Nickfromwales

I think this is accurate. That I believe is why the temp DROP is difficult to detect, but temp RISE can be ( more easily / reliably ) detected. The PCM is heated up near the immersion at the bottom first for this reason I think, otherwise they'd be stuffed IMO. Because the PCM holds such a steady temp throughout its depletion, I think its there that the 'crude' temp detection becomes apparent. My speculation / ramblings and no more, but its good to get it off your chest ( on the off-chance someone concurs lol ).

E10. So you have 1pm to 4pm on off peak rate.

If the little SA sachets are anything to go by, they cool to ambient and then lose nothing of the heat stored from the phase change.

Ps the image I posted was a simple net grab

What’s there not to like ? ?

Cheap as chips silicone in most instances. After that, whatever I can get hold of. I dont ever tank the bath surrounds tbh, but your a lady thats not for turning. Ill bet the primer wasn't dry enough for that test though.

So close to finishing.....we can almost taste victory!

@Big Neil The cold water going into the DHW cylinder and the hot feed coming out to supply the taps have been omitted for definition of whats heating and whats DHW.

If you can get SS shims under the offending feet then I would. You need the bath just floating over the tiles as, as you say, once its full of water there could be a lot of weight bearing down. Its equally important to get the tiles completely flat all the way along that bath edge. You should be able to see down that side and get them spot on.

Oky Doky. At the moment, Sunamp have a PCM 34 unit which is matched to a low temp ( = or < 55oC ) ASHP. Its currently back on rapid cycle test and will re-appear in the next few months I think. In the meantime, there are other ASHP's that will do up to ( and above ? ) 65oC which will melt the PCM in a PCM 58 Sunamp unit. How the efficiency of said ASHP would be affected by this is for someone with a scientific calculator to comment on, but if you're referring to a regular ASHP and SA combo, then its a non starter at the moment. Instead, why not use the ASHP for space heating ( as you have UFH and you're house will lend itself to be heated at flow temps as low as 35-40oC ( ? )) and enjoy having a SCoP ( seasonal average ) of maybe 2.5to 3.0, and then let the SA unit just do DHW off grid electricity? You may benefit from E10, but you'd need to work that out properly, just that if you're in in the days you'll deffo need to use heating in the colder seasons so it may as well be from E10 so cheap rate electricity into the ASHP which is a multiplier. If for eg a unit of electricity is 10p peak, then you'll be heating your home for around 4p via the ASHP. Good that youve got UFH as it opens up some options for low grade heat.

The PCM doesn't start to melt until 58oC or above. They accept 65oC as the chosen injection temp when using a wet external source for heat input. You can go as high as 70-75oC if its delivered in a stable flow, but the advice ( requirement ) is that it never gets near 85oC. An ASHP, for eg, chucking out 55oC is totally useless with a PCM58 unit as it will not melt it. Heat will be absorbed, but the PCM will not phase change until 58oC or above is achieved.

From my direct experience, the water comes out noticeably hotter at the start, hence the requirement to fit a TMV to the hot outlet of every unit delivering DHW as a measure for anti-scald.

I can promise you that that does not happen

I’ve just pre ordered 30,000 of these. I’ll be rich beyond my wildest dreams. Just don’t tell anyone ok

I am discussing this with SA this week. They have already approached me re a membership here so watch this space basically. WRT the 50/90 settings, I'm also awaiting an update on that. Whether that comes from SA or me will be up to them basically. Hopefully it will come from them ( so I can get on with some work lol ).

One single cell, two heat exchangers. I suppose the voodoo is a well kept secret but I think the issue is that the PCM freezes upon first activation and the heat just simply sits there waiting to be used in the super insulated cell. Based on a domestic situation, it would get recharged in any 24 hour period so not an issue. Once charged, it would just sit there until the first / next activation event. My thoughts, may be wrong. I just cant see how they could stop / start the reversal tbh. Maybe they would have been better off cascading multiples of small cells, but then they'd need multiple HEx's, multiple immersions etc and the cost and complexity would be off the chart.

In a nutshell, yes. The fact is that the tap is currently, and future intention compliant. Its just in the interim when matey-boy want to hook the cold mains up does the issue arise. As theres an air-break, eg the spout of the tap, I doubt syphon would / could ever occur here.

If the pipe falls less than 1300mm invert to invert you dont really need one tbh.

Totally agree, and it may be that that tap has two separate water paths to the spout and the hot and cold never meet, which is a true unbalanced mixer tap ( eg two separate taps combined into one solid tap body ). I also agree that you shouldn't run a hot bath and then pour cold water over it, and my bath is a thermostatic overflow filler so I can get the bath spot on every time with no 'cooling down'. Unless its SWMBOS bath where its bloody roasting hot. Women.......................they're just weird

Not really. Its only a 25 gal tank which would have emptied out doing the hot water. Then, with like 4 litres per min std on the ball valve, it will be refilling when you go and whack the cold tap on full so doesn't stand a chance. Not quite. The two bodies of water meet in the outlet pipework so not a true cold mains / gravity hot tap If the back pressure from running the cold flat out is greater than the outlet gauze / nozzle doodah on the tap spout then it'll start to push against gravity hot, if both taps are ever fully opened. You'll be fine in the interim if you just run the hot first and then shut the hot tap, and then open the cold tap on its own. Another quick cheat would be a single check NRV on the hot until the UVC fairy gets you a used tank for nowt when one pops up

Crossed with J. As per my last, hence, you can put PVC singles in a minimal trunking or conduit and it is compliant.

The requirement is one layer of electrical insulation, and one layer or means of mechanical protection. The outer layer being sacrificial to the inner.

50 pages. A nice even number

My point. Are you better off / would it be easier to just get the one 16mm into the house and do everything else from the ( assume it will be ) DB3 ?

Just cut off the back of the trim and it'll sit down a bit better Problem? What problem?