yup. The combi.... What size is it ?
  15. Nickfromwales
    No need. You run them all together and then see if they actually need restriction first. If you have the accumulator ( remembering that until we have the details of the main this is all hypothetical ) then you'll have a guaranteed X litres per minute flow, so restricting them will then leave some pressure / flow for other outlets, such as kitchen / utility / cloakroom WC etc etc. Look at it like having a nice V8 engine but only going at 30-40MPH, but you have the option to briefly open the throttle a bit more when needed.
  16. Nickfromwales
    Just fit one of these onto the end of each shower hose, then the handset
  17. Nickfromwales
    The manifolds can be made to have as many outlets as you require. You would simply connect the electric shower ( yuk ) to an outlet of the cold manifold. Same for the basins / sinks / baths / showers. Simplicity itself, and you can make outlets live as the build progresses. If an item fails, you can just isolate that one outlet and leave the rest of the house working.
  18. Nickfromwales
  19. Nickfromwales
    The UVC is fed from the cold supply. The cold supply is connected to the accumulator, recharging and discharging accordingly. I'll post a diagram in a bit, easier that way
  20. Nickfromwales
    Now that's progress !! What a difference .
  21. Nickfromwales
    Yup. Spin it around and it should be sorted.
  22. Nickfromwales
    B is typically DHW. As this should be a W-plan then DHW should be set to priority. The above is a mid-position for reference only, and the valve you ( should ) have should be the diverter version.
  23. Nickfromwales
    Yup. Electric showers are the anti-Christ.
  24. Nickfromwales
    Ok I'm confused too What secondary tank ? The UVC is cold MAINS fed, so... cold mains stopcock 22mm pipework to uvc multi-block. multi-block has a 3.5 bar PRedv to glean 3.5 bar feeds to both the cold and the hot so you get a "balanced" hot and cold network with both at the same potential. 22mm feed to the UVC from the multi-block 22mm feed to the cold outlets. ( except WC's ). WC's fed from cold main after the stopcock but before the PRedV. outside tap same White goods fed same Explain what you meant by second tank ? A tank is an open plastic box, an accumulator is a sealed giant coke can with a half inch thick rubber bladder inside that gets filled and pressurised to the same pressure as the mains.
  25. Nickfromwales
    You won't have a gravity cold water storage tank ( CWS ) so you can't have any pumps ANYWHERE . Why upgrade the mains? If an accumulator will suffice you don't need to do that and you may get away without a meter for longer. Do you know the mains pressure / flow rate ?
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