Nickfromwales

Watch the vid ?

A soil pipe up the outside wall would make it look 70 years old 200 years ago they just stuck their arse out the window didn't they ? "Bombs awayyyyy!"

One thing to add to this, is that the 780 is double compound, so flips right or left so full lengths of skirting dont have to be taken out and turned around to perform "opposite cut next" compound cuts. It also does something extremely handy, which is go up to 60 degrees one way and 50 degrees the other, so when cutting upright you can make a 92/93/94 etc degree corner where walls are out and are less than 90 degree. The compound goes a couple over 45 degrees so is uber useful that way too. Something ive not seen on any other saw ive used so far. And the shadow line is just amazing. It shows the material that is going to be removed by the blade so no guesswork or re-cuts to fine tune.

Live by the sword........die by the sword

No mention of the company / named individuals until the matter is 100% resolved.....not 99%, 100%

You need to observe their specifications for depth and separation. Water and gas can be in the same trench about 300mm apart, but most ive seen are just in there together. You need to lay them in dust / fines / 6mm gravel etc and have the correct identification tape above. Bending radius is basically just where you feel the pipe starting to fight you. Have a T and an upstand at a location for an outside tap, saves drilling through the house later.

Pay attention class One of these soldered onto a copper pipe. PTFE the 'mother of all outside taps' and tighten into the above creation. Slide on the lovely chrome cover first y'all . Use a suitably sized cheapo diamond tile hole saw to make the necessary recessed pocket ( I'd go for about 70mm penetration ) so the chrome is partly inside the brick. Then clear the hole of debris and soak it throughly. Insert the completed assembly and then get a foam can with a straw and pump the hole with foam. ( Take care to seal the tap end with some clear silicone first to stop the foam from spilling out ). Leave to set and reconnect the cold feed inside with a compression fitting NOT a soldered joint. An isolation valve inside makes frost shut down a doddle. The tap will easily twist out if you ever need to replace it. Simply PTFE the new one and wind it back in. Bingo bango. ?

Some fruit based drinks for the ladies :D.

It takes some doing to get a self-leveller wrong. .

Beer is the healer. "All hail the Ale". ???

You'll soon be minted with all the rent coming in so stop whinging

It'll be less noisy than the boiler so only an issue if the water pressure is crazy and you then get a bit of noise off the PRedV, other than that its reasonably quiet tbh. Ive done UVCs in residential bedrooms ( where the old copper cylinder was ) without complaint. Dont you have to fit a fire door anyway, with a smoke / heat detector?

Not enough to be a problem if there's a decent door with some brushed strips ( fit a fire door lining ). Is it HMO?

Make the first branch an access / inspection branch and have a rodding eye on top of the corner branch.

Nope Youve still got the products of arse combustion hitting the flat back of that branch Needs to be a Y branch with a 45 in it to send things round't bend lad. @bassanclans idea would work and you could use a corner branch to make things easier down the line.

There can't be such a void, surely?

£216 for an 8 hour day for a good plumber with good feedback, seems reasonable.

Tectite

No, but you'd be having 120mm concrete not 70mm screed layer Im all for the proposed approach by others above, as in ditch the concrete subfloor and have the concrete as your top layer over insulation. The way its proposed in the OP is archaic and id rather have more insulation than concrete in my given floor construction ( and given depth ). Yes, do the insulation yourself, but the sand blinding layer need to be spot on flat as that'll leave voids under the insulation otherwise. Id recommend : MOT1 then whack that flat, then sand blind, then 25mm of EPS as a sacrificial layer to protect the DPM, then DPM, then insulation, then light gauge membrane, then 120mm reinforced concrete floor, ( including mesh and UFH pipes as required ), then your chosen floor covering including any surface prep required.

He's been in touch to say he's busy with some personal matters and will be back soon to empty his notification inbox which will now probably need 50gb of additional site storage

My initial thoughts tbh. It would be like finding the one blown xmas tree bulb.

These systems make me concerned about the number of individual units and connections per roof. Id want some feedback and reassurances through warranty etc before fitting such a system but TBH I've not looked close enough yet to comment with any merit. Similar sized PV arrays can be sourced and fitted far cheaper but with the obvious impact on the eye. @JSHarris's roof looks more than acceptable to me, and iirc he has had visitors call to the house and ask why he never went with solar PV....only for him to explain that they're actually staring right at it !

It would still be £50k though. Wow. I'd want some strong figures for payback vs lifetime for that capital outlay. ?

NOTE : "Size" as in prime and seal a surface to mitigate against a dry / powdery or friable surface, eg to ensure adhesion of the following product/s.

Just size it so the tanking doesn't peel off like a latex glove.