Nickfromwales

Its no problem at all. You go the the RSJ aka UC shop and buy one

Joins in composite are common, and are present on most turns in the direction of the worktop. Its down to how diligent the fitter is.

Small steel. Its too cheap to even consider concrete imo. And concrete pads

Not that bad if it saves you a few £k on a new lift

Much cheaper on CU's ( consumer units ) then too

I'm sure you can get single phase to 3 phase convertors. Dont quote me on it though

No reason not too at all, other than converting to 15mm. Done it a few times where the pipe was over-ordered.

Yes, lets please keep this thread concise, thanks.

I like that idea. Cheap as chips, and no need to paint it ( the uPVC ) ever.

T'was only yesterday we were discussing the making of the electric wackaplate Looking good, and not that far to go 2019 is the deadline.

The more holes you drill, and allow the product to expand out of, the better the fill. Also there will then be little or no pressure applied to the P board. Deffo to the wetting.

Basements rule. End of. ?

Best of British with that lol.

@PeterW Any benefit from going out the top via a Sussex? It’ll be the hottest water after all. I’d be happy enough as long as the cyl stat is kept ( mounted ) low tbh.

Yup. Definitely a waste of time and money. Your boiler will be chucking 30kW in and another immersion would only provide another 3, totally pointless. 100%, dress or no dress.

Every bit of info I've had, even from the various manufacturers own tech / sales people has been so unclear and indecisive that I instantly removed myself from a position of quoting for such a system to a client who had expressed interest in one. I was being told of "how good they were in Japan", and thought...…"but I'm asking about the UK you nugget ?!?" I'm all up for tasting new flavours, but this one went sour pretty damn fast. If you don't want to ( simply and relatively cheaply ) boost by electricity then go for the hybrid. PV would swing it to the electricity option afaic.

Be good if you have as you'll have a separate flow tapping for the DHW PHE. With regards to sustain, I wouldn't worry about sapping the cylinder as the space heating wont even blink if its has an empty buffer for 30 mins or so. Only issue will be the useful temp cut-off point of ~40oC but if you set the cylinder set temp to ~65oC and try it I think you'll be fine. If your DHW usage is higher and you find yourself needing more 'capacity', just incrementally raise the set temp by 2oC and retry daily, adjusting accordingly as you go, until your happy.

Just enough time to try all your frocks on Images I cannot un-see

Do you mean it has an auxiliary tapping 2/3 of the way up on one side ( which is a hot return tapping ) ? A regular cylinder has cold in, side mounted at the very bottom x1, combined hot and vent out of the very top x1, and nowt else other than the coil tapping's which are hydraulically separate.

So, to clarify, your cylinder has the 4 individual tappings as shown, plus the 2 for the coil ?

The whole point of the buffer is to allow your big gas boiler to chunk heat into the buffer at the optimum condensing range flow temp. The boiler should not be constantly idling to keep the buffer temp low, nor will it be able to as that model has ( IIRC ) 7kW minimum burner output at maximum modulation. The way you propose to run it will see the boiler constantly cycling, fan constantly spinning, gas valve constantly active etc, so will reduce the longevity of the boiler too. Please elaborate? You'll still need 2-port zone valves on each run to stop flow when not required. If the pipes aren't in yet then just throw a cable in as you go. The kick in the nuts is that you cannot reduce the size of the DHW device if you only have seasonal uplift ( eg the heating is on so you get preheat as a side effect ). Not so problematic if there is enough excess PV to heat the buffer an the SA / UVC but then its just additional summer heat gain, and often unwanted. You'll be there for years trying, and it would be a nightmare to balance and keep balanced.

Yes, noted, but you don't have a mix of emitters over a number of floors. To have one flow temp to all the manifolds with them just having pumps is not a good idea, IMO, given I've done such installs and found it essential to be able to choose a slightly higher flow rate for the UFH over the timber floors, even with aluminium spreader plates. Bear in mind the UFH here is router'd into insulation with no aluminium plates to conduct and dissipate the heat effectively.

We always used dedicated nylon washers for isolation when working on the ships. How reliable / weather resistant is the paste?

Do these things expand / contract at all ?

If you want your pumps and valves operating 60 times a minute then yes. Best get to the NASA boot sale this coming Sunday