Nickfromwales

RG59 is the standard stuff.

Other option is to 18mm shuttering ply ( cheapest of the plywoods ) the whole thing prior to PB and crack on. NB : Don't forget to provision for the power and bell push wires

WRONG! The first thing your garage door fitters will say is "where are the ceiling joists sherlock?" If the brackets land between joists then you'll need to have beefy noggins fitted to take the heavy duty fixings. Either that or the garage fitters may slap you with an extra and supply and fit ugly uni-strut to traverse joists and create fixing points. Let the guys fit the garage doors, infilling with timber where necessary, and then you just drop one bracket at a time as you board sections at a time. When you reinstate the fixings you know you're going back into the underlaying noggins and the ceiling will be free from clutter. The only consideration id look at is skinning the wall with the garage door opening with 18mm ply / other to stop any cold bridging from the steel over the door. The garage door running gear will need a fix to this and creates a metal / steel connection that's not ideal, imo.

Unless its huge or flowing water it'll be sapped in no time

Dead simple. In 80mm of depth it would be nigh on daft to attempt to overlay 30mm of product where 16mm of that was pipe as its integrity would be that of a KitKat. Also, trying to bond those two thermally dissimilar layers ( one would be heated, the other would be being heated by the other ) would be a proper ball-ache. They 100% made the right decision for you there.

What are you doing for heating and hot water? Wont be far off needing to start provisioning for 1st fix services / penetrations etc.

UFH is a can of worms in a retrofit. Be very wary of what youll do to keep the place warm if youre not going to remove the wooden floors ( joists and all, eg nothing between you and the dirt ) and insulate under a new slab. You can insulate under the joists a little and then insulate between the joists, and then you can lay aluminium spreader plates directly underneath the floorboards which will work. If you zoom in you can see the shiny aluminium panels with the two indents for a piece of 16mm pipe to sit in. This really is a question of how far you can improve the building in order for UFH to become suitable. A house like this would normally need high temp emitters such as radiators, which quickly change cold air into warm air and circulate it around the room whilst doing so. LOTS to consider before even thinking about UFH

Put a strip of white laminate up in the soffit, the stuff you can buy on masking tape sized rolls for making good on the ends of kitchen worktops etc. White, bond on, scrubbable / won’t degrade, and will reflect the light off the LED strip. Bingo.

For wood, try and avoid laminate as it needs professional repair. Splash out on engineered with a real wood veneered finish. Some can be ’refinished’ ( sanded back and varnished / other ) as many as 5 times, dependant on how thick the veneer is. Amtico and Karndean are the industry standard for soft footing, and wear very very well. I recently took out a KD floor which had been born for nearly 30 years. Was still in exceptional condition just bleached by the sun in the normal places. Check UV resistance, whatever you choose, if subject to direct sweeping sunlight.

You people buy the stuff, and I fit it to the best standard that “it” can achieve. Look at at that bird getting up close to BoJo. “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder” Tidy, that’s your gin and @newhome‘s coffee. I’m going for a hat trick. ??

Buy a new, smaller one. Do not feck the grout up. It’s the icing on the cake ?

So secondary metering after the main meter. Still a district system if it’s from one billing meter ?

You set the setback temp ( actually it’s referred to as nighttime / unoccupied “economy” temp ( aka ‘off’ ) and daytime “comfort” temp ( aka ‘on’ ) ) to the lowest temp you can accept the house falling to at night. youd probably be best setting it to 16oC and most of the year it’ll likely not come on much anyway. The generic ‘economical’ advice you got is just knee-jerk I-can’t-be-bothered-to-go-into-detail reply. Pretty much the norm.

Masking tape is you friend. Don’t leave it on, it must be removed immediately after tooling / finishing / dressing the silicone. A cup of water and baby wipes are essentials, and always wet your finger before attempting to smooth. Smooth the excess over onto the masking, and peel away when happy. Once peeled the silicone edges will fray slightky, so one more wet finger or wetted tool run should finish the job nicely. Maybe a practice run on some scrap first would be best to get you ‘fully trsined’

That’s a very coarse way to introduce UFH. As you’ll have a lot of concrete to heat up and keep at temp I expect that the flow temp would therefore need to be considerably higher than if the pipes were in the slab itself. Thermally isolating the pipes from an existing ( therefore possibly insulation unknown / not present ) slab is paramount. The overfloor systems deal with this in a far better way imo, and I’d only consider the ‘cut groove and lay’ system in a thin slab with known insulation, if I could self level ( therefore fully encapsulating the pipe for optimised heat transfer to the surrounding material ) and if I could tile or lay a decent thickness engineered floor to absorb and diffuse the heat as effectively as possible.

My point was if you purposefully intend to rent an annex, b&b or holiday let etc, then you would ( iirc ) need to do a ‘district’ heating system that supplies the buildings with heat and hot water. One system that is eligible for ND not a few individual systems gauged on their own circumstances / merit.

Yup. Grab the vat, then convert. Without commercial gain you don’t get the commercial ( called non-domestic ) RHI, which is a lower rate but 20 years vs 7 for higher rate domestic.

Just if any shower door seals etc. Just a generic 'heads up' to other readers if not applicable to yours

One option; The over floor / over lay systems

Go all out and start afresh Get a silicone removal tool, score the silicone first with a Stanley knife to get things moving, ( don't scratch the tiles ), and then get a silicone remover such as CT1 multisolve / other. A few applications will see the old silicone dissolve and go to mush, and with repeated applications the old shit will all be off and you'll have a blank canvass. Labour of love though im afraid. Start up high so the product works as it descends, and don't let it sit on any rubber seals ( mask off if unavoidable ).

We would expect nothing else All depends if there's just gaps to fill back in, and the original stuff is in good repair TBH. Main thing is that it is DRY, as silicone will not take to anything wet. Best to dry it by blasting it with a hair drier for a good 5-10 mins, and then leave to cool right off. Dry the majority with kitchen roll first.

Modern gas hobs will have an FFD ( flame failure device ) so the gas shuts off without the presence of a flame Idiot proof.

self propelled

The duff link was to one in a toothpaste tube Been a long day. This is the correct link...….."Joys of modern technology", my hairy welsh arse it is!!

bugger ill change it in a mo. 2nd one is the winner