Nickfromwales

300mm gets you to PH levels so I’m also an advocate of dig a little deeper and fill it up with EPS. PIR is just so much more expensive to get a little thinner.

My office at home is 1000mm x 3600mm as the last 1m of my 6m man-shed. The door is central with the window opposite and then desk / PC / whiteboards to left, files and an A3 & A4 printer to the right. As above I just used breather membrane and stapled the life out of it to get it draught-proof and rain tight, and I've not bothered with insulation. A 1500W fan heater warms the space in minutes on it's lowest setting ( 750W thermostatically controlled on the fan heater ( cost £10 )) and as I haven't run the SWA to it yet, all running off the patio outside socket off a 13a extension lead. OSB3 internals and painted white ( water based gloss from B&Q 'own brand' £13 for 5L ) and OSB3 T&G floor with garage floor paint for a clean finish and a bit of vapour control. Suits me fine but looked like a small space on graph paper. Turned out great. Peace and quiet is priceless.

32mm DuoPrimo underground every tme for me, and 28mm above ground, to a low loss header for unrestricted flow switch operation, is my benchmark. For the minimal uplift in costs it just isn’t worth counting bends and working out other such adversities afaic to warrant using 22mm. If the ASHP is more or less back-to-back with the plant location then it could be agreed that the uplift was unnecessary. You'll save very little going to 22mm, so go for 28mm IMO.

Hep is available in 6m lengths too. Quite handy for small projects where you don' want to buy a big coil but want to traverse a room / space without intermediate joints. eg

So they can "bleed" more cash out of you of course!

OK, so not one of my best ideas then maybe

You'll eventually have one of these kits fitted for filling and expansion + PRV;; So you get the pressure reading for the whole heating system from here, typically.

Useful link for bottles

Yup. I'd buy two and ditch the pressure gauge so you have air release ( automatic ) on both rails.

I'd say make a sump and drop the 47kg bottles into it, but am mindful that LPG is heavy so not sure what the regs would say about that. If it's outdoors then it should be fine, but best to get a GSR'd fitter to approve anything to do with gas.

I was just about to say that........

You’ll be up there every week cleaning those. The proper ones have either no restriction or just a fine 10x10mm mesh. Also, the type you show from BPC is for outlet only. For inlet you need the one that looks like a gas boiler vertical flue, and I believe it’s to do with sucking in excess rain / spray that bounces off the roof in bad weather. ?

Thickness of slab / screed? UFH pipes in which ?

https://www.electrical2go.co.uk/insulated-aluminium-ducting-100mm-x-10m-fxalins-100.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1ubAyLnc6gIVj-vtCh1GlgBoEAQYBSABEgLqkPD_BwE Even cheaper again

If it looks nice, leave it in

Sniff around the UPVC yards for mis-measured units. How long does this need to last?

Sleep tight.

If you start now, you can be finished by Wednesday teatime. ?

+1 Get a good operator to go around the lot, digging into the surrounding ground, and then wiggle the whole mass back into a correct position. Can be done in a day. You'll need a tonne or two of type 1 handy to back-fill. Hose that into place 300mm at a time to allow it to settle and compact.

Deffo annular / ring- shank nails. If I’m ever worried about 2 bits of wood working themselves apart over time, heat / cool / wet / dry cycles etc, I dovetail nail for belt and braces. Basically it’s just two nails at each point, fired in at opposite angles from the same place, about 1/2” apart, at an angle of 30-40 degrees. That V means the nails fight against each other if the timber is pulled / tries to move away. If you’re really bothered, glue and nails will be another option, dependant on how susceptible the substrate is to delamination. Dovetail nail a couple of bits of wood together with ring shanks and see the difference for yourself.

Hi. If it's triple glazed then it should be reasonably high performance so maybe not such an issue. You can get 'the numbers' off each proposal and compare them side-by-side to gauge the impact of either choice. You could also choose to offset the losses of a larger window by beefing up the insulation level in the rest of the roof structure. Adding 30mm of PIR over the face of the joists before plaster-boarding for eg would be one way. Conversely, consider the adventitious heat gains from solar gain with the larger window and weigh up the pro's and con's And welcome!

I believe when the first few courses of blocks are above knee-level, you have to pay up?

+1. Most mains around here are from a 3/8" tapping, but the flow rates are ridiculous. The flow rate at the street needs to be preserved, so you only need to fit larger pipe than normal if the distance that the water is to be conveyed is abnormally long. At 40m I doubt that there is much need to go to 32mm, unless the pressure and flow at the street is ?. However, I would never be an advocate of fitting less than 32mm because of the point @Temp makes, and that is that you are not guaranteed to still be receiving the same supply static & dynamic flow rates as first deemed. Putting in a bigger pipe now, uplift in cost of doing this would be the same as a pint and a kebab, is good insurance. NOTE : Not all kebabs are equal.

I think the Ivar set and 3rd party manifolds mate together, but IIRC you have to ditch the red and blue isolation valves due to the conflicting male / female 1" BSP fittings. Order what you need and do a 'dry run' to see what does / doesn't marry up. In the past, where it's been a 'hybrid' arrangement, I just added standard gate valves before the primary plumbing hits the pump / blending set. Best to check compatibility and go from there.