Nickfromwales

Lets just keep this between you and I

In a nutshell, yes. It'll never get full static pressure as its only dealing with dynamic flow. Will be fine.

It will be documented here for prosperity. "In for a penny...….."

That’s pushing your luck imo. A screed at that thickness will need to be bonded with a very good primer. If I was doing a Wetroom former ‘hand-crafted’ then I would be using a flexible tile adhesive to bench it all in. ( just so happens that the next en-suite will be receiving a bespoke 900mm x 2700mm Wetroom walk-in shower test made from scratch by yours truly ). Wish me luck. ??

Just the machined sections

Pretty good numbers to be fair Let’s see what the wee beastie produces on a bright clear day. Good result.

Input or output temp ?

PM only please

If all the TRV’s are knackered then we’re pee’ing in the wind here ma’am. ?

SolarEdge gets my vote. Good inverters with dry capacitors, and long warranty. SE inverters also feature 'export limitation' so anyone unsure of getting a yay from the DNO may wish to use them as a means to get a bigger system installed.

A pressure reducing valve on the cold mains at source sound like a good solution. Even if you turn the stopcock down to a dribble, the static pressure will be the same once it equalises. You were right to bring things into the year 2000, so stick to your guns. Just a shame the plumbers didn't give you a bit more advice on the pro's and con's before getting paid and moving on. Still doesn't make them terrible, just a bit complacent.

Not entirely sold on that statement, biased as I may be. I have heard plenty of woes where there was little or no synergy between 'fellow trades'. Unless you intend to PM them and make sure that there is constant and recognised dialogue between trades, don't expect that to 'automatically' go well. It will require your continued intervention and constant double-checking that things are being executed as promised. Asking questions and including the replies in the contracts will be your parachute. Tell the chosen professionals that you will expect the systems to work, exactly as they have been asked to, as in what they promised when they quoted to supply them as fit for the described purpose. Assumptions will kill you dead, and trades will hang onto those for dear life for defence if / when you overlook things and don't cement them as the expected criterium. This can be very easy, or very hard. Many on here report varying mixed bags of results, but the information is here by the bucket load if you wish to search for it. The good news is people here have shared the good / bad / and downright life-changing ugly, from which you and others may benefit. I know I have Fill your boots

Ola! Yes, turn the upstairs ones down to 3 ( out of 5 ) and try again as the sooner they get to temp and start to strangle flow the better it’ll be for downstairs. 3 on most is around 21oC, but if your valves go to 6 or higher then choose the halfway mark. You’re just overheating the upstairs rooms otherwise. ?

Nip some of the ones nearest the pump a 1/4 turn further closed. Leave for an hour and check. Dont forget balancing gets affected by temp changes and the TRV’s opening and shutting. So fro eg, when cold you may find its a mixed bag, but when warmed up a bit the upstairs TRV’s will partially or fully shut and the downstairs one mayvthen come on. Are they all on 22mm > 15mm pope runs or is there 10mm “microbore” in there too ?

Hi and welcome to BHub. Sounds like you’re asking the right questions at exactly the right time Fabric first approach will result in lower ongoing outgoings, but you need to decide how long you will reside there before writing any cheques. 10 years minimum on most renewables is a reasonable break-even estimate, but after that is really when you start to reap the rewards. Build airtight and go for MVHR either way as you can just burn gas if it’s a shorter term plan. If you’re leaving there on your back then time to decide whether to pay the utility’s companies forever or spend that on yourself and become energy wise. Grab a chair, a beer and some Nurofen, will be a steep learning curve but worth every minute you invest in making these decisions before it’s too late to change. Its not more more expensive to build passive per se but there is far more detail and attention required. You can mitigate against a HUGE amount of that worry by going for a TF / other supplier who will take you from slab through to the roof lights. Some of these will guarantee the air tightness test results so if you’re a novice then this has some serious attraction. Leaves you with only the M&E to worry about, and which kitchen to fit Ask lots of questions, the answers are free and impartial here. Good luck

I think we should all chuck a £1 in and find out

Hi and welcome from a fellow Welshman

Disagree in part. With the PU, applied religiously as I describe and as @PeterStarck has implemented, and then fortified with the measured 'knocking in' of the masonry fixings, there will be zero issue with doors / frames / movement. That's not speculation, that's from being in these TF houses in varying stages of completion, through to visiting occupiers 6-12 months after they have moved into completed builds. There will be more movement in the mid section of the timber stud wall than the junction between floor and sole plate, so panic yea not.

Buy 5 and you'll be up 100% !!! What are you waiting for?

I just spat mine out after reading that ??? You get a Blue Peter PissHead badge for that. My sides are still hurting. Nutter.?

At 2 bar, its deffo a 500L. That'll be less dependant on being left between recharges. As, IIRC, you'll still be going for a SA for DHW, you'll not suffer the issues with irregular flow rates equating to equally irregular DHW production from such things as a combi, so the worst thing you'll have is changes in flow rate, but not necessarily in temperature. For eg, your shower would run faster / slower, but not hotter / colder. It is imperative that you take the outside tap, domestic appliances and WC's off the incoming mains supply BEFORE the NRV that isolates the accumulator, which could see you getting away with a smaller accumulator ( subject to your deemed / known water consumption ).

I REALLY need to start revising my NAPIT. Just need there to be about 27 hours in a day to free up some time ?

That's the winner folks. PU expands and fills the voids, just be sure to have a wet rag to hand to wet the timber and the floor ( as its moisture cure ). Much better than gripfill as that doesn't 'squish' out at all. If you grip fill a timber down and whack it off the next day, you'll see the snake like trail where you applied it with very little area covered. After bonding down and finishing the stud wall framework, get some 75mm Obo ( masonry ) nails and whack them through the 44mm timber until 20mm is left proud for additional mechanical fix ( if the wall is very long ).

I'm not a fan of bonding directly to the 'laminate' top layer of Caber so that's just me. Seen enough decoupled to put me off. 2-part aka fastflex / ultraflex is an option in extreme situations ( more expensive than unicorn piss ) but a good exchange HERE for your perusal.

It’s not “where does it get its cold from”....it’s “there’s my blending valve that only allows X amount of heat in” The ‘cold’ is the heated water in the loops which needs topping back up ( an exchange takes place in the blending valve where cooled water is ejected by fresh heated water being allowed in under the pressure of the pump flow ).