Nickfromwales

Are you putting those inside in the attic? There are some good ready made filter boxes with circular ( 160 / 180mm ) flnges on ready to go. sealed lids with clips etc. Link Might save some work

Fitted loads of it. Solid, robust gear and no wonky porcelain as you get with the cheaper ( chine....... ) stuff.

link ?

Bugger. I don't think you can have a horizontal ASHP UVC. Check directly with Trevor is best. Mention Nick and the forum when you ring him. Trevor ( cylinders2go ) 07939 996940 ?

Been there..... Done that.... Didn’t work.... Created lots OF work ( for volunteer staff members who had better things to be doing )..... Went away..... Not coming back....

Round 2.........

And there in lays the problem. MCS guy can earn more elsewhere, or will just hammer you for the ‘cheek’ of it Where are you? I may have a guy who will help out, ( F-gas & MCS ). Do you stand to get a lot from the RHI payments? Eg do you want all the extra up-front capital expenditure without seeing first if it’s all worth it?

This was the question folks. Can we keep on topic please, as we've already had one train-wreck of a brexit thread go 'bye-bye' and I'm getting an itchy trigger finger already just by the way this is picking up pace ( in all the wrong directions )? I will ask that anyone who hasn't got anything relative to the OP to say, types nothing at all So simple an idea, it's almost perfect. This is not, nor will it become, a 'Brexit thread'. Go to the pub and discuss that over a few Stella's. Mods shall lock this for 24 hours to allow some time for reflection.................."Strike 1"

Other cities are available...........

I routinely fit those switches as there is just no way of determining where a detection has occurred otherwise. They hush, and you can test with them too, great when you have vaulted ceilings. It's a tight fit getting 2 sets of cables into a smoke base, so try and find the last one to connect the cables for the switch as it'll only have a single cable at the moment. Be very careful that all 3 wires are in and tight if you go for one that has 2 wires in it already, and normal practice would be to tug on each individual cable after you're done tightening up to see if any of them just 'pop out' Just remember if you interfere with the smoke detection cabling along the rout through the house, and you bugger it up, you may have inadvertently removed the trigger wire from a lot of downstream detectors, so beware. Test everything thoroughly afterwards !

Kudox radiators are B&Q / screwfix rubbish. Avoid the touching of, with a barge-pole.... Paint is wafer thin and they chip / damage easily. There's much better out there for not much more money

I'd be a little concerned that the roof style 'may' let a little rain in on the other side? Did the architect sell you this design as 'open plan'?

I normally bring them up tight to the plasterboard, as you can always find a way to bring the fitting forward, but not so easy to move the pipe set into the floor back...

There are several manufacturers now offering ‘super silent’ units for areas that require it.

Thoughts still are; 1) you don’t need this setup. 2) see point 1. Get a cheap ASHP ( LOW TEMP ) off the ‘net to do space heating / cooling, and link your pv up to dump any excess into DHW.

Trevor at Cylinders2go will give you a good price too, if you want a comparison. He did a group purchase discount a while back for the forum posse

That's one i did a while back. 14kW HT split, feeding 2x eHeat + 1x HW ( all size 9 ), load-shifting off E10 into high temp emitters ( standard convector radiators ) in a poor performance dwelling. For this instance i totally understood the remit and the above system complimented the job perfectly. For a hose with low temp emitters I think it needs to be revisited. Without all of the details I cannot comment absolutely, so any other info would be good.

I admire the guys enthusiasm, but is this not just a re-make of the old 'bath / basin' setup of cylinders in the 70's where if you wanted hand / dish wash through the day you fed into the top loaded immersion, and if you wanted a bath you flicked the switch for the lower mounted immersion and then heated the old tank. I'd be very interested in how much this "new technology" costs vs a standard UVC with an upper and lower immersion + additional stat pocket....

PV based systems should store excess, so I’m a little confused by your question. PV doesn’t lend electricity to DHW, it has to be diverted there. For eg; If PV is generating 4kw of juice and the house is looking for 1kW then you’ll have 3kW going begging ( so it'll fulfil the needs of a typical 3kW immersion heater ) whereas 2kw from the roof would give a 1+1 divide, as the house would not ‘switch off’ to allow the full 2kw to go to DHW. The house ( your base load ) will be a constant and will be the first thing to suckle from the CU, regardless of where the energy is coming from, so managing control / diversion needs to be fully understood “Direct PV heating” would be for eg a DC immersion fed only from the DC PV panels, with the AC side of the house on the grid mains, or DC panels into an AC inverter that is not grid tied ( eg to a dedicated device only ). @AnonymousBosch, you’re going to have to buy something for DHW, so why so worried about the SA? A lot of people have them and they’re working fine. Unvented cylinders aren’t without problems / failures, vented are useless without a pump or a CWS tank up in the clouds, so what gives? Maybe the question should he asked directly to Sunamp; ”Will you carry spares?”, so I’ll ask Simples.

Future proofing is never a bad shout. @TerryE Wait until Monday if you can, and I’ll make some calls. When exactly did you buy the units?

Are the Sunamps to be heated by the ASHP?

Hi and welcome to the forum. The unit can be fitted by a ‘reasonably competent’ individual, and the controllers are pre-assigned to the type of unit ( hot water only / hot water + gas boiler etc ) prior to dispatch. If you’re having difficulties still send me a PM and I’ll see what I can do to help. Do you have your own plumbers / electricians?

A size 9 unit ( ~10.5kW actual ) lends itself to managing your DHW water use and deciding how / when you have to boost it with grid. My proposal to go to a size 12 unit ( ~14kWh actual ) will have much more space to store energy, allow for the drain from the HRC, and guarantee that you’ll be fine to charge once a day from low rate electricity ( allowing you to downscale the size of your intended PV array too ). At 5p/ unit with Octopus, plus the ( iirc ) 5.2p export tariff ( available now ) this would work out the best bang for your buck. PV won’t cut it all year round, but grid is constant ( at least as long as the supplier is in business ) but consumer deals for buying electric should get better with EVs becoming more popular ( or even mandatory ) and suppliers having to lend themselves to more sensible ( dare I say ‘consumer friendly’ tariffs. Having additional headroom in the capacity of the SA also means more energy can be harvested in times of plenty, for use when maybe the PV output the following day is poor. £300 well spent imho, as you’re paying for the smaller unit and installation anyway. When given this option a lot of people are going for it. Cheaper than lithium storage and a much longer lifespan / near zero service & repair, so economics wise, for dumping excess PV or load-shifting, a good option afaic.