Nickfromwales

Ok, everybody remain calm...... I’ll start a new thread and go from there. ? Cup running over at the mo so bear with me ?

There is a pattern developing where you selectively but carefully quote or gesticulate at any one, or other, particular individual in your replies and responses. It has been noticed, noted, and recorded hence your temporary exclusion, already given. If you wish to publicly (out)cry then it is fair to publicly respond from a moderator point of view. So I will. This forum is the result of a lot of hard work and time ( and money ) investment from a core of members who make up the FMG, and we will, absolutely, decide whom is to reside here and for whom their stay has out grown its welcome. You sir are on the very thinnest of ice. Choose a reason to remain, whilst your agenda is discussed elsewhere. I do not appreciate, or like, your tone. It won’t be tolerated much longer I assure you. Residing here is a privilege, not an assumption. Regards, mod team.

I'll PM you a couple when I get 5 mins

I’ll just say “cold ventilated subfloor under a heated slab?” Not in a gazillion years. ? The direction is forward squire, not reverse !

Read the blogs and you’ll have a much greater understanding Jeremys blog for one is very detailed and makes an excellent read.

Popping into the plumbers merchants will get you a price from Uponor / JG Speedfit if you’re lucky. Prices will be high. £100 to Wunda for a turnkey solution is chicken feed IMO and if they provide a design and shopping list then it removes any thinking ( and liability ) on your part.

If the wiring ctr gives an on / off steady voltage output then there is no reason they won’t work perfectly. 2-wire do not provide feedback so they’re dumb aka good news.

Are the current actuators 2 wire or 4 wire?

Liquid damp proof membranes can work really well. It’s just about getting them installed correctly, and then overlaid immediately to protect them from damage.

Note : only if it was a 2-storey house

By the time you fill the house with ‘stuff’ you’ll struggle to quantify the difference imo. Comparing empty house > empty house is where it would be notable I think but in real life I doubt there’s much in it at all. With a heated slab, the thermal time constant is just so good it’s already above and beyond the requisite to spend out further improving it. UNLESS you’re staying there for the remainder of your days I’d spend the extra cash on something else.

That is good, and is probably where I’d spend my money in a TF house.

Great point, forgot to mention that one.

Don’t waste your money putting plywood / OSB everywhere !!!! Anything significant ( noggins / timber panels for ) can be decided at the outset, and there are some very robust plasterboard ( retro-fit ) fixings our there now so the point is moot afaic. Deffo line the kitchen with plywood, 12/15mm, and the bathrooms too, for utensil / accessory fixings both now and later down, as that IMO has value. Boarding 100’s of m2 for nothing is just good money after bad. As far as acoustics are concerned, I’d say plywood would be a worse choice than double boarding with PB. If you’re really worried about noise / sound, then just double acoustic board the plant / study wall ( both sides ) and full-fill that stud void with acoustic rated Insulaton, likewise with any other problematic locations. Double boarding is twice the cost, simples, so use ones own noggin and just fit a single, thicker PB once . 15mm on the ceilings and room-dividing walls will be as good as 2 layers of 12mm, if you change from regular insulation to acoustic rated at noise specific junctions, so don’t spend out where you don’t have to. Outside / exterior walls can be regular ( cheap ) white 12.5mm board, as you have the blown cellulose TF, so no need for further expense there whatsoever.

IR heaters ‘heat what they hit’ so if you can’t see the heater you’ll get very little comfort heat from it. Conversely if you’re directly in front of it, you’ll be toasted. Not a fan of IR at all tbh. Standing a piece of furniture <100mm off a wall isn’t a big sacrifice in even the smallest of spaces, so probably good to keep some perspective here. I certainly wouldn’t want IR panels up at eye level ?

We’ve just done similar for a large job but have simply run 3c+E to each regular switch. That allows you to break the switches live and / or send 230v to the lamp from a central home automation hub. With that discipline you can overlay HA onto the existing generic wiring at any location, and also revert back to the normal switch if the HA falls over. Requires a lot of flood wiring, some of which will be known redundant until converted / upgraded to HA, but very future proof. Running MAINS ( 230v ) GRADE Cat6 / HA specific cables you each light switch would be a good idea for ultimate future proofing. That can daisy-chain switch to switch like a ring main, starting and stopping at the HA hub, and doesn’t need to be lots of radial runs. Yuk. I only do radials now for anything that isn’t a kitchen / utility. Why would you want to lose an entire floor of sockets for a duff mobile charger? Bedrooms / living / dining / hall-stairs-landing / plant etc all on radials if I’m doing the job ?.

?

Hey-up 'lad. Just realised this is only mocked up atm. Ditch that for two 45's and a straight, short flexi.

Plinth heater Wet and electric are available, but the wet version should work ok even at the lower flow temps. Example only Yes, as they will heat up at different times to each other. Tha can result in an UFH circuit running a lot on its own resulting in short-cycling. Would ideally need a decent ( 100L + ) buffer tank to feed everything from in order to hydraulically separate the two mediums.

Just done one exactly like that. No probs at all with that arrangement ?

https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/shop/home/quick-shop/wundatherm-quick-shop/controls-quickshop/actuator-auto-balancing/ They're the dogs danglies. I can tell you that the flow meters are OK and reasonably accurate, but always restrict even when you may not want them to ( eg when a large circuit wants more / full bore heat to satisfy the relative stat when other smaller circuits / zones are up to they're required temps already ), but these will give full flow to all circuits until the return temps come back warm, and then they start to strangle back the flow on the circuits that recirculated quickest, eg ones which would otherwise cause potential bypass issues for the larger circuits. I fit these routinely now where actuators are required, and they are super fast acting too. 10/10 from me.

It would come into it's own if being used in conjunction with high temp space heating + DHW, with SA being used as a heat bank for load-shifting off E7 / 10 / other, but yes, it's a difficultt sale at the price ticket that results in trying to combine the two. I'm much more of an advocate of SA = DHW, and then space heating gets met as and how best practicable. Let's not forget, however, that these types of installations are off-set by RHI payments, which does change things in anything less than a well-performing dwelling / poor EPC rating as that equals higher payments to go towards off-setting the capital expenditure.

Sonos all the way. Idiot proof, and child’s play, with one of the most robust platforms I’ve come across so far. Or, cheaper but coarser, something like a Lithe Bluetooth speaker, multiples of, but I’m not sure if these will network with one another. @Barney12’s, largely Sonos, system will exfoliate you. Tres bien

You can go one better as they are able to insist that a representative from the DNO actually attends site to carry out a witness of such export limitation. The DNO charge sometimes ( incontestable ) but often don’t. @willbish are you putting DC batteries in with the PV at the outset? You may never get permission to put them on the AC side, now or retrospectively, if they’re already so particular over this. Export limitation should suffice here so I don’t see you having a big problem. 3kWp on each roof sounds a good amount and would generate a good spread of Pv through the day, without the midday ‘peak’ that can knock the inverter off when the local voltage rises to 253v.

Sunamp no longer deal with the public directly, so their products are only available now via re-sellers. Sizing the unit size and type are quite specific requirements, so this would need to be surveyed by a SA accredited supplier. Installation price is "how long is a piece of string" as no two jobs are the same I'm afraid.