Nickfromwales

Just change it to a "waterless" trap and have done with it. Anythihg like the hepvo traps.

?????

The reason being? If you don't put it in id think your were nuts tbh. Its 100% the best option without a single doubt. Any waste run over 3m should be designed out, let alone a vertical drop down one floor level. No deal Noel. ?

Only for you, pal.

Excellent progress. I hope the plumber doesn't hold them up

I'd say yes if larger bore radial ductwork or radial ductwork with multiple room inlets are used. Eg higher flow rate, less noise, better dispersion. Where problematic I'd look at low level plenums. Would also lend itself to not having taller 'beefed up' joists aka ????

In a perfect world yes. The issue is where the nails are not driven completely home and there is insufficient glue at that point. The squeaky floors that folk recount are where the deck board moves up and down the shank of the nail. Thats why where @jack's better half screwed alongside each nail, the boards have pulled down tight to the joist top and the slight movement has been removed, ergo the squeak has gone . Glued and 5 screws per joist for me every single day of every week. The floor im doing now Sistered timbers either side for levelling ( retrofit on a turn of the century house ) then 22mm p5 D4 glued and screwed as stated. Then for tiling over, 6mm plywood laid into a bed of neat PVA ( 3mm notched spreader ) and screws in at 120mm centres on the X & Y axis. Customer says it's like the ground floor room now which is concrete. @vivienz as you will be having aluminium spreader plates for 1stfloor UFH, a mechanical fix will be mandatory as you'll have little to zero timber > glue > deck surface area to allow that method .

If its that noisy, and your as sure as you can be that its coming from the HP coil, then too damn right. What if it gets worse? The last time I had a warranty claim with telford, prob over 8 years ago ( and not really a fault more my blagging as the EV had gone and popped the UVC ) they dropped off the new one and waited to collect the old one.

Return it as faulty

Was this purchased new in the BH-Telford 'deal'? Ask for it to be replaced.

Yup. Smother them to death and then wipe any excess off with the cheapest baby wipes you can find, lots and lots of them. Buy a can of CT1 Multi-Solve spray to do the final spit n polish. Pump the bastard stuff in there and watch it ooze out of everything. You could seal a submarine with that stuff. Dont be tight or you'll be doing it again, and dont forget that when you put it in the next time I doubt you'll ever be able to get them out intact again so 'one shot' or 'deep shit'.......

So where is the CT1 ? Under the T against the top of the upstand?

Double 'r' folks, aint that right @Garry Oh, and welcome aboard !!

Nope, hes probably designing a machine that makes machines........in his spare time.

Do not cut into the structural 'silicone' if it forms part on the unit. Are you referring to a bead of silicone that the upstand is bonded to that was retrospectively applied by your delicate hand?

Not very fackin well

Has anyone actually given you detailed installation instructions?

I think this may be a candidate for just CT1'ing the shit out of it where the upstand meets the underside of the window.

I think this is the important piece of this particular 'puzzle'. For a smaller, or certainly a single storey dwelling, the heat loss is far more manageable and therefore requires much less effort to offset it. Could you just remind me of the exact makeup of your ground floor from the earth up please? I am very interested to hear that you find the stability and relationship between the floors / walls / windows all seem to be relatively indifferent, and I assume this is attributed to by not turning the 'heating' off for any extended periods, instead favouring long low heat influx via the Genevex. Also, do you have an indication of what temp the dwelling will naturally reside at if you shut the heating off ( eg what was it performing like prior to commissioning the heating and setting it to work ) ? Sorry to keep singling you out Peter, but yours is an interesting case study and examines the possibilities that lay away from the generic lines of thought. The case I referenced is manageable, with the points I've highlighted vs the crap that the MVHR supplier first spewed out without proper review, but does indeed require auxiliary emitters to achieve it. Me personally, I'd have gone for wet UFH in plates because thats the entire ground floor done and dusted, plus they require wet heating to supply the bloody feature rad and towel rads anyway so my thoughts are that in a bigger dwelling its a bit perverse. IMO MVHR should be left to be MVHR, with just the selective addition of maybe a 'geothermal' brine loop for some passive energy input. In a PH you're never that far away from comfortable and 'climate control' should remain within reasonable grasp ( if you haven't made a greenhouse with all the glazing that is ).

Sounds like drainage is your issue. Should you not be putting some kids no of permeable upstand around these and then paving to that? Possibly something that looks like a brickwork weep vent on its side ?

Post it up .

Squirt some expanding foam down first to take up the bulk of the gaps Leave that cure and then cut back flush, then the membrane and tape. @MikeSharp01, thats worthy of a gold star. Please proceed to the site cabin and affix one the the chart I sent you

You cant say that without then following up with a 'funny story'.

Yes, sorry I could have worded that differently. It was more about my underlying scepticism that the house may not be so comfortable ( perceived ) if the ambient was sat at a more typical 22oC which would be a full 2oC cooler. I just wonder what the differential between temp underfoot vs temps at head height when stood up would be like. I fear the difference would be significant as I cannot help repeating to myself that heat rises. With airflow being the key medium for delivering the heat I have reservations about the performance / ambient temps being equal and maintained in rooms which don't have emitters in them, but that is more specific to larger or 2-storey dwellings. I do know that the Genevex does rely on increased airflow rates to achieve their target room temps, how that translates into audible airflow I've no idea. Based on that I've suggested for my aforementioned project that the client instruct the MVHR installers to put low level inlets ( eg 2 per room in the opposite corners to the door, in the few problematic rooms that they say they cannot guarantee ever getting over 18.5oC, without auxiliary heating, even though other rooms will regularly achieve 20.5oC with the same shared 'flow' temps. The MVHR supplier suggested at-inlet inline duct heaters, but I think having a warm draught in my bedroom would be less than favourable. Admittedly there are few test cases for this type of installation and I appreciate all the feedback that @PeterStarck has provided. He may just get that pint ( of scotch ) after all.

Every time tbh. If however this is specific to a single story dwelling then the maths all change, and then fitting wet elsewhere and electric in the bathrooms becomes madness. To get more heat out in a particular space but with a unified flow temp you just put more pipe in per m2, so you can still get 'higher temps' eg a warmer bathroom compared to the living room by engineering it to be so, but also you could open the loop up and feed into a big towel rad from the same loop thus increasing the size of emitter in that one space. Re responsiveness, in comparison, if you have wet UFH in plates you'll not really be waiting that much longer TBH. You'll just be heating the P5 up first before the room, plus yopull have a wider choice of floor coverings as electric in bathrooms can only go under certain flooring types. If you want a thin covering you would have to bury the electric heating wire in at least 5mm of SL compound to comply with the manufacturers installation instructions. All depends if you plan to store PV derived energy for use at 'night' or whether you intend to use E10. If the latter then you may just want to go for electric for the bathrooms, or go wet everywhere with a Willis heater. You'll need to store DHW ( as instant electric heaters are dire on a good day ) so best to consider what your going to do for that and then expand from there. The SA for DHW only is a neat solution, so you could take a page out of @TerryE's book and go Willis + SA. Next chunkier option is Willis + UVC which would be slightly cheaper capital cost ( but suffer long term with G3 ). I guess a few questions need answering. Is the tree going bye-bye? Will you then fit PV? If not, and no, then the last option seems the right one, using whichever DHW solution best suits your remit.