Nickfromwales

Not actually seen it done, so another physics lesson for me then Just thought it may have alleviated the issue around the pipe. Bigger pump and suck it up there. No worries, I'll just sneak in later under the cover of darkness and delete my ramblings.....

Absolutely. That's the reason I am saying that you should cap the redundant one that will be left open ended after you remove the MB. Otherwise if the TS ones open and discharge the water will squirt out of that then open end. Comprendez vous?

Yup. Make sure you put a cap end on the discharge pipe so you don't get ant back-flow / draughts through it. OK. Just a bit OTT that's all. The lot should just fill of the one boiler loop? It's all one unified body of water

That's a LOT of 22mm pipework for that many radial runs too. Probably contributes to a lot of extra delay getting hot water out of the basins. ? Looks neat with him though Why 3 x filling loops?!?

3 Bar max is the cylinder rating NOT the coil rating You 100% do not need it, and it's strangling your flow rate which is why the shower is a bit crappy. Lose the MB, link through and give it a test run.

Why limited? I'm on about from a tank, not direct off the mains.

What about sucking the water up to the midway break tank instead of pumping up to it? And then pump up directly to the dwellings into 500L accumulators to buffer out your max demand. You can add as many of those as you like afterwards, which minimises capital expenditure and gives a full start to finish solution that's future proof. If umping its good to remember that you'll be into fitting accumulator of some capacity to smooth the delivery of pressurised water to the domestic outlets within the dwelling. I stay in a hotel where one of his drinking buddies fitted a pump direct to the hotel hot and cold network. Nothing.......nothing......tidal wave. Great. Suck water up with 2 double check NRV's in line to stop back flow, and that should deal with the pressure issues pumping from the ground. Depends how big a tank you can fit at the bottom of the run though, because if its big enough you will only need the treatment midway and you then pump in much smaller volumes from there to offset whats been drawn from the accumulators. Circular MDPE should be good against vacuum deficit / collapse so ok for suction ( AFAIK ).

Then you should NOT have that multi-block in there at all !! That was supplied by your plumber then, because Trevor doesn't send multi-blocks out with a TS as its not a HWC but an instantaneous hot water heater with a coil volume of less than 15L. The coil in the TS is good for north of 7 bar ( nominal ), and rated at 10 bar ( max ). Get rid of that and watch what happens to your flow rate to the shower Are you 100% sure the cold feeds to the same bathroom come from the balanced cold outlet of that control group ( multi-block ) ?

Do you have a TS or an UVC?

Pour a boiling kettle over the chrome sleeve immediately prior to trying to remove / unscrew them. They should only have been put on hand tight

Who fitted the TS? Did they use a pressure reducing valve at the cold water inlet, directly before it? Deffo a mixing fault due to missing / fouled NRV's. You could solve this possibly by fitting a whole of house PRedV at the incoming cold mains and set that to 3.5-4 bar. Sounds like you have good cold mains pressure adding to the problem. Getting the cartridges out may or may not allow you to solve the problem, if you cannot get NRV's in there / get to the ones that are U/S. Do you have the manufacturers literature for the basin and the shower units? It doesn't sound like they're balanced to me! Hence the question above about the PRedV. The cold water supply to the bathroom ( any mixer outlet ) should be the same feed that goes into the TS cold side, so if your cold feeds for the bathrooms simply tee off the cold mains then there's your problem. The problem is that the cold feed gets the resistance of the DHW coil in the TS added to its flow dynamic, so it's naturally under-powered vs the cold feed when being drawn at the same mixer ( hence the reference to dynamic flow NOT static pressure ). If all are the same, then you'll need to get to all of them I'd try with the primary PRedV first and see if you're lucky, if that can be easily undertaken on an experimental basis?

They look very smart when done in a sympathetic manner. I always try to do them the size of one full tile missing from the wall. No more fruit punch for you tonight

Is there a magnetic filter fitted? Have you closed all the ports bar one and see if that gets circulation ? I’d say the first port of call would be to change the manifold pump and then re-evaluate. Try opening the TMV to its highest setting and see if that gets things moving. If so, it’s the TMV that’s sludged / seized. The weir gauges are easy to clean and give worrying indications ( false ) that the system is heavily corroded / sludged up. If you isolate the manifold and blow the pressure off, most clear viewing caps just simply unscrew. Clean and replace with a bit of silicone lube on the threads and you’ll be able to view whatever is, or isn’t, going on.

Did you not upsize the lounge radiators?

I used my Bosch GL80-3 outside to do my man-shed base. Best £360 I ever spent, and has earned its price umpteen times over. Outside in bright sunlight you can still see the beam but only if you use something to create some shade, and use a piece of white card / stiff paper as a background to see the beam. Dawn / dusk is best if you want to use a ‘domestic ‘ laser to set out, but I’d rather struggle with a domestic one that will be invaluable when the interior stuff starts. The DeWalt one is very, very good value for money. ?. Only 2 line though ?.

I've been looking for the same for another couple of jobs, and found these about the most aesthetically pleasing of all of the 'offerings' out there. There are some bloody ugly and 'clunky' ones out there, so I have these ones earmarked already. "Carry on!"

BPC Ventilation iirc. I have images of their offerings on my phone to show customers as they have a few more available than most. There is an opening in the market for flush / recessed units here I think, but not a fan of the type you can see up into, which most alternatives seem to sufferer from. You also cannot have the ‘paper doily’ type ones as they’ll block up with dust me thinks.

It'll LOOK like 15l/min but it won't FEEL like it Have you ever used a basin tap that aerates? Takes much longer to wash you hands ergo does not save water as you're running the tap longer. The reason they do it is to fool you, subconsciously, that the water is running faster, but its not, as a water saving measure. 7.5l/min will always just be 7.5l/min. You can make it look more, but that's all.

Yup. Deffo get the bog seat from the same supplier as the pan. Shapes n colours a plenty otherwise !! Good shout, Woody

Just fit a £2 flow regulator ( restrictor ) into any shower head and you’ll be “saving water” in seconds, without any premium.

Mix them up on nearly every job. There’s only “so good” ( expensive ) you can make a chunk of porcelain .

I think it is near impossible to thermally isolate 1m2 of slab in a well insulated house. 100%

The Ivar set comes with 2 control head options, one does 30-50oC and the other does 20-60oC, you'll need the latter. If you wish to marry the Ivar to a Wunda manifold, there is a conflict of Male > Male or Female > Female and you can't fit the inline ( Wunda supplied ) isolation valves directly. Your plumber will work it out, but for simplicity I just bolt together minus the iso's and put gate valves before the whole manifold arrangement. You can buy the manifold from the same supplier that supply the Ivar set and then it'll all be compatible and will give you the manifold isolation as god intended. Just ensure that it's for 16mm pipe.

You wouldn’t have a 110mm branch just to pick up a WHB anyway so a bit OTT at first glance?

Knowing what size ASHP you’ll go with is a little coarse in deriving a size for PV, as a lot of people will oversize an ASHP so they run at half wallop ( modulated output to match demand ) so they run quieter and last longer. ?