Nickfromwales

@lizzie Would this help? Link Stop the press ( quite literally ) I thought id seen these. Back of the net

What alternative would you have? Radiators? Don't discount a hybrid ASHP fortified with LPG. You can then also fit a gas hob / gas inset fire if easier / meagre electricity supply.

Would any of the units be rental ?

Don’t fit an instant, such as a Steibel as you’ll regret it. Incrementally something like this is far more bang for the buck. If you see a higher demand in the not too distant future then for a handful of tenners more you can go to his bigger brother. If you do a bit of storage you can heat on economy perhaps, rather than peak on demand consumption. Case dependant of course.

I'd deffo go for a 22mm 'backbone' and drop to 15mm when you et to the last 2-3 outlets. What hot water device are you fitting? UVC?

Will do. I'll be speaking to the installers ( I've subbed in ) later this week for a progress / scheduling report so will get some info asap. Its the Eco Angus Arligno 200 I went with, 40kW ( for the thicker walled steel ) and a much bigger fuel chamber for a lesser number of batch burns per TS recharge. £12k back over 7 years isn't to be sniffed at !

@iSelfBuild We'll have to change your username to Sarah Beeny at this rate !

@jamiehamy Sounds like a cracking idea to me. I've suggested this to a number of clients now We did another on a log gasification boiler instead of a WBS+BB as the latter didn't attract RHI, but the LGB does. Lots of great 'commercial' incentives about, but not many people jump to take advantage for whatever reason I suspect its because of the fear of the capital outlay, but there are loans about specifically to facilitate this IIRC.

25mm is a decent sized main for a domestic dwelling. You may be having extra bathrooms, but you'll likely not use them all simultaneously. If you think you will use them / have very high DHW demand then I doubt fitting a 32mm main to the existing mains ( street ) supply will make any notable difference TBH.

Just buy some cheap pipe insulation and lag the pipes where the timber is the only support. The pipe then moves within the insulation and it cannot degrade then.

Passive house ( aka well insulated build ). Sorry, a bit late and I'm cream krackered.

Just for your sanity, popping a soil pipe through a PH wall will not bring the 4 horseman knocking

The vent can be on any exterior elevation, can exit through the roof centrally on a stand alone SVP run etc but cannot vent at ground level near the property / adjacent to neighbours property / other point where the 'stench' would be a nuisance. The vent is to get the gasses out of the network, so can get quite stinky. As for the insulation, I'd buy some self adhesive neoprene insulation tape and wrap the outside of the pipe to the point it becomes exposed inside / outside, sealing and weatherproofing accordingly.

Strange......you normally drink it

If you are on network / mains for sewerage, then each property has to provide a minimum of 1 vent to atmosphere. Making that external SVP ( soil vent pipe ) your vent to atmosphere will encourage it to become a cold vent, but unless you have made provision for a vent elsewhere youll have to go for that regardless to satisfy the BCO. Any other rising SVP can then terminate in an AAV ( air admittance valve ), making things easier for the other internal waste connections. What you 'can' do is get BCO signoff and then take the vent cap off the external stack and replace it with another AAV, thus massively reducing the cold draught that would otherwise continue to be problematic. Can you exit the building, then turn left or right slightly and drop / rise off to one side of the point that the pipe exits the building? Basically, if your stuck with the vent to atmosphere, can you put a bit of distance between the exit point of the build fabric and the natural (rising / passing ) path of the venting air? What insulation has been used? I would recommend filling the gap around the pipe with expanding foam as it will help insulate the pipe.

They'll join up fine with solvent weld. +1 to using a cleaner, and I also scratch the surfaces up first with 80 grit paper first so the shine is off them. Its also good if you can get a bit of a twist action rather than just push them home. Polypipe solvent cement 'gap filler' is the glue for this. link. Don't use normal solvent weld if your not familiar with making these off as its much thinner and the gaps are greater with this mix of pipe / fittings types ;).

Fire rated is only applicable if there is a 'deemed habitable' room above. You're 100% off the hook there.

Not necessarily in the living room, but as an alternative for areas you'd consider fitting a 'regular spotlight'.

Different types of downlights can have much shallower depths I personally prefer the led flat panel ( 180mm round ) LED types nowadays, and the light is just spectacularly better than a single small spot. There are instances where I will still fit a 'regular spotlight' but they need to be a nice looking fitting with no horrible visible clip / other to retain the lamp. EDIT : You are single storey too, so no need for fire rated fittings so much more choice

Should read MASSIVELY improved sound proofing. It really makes a huge difference in my direct experience. PIR is pretty ‘transparent’ as a wrap for a home. @Dreadnaught I’d stick to your guns and see if the 300mm sections can simply be fabricated in smaller sections as a couple of days of extra man handling is nothing for the MBC team imo. The best thing to do is tell the MBC guys that they CANNOT do it, and watch them then prove you wrong ?. ???

Fill the bath with water and grout. Leave it full until the grout has cured then empty it. Wipe all the grout dust off, and give the lot a good polish. Get your silicone gun out and do all the internal angles until your happy. Bingo chuffing Bango. ??

I don’t use CT1 for final / cosmetic sealing because IT IS AN ABSOLUTE FECKING PIG to work with. It really is horrible. Great for purpose, but just SO much hard work getting anything less than a small bead. Silicone is great for cosmetic stuff, and is easily removed when tired so can be redone with ease. Try that with CT1 at your peril. Anything with microban in it for ‘no black crap’ is a winner. Silicone cleans up easily too and is quite a bit cheaper.

Hmm. They just keep on about how amazing it is. 35mm including the deck is ambitious. This must rely on pre-installed insulation surely?

Who installed your unit ?

Nobody on here would hang themselves by answering that. Its an SE or an early grave.