Nickfromwales

That's my boy. . Ill add more in a bit ?

Asking a spark to wire 3 lights isn't quite a blank cheque, let's be honest. If they take a day to do the outside work then your looking at their day rate. If they take a day just to fit the 3 lights then start asking questions. Have you asked for a quote for the work yet ?

They'd both need a cold main each Every pressurised water heater is cold mains dependant. No cold flow in = no hot flow out. Simples. You need to throw money at this, and there are a few ways to spend it. First:- How many showers are there now? When do they get used ? You charge for energy in a HMO monthly rental fee anyway, so how much excess consumption are you looking to prevent? Shortesr route :- You can put a 4-500L UVC in and fit a 500L cold mains accumulator to reinforce the hot and cold system and run cheap mixer showers. Job done. No option for timers etc so tough titties for going cheap. Timed route :- Get 3-phase in from the street to the meter location. Min £1800-£2k with you digging the hoolio. Fit £400 pumped electric showers ( 5 x £400 = £2k ) which need gravity cold water tanks and plumbing to each shower to drink from ( £1k ). Subsequent additional internal wiring to get fuseboards done and get juice to each isolator & shower location ( £2k -£2.5k most prob ). Does have integral run timers for 10 / 15 / 20 min duration before shutdown. Cost of energy youll save vs payback = waste of time IMO. What is there now? Is this a new system from scratch ? INPUT !!!!

Not really because when the 2nd or 3rd shower is used the low ( available ) incoming cold water pressure will render them useless, either elecric or thermostatic mixer, both are cold mains dependant. No easy way out here I'm afraid.

By luck, that everyone isn't going to shower at exactly the same time. Plus, they don't do a new install from scratch, instead just adding showers willy-nilly hoping to get away with it. Ive stayed at plenty where the electric has tripped when I turned the shower on, so it's down to luck afaic. Your designing a system to suit, from scratch, so, if it's elecric based, your only option unless you change the UVC to a 4-500L ( >500 is commercial too so whole new can of worms there ) is to get the electricity supply upgraded.

I'm working on it. What electric supply do you have ? 5 showers simultaneously is a big ask. Tank fed elecric showers were the weapon of choice the last time I came up against such a request but with cooking on electric too they had to get another phase brought in from the electric board. Letting them fight over 5 standard electric showers would be the norm but to design a system with 5 showers will need the electrics notifying and signing off. Even with diversity you won't get all that one one phase. This is going to cost a good few £££ so best work out if you want to get on this rollercoaster.

Grouting is the bit some don't do very well. Its essential for a good, solid block and beam floor Imo.

I've always hated the unfinished look of the undersides of wall / bridging units, particularly when the kitchens I've fitted have had polished ( mirror ) granite or marble, and worse when the reflection is fortified by under cabinet lighting. That kitchen looks crisp and sharp. If you made more of those oak furniture items, you could sell them no problem. They look like a lot of effort went into them. I'd have kept them too. Your a fraud though, as your snagging list is just too short

Once you've laid the blocks and 'grouted' they're going nowhere. Just remove any obvious snots / points of the aggregate in the concrete so the beams sit as snug as possible and away to go.

Just a thought. Give the lights to the sparky and say "let me know when your done so I can pay you" ?

Houston, we have ignition.

Would make life a LOT easier if you can. Could you have the JBs on the back of the walls rear facing? Or are they going to end up covered?

Hi and welcome Theres a wealth of info here, just take the time to search and read, and dont worry about resurrecting older threads, its all good

It would be easier tbh, but not by much. Do you have room to fit conduit boxes? One of these with the glands made off however easiest, and the one remaining outlet gets a regular cable entry gland and a short piece of 0.75mm2 silicone or rubber flex ( HO5 or HO7 is cheap enough and bombproof ) to go into each light. TBH I doubt if you'll get the two SWA's into each of those lights, terminated and back out again reliably, whilst wrestling them in and out of the pockets youve left.

I gave someone similar advice today, just ask, the worst they can say is FO.

Factor in for aluminium spreader plates as the difference is chalk and cheese.

The only issue I see is the difference in slabs, whereas @readiescards slab is actually a thinner liquid screed iirc? These dont tend to hold heat for very long at all, and I doubt that chunking heat in would be as effective as a constant regulated flow would be.

You shouldn't be running around at all....it's massively overrated Havent you already got 2-port zone valve(s) fitted for the space heating and the uvc ? If so, just fit the Willis heater into the UFH return, at the manifold ( eg before any other parts of the system tee in / out of the UFH primary pipework ) and then tee the return back into the UFH flow via another 2-port ZV. That way the hot water created by the Willis heater travels the shortest distance and doesn't risk any nuisance tripping of the internal overheat stat as it'll never see the high flow temps of the boiler flow. The power to the immersion opens the Willis 2-port ZV and as the heating and hot water should be off at the controls ( by design, amended at the time of the Willis heater being installed so they don't have any conflict ) the UFH manifold pump will simply recirculate through the Willis, through the ZV, and back into the manifold blending valve. The casualty will be the stat in the Willis which will work a bit of overtime but their cheaper than shoplifting so not a real worry. I think the heating would consume what's being generated pretty much as it's being generated, or near as damnit, so a few quid for a Willis would be where I'd start the research. Buffer tank ( perhaps with DHW uplift coil ) would be my get out of jail card if the Willis wasn't conveying enough of the generated PV to space heating. Having DHW uplift in that buffer would give you oodles more DHW when space heating wasn't needed / significant. At this late stage I'd want the retrofit to be as least disruptive as I could make it, hence my first suggestion. I'd even just look at the ground floor and not the whole of house space heating as the ground floor slab should do most of the work anyhoo. ?

YES!!! You only need one bag FFS

+1

The ufh would surpass the output of the feature radiators. They'd become ornamental tbh, or you'd likely overheat the space the rads and ufh share. I need to know what type of UFH manifold you bought. If its Wunda, and from back in the day, then it may be one like this, noting the curly capillary wire from a TRV type control knob that is hidden behind the black cable, rather than one like this which is a true thermostatic blending valve with the rotary control knob inbuilt into the TMV.

A pic of the manifold please. Or a link to the exact one you have so I can look at options vs type etc

Dont shout, but have you considered just beefing the rads up? Connecting up the UFH is going to cost a bit and be quite disruptive. With no dedicated flow and return from the boiler to the UFH manifold location your options for control are also very limited. May be time to cut and run with just the few ££ of UFH pipe as the loss. Thoughts?

I may be up for selling mine. Has been a good gun, usual issues with cold gas but not a fault. Good used condition, and new batteries in the last year iirc or so. PM if interested.

Ok, so you have rads and ufh servicing the same space?