Nickfromwales

In a nutshell, stopping the worst of the external temp swings from affecting the dwelling interior. Once you are close to equilibrium the space heating ( and cooling ) requirements will be quite negligible, just a question of how big a hill you have to climb ( and how much it costs ) to get there vs what you will save on energy.

Turn the PRedV up to 3.5 or 4 bar and enjoy the benefits. Yes, shite can block the fine gauze filter in the cartridge of the PRedV but that should all be worked out by now so a clean up should see you enjoy trouble-free motoring for a good number of years. 3 bar strangles the flow to death BTW, especially if fighting that ridiculous primary pressure.

It'll withstand a bit more exposure than regular OSB, nothing else, and will degrade quite happily if left exposed to very high humidity / water ingress etc so take that statement with a pinch of salt You need a DPC, go buy some ?

Exactly my point above, to create a space largely unaffected by external influences. Wind and cloud are outside, and only thing affected by wind really is the MVHR. Yes the wind adds to the heat / cool 'wrap' around the exterior of the dwelling, but investing in staving off any big influences from external conditions is a plus afaic.

"The longer the better" is the bottom line Will add sustain to the thermal inertia of the internal fabric and core structure, ( that which is within the heated envelope ), which is a good thing for heating via load shifting eg ASHP > UFH in slab via 3x E10 'chunks' which should afford you zero input in between those off-peak times. Quite a 'big' question / subject, so specifics would be appreciated if we're to expand

Can't afford meat now though, due to the electric bill of running the damn things constantly!!

Got exactly this in the boys attic room, and you could keep meat in there.

Recently picked up a Daikin one with 2x internal units BNIB's off someone who was fed up of tripping over the boxes....for £200.00. My house is like a furnace and the home office is unbearable so this is getting done ASAP as it's just not survivable ATM ( plus these will provide heat in the winter and PV will offset AC function ). Just wish we still lived deep in caves, then no issues would exist!! 25.2oC inside today, office was hotter.

Can't help wondering how structures have been erected without such technology, in days gone by.....

I'd be very interested in how you modelled the 2 hour divide?

Deffo. I would get in touch with Vaillant directly if the noise persists. I'd say that is installer error for the most, in placement of the internal unit and execution of the install as a whole. It'll pick a few ears up if you kick off suitably, but politely. I doubt that you are very far away from a good install, just the company makes money by being "in and out" so I supect a little attention to detail has gone to the wayside. Approach the installers again and say the noise came back. Make it their problem not yours.

Lip service for most I'm afraid ( bloody expensive lip service too ).

I think you could just fill it in in crayon and they wouldn't give a shit in most instances.

Put his back out quite badly from what I gather, so is laid up.

So why not just connect radiators to the range and keep the oil install / tank / etc for the get-go? It's either start with a full brand new system or apply some duct tape and WD40 to what you already have to minimise the capital expenditure ( not so much good money now after bad ? ). Whatever flow and return pipework you install will be the same needed if / when you upgrade to whatever, but you seriously need to look at getting on the RHI scheme in some way ( achievable with the hybrid and you should max out at £12k over 7 years if you use the current EPC ) and go for a hybrid. During the periods heading into and out of the shoulder months the ASHP can provide heating at the unassisted temperatures, and then when it gets bitter the oil kicks in to help out. You are where you are with heating requirements, but with walls that thick I would look closely at the draught-proofing and triple glazing / good external doors, as infiltration will be your worst enemy IMO. Swap the extractor fans for ones with shutters, and yes, go mad in the attic with insulation!

When you're ready just bump this thread, and we'll go through it until you're sure of what to do and how to attack it.

Measure twice cut once ??

?

Oh, and don't forget that the RHI scheme dies off ( IIRC ) sometime in 2020. There is another scheme called "the heat-pump tariff" but I haven't had any details on that yet so google will be your friend.

https://www.grantuk.com/products/hybrids/ Something to think about. And;

Yup. Get the 'blobs' quite close to each other ( say 12 blobs for a 100mm x 1000mm tray for eg ) and you'll be good to go. 5mm is all you will need. A sealant tube nozzle can be hammered flat and used like a knife to get the goop in. I would use clear CT1 every time, but EverBuild StixAll Crystal Clear is the same stuff if you can buy that cheaper.

If you know nowt about ventilation then it's well worth it for that alone, plus your OH will get a fresh perspective including renewables. The courses there are quite comprehensive so time to teach the old dog new tricks

Yup, the old systems use gravity to an open F&E ( Feed and Expansion ) tank at the highest point of the system, so this could be in an airing cupboard also BUT it could also be topped up from what is called a "Primatic" hot water cylinder, which is a regular looking copper cylinder but it has a bellow / diaphragm inside it which allows water to be forced into the central heating 'loop'. That force is generated by the much larger CWS ( Cold Water Storage ) tank in the attic but you MUST NOT ADD INHIBITOR if the system is primatic. Locate the tank, or if no tank then check the type of cylinder and report back here ( with some pics if necessary ). If there are a pair of tanks, then the smaller will be the F&E, and you will need to check that this is full of water ( at least 1/3 to 1/2 full is norm but can be higher ) as sometimes the reason the rads need bleeding is that there is a blockage in the T where the F&E pipe connects to the system and that stops the system being automatically 'topped-up'. There is a lot to check before dabbling with an old system, so get clued up ( as you are doing here ) and then go at it. If all is good then bleed the rads one at a time, starting downstairs and work your way up ( if it's a 2-storey property ) so that will allow the system to regain its 'head' of pressure between bleed off's. Do this with the heating system switched off, but if you get no joy then try it again with the heating pump on and running with the rad valves all fully open. Beware, old rad valves do NOT like being opened and closed, and will likely leak a bit when you do so. Happy days !

......new thread alert....... "How to drill waste holes in walk on glazing panels".