Nickfromwales

B&Q is my co-pilot.

Floors first. Cleanest lines possible. Plus, silicone corners is the anti-Christ.

Fight !!!

Does make you laugh tbh. WTF is the point of ticking the boxes if they’re so lazy as not to ask for the results?!? No wonder such boxes of shite get thrown up by mass builders........

+1

Best to see if your beloved project will still be standing long enough to gather data? ?

Not pressure tested? Got to jump through a hundred hoops on my job in Essex ?

You should have a G3 benchmark book for the cylinder. Either stuck on it or ( usually ) an A5 booklet that’s comes with it. That is a separate item from GSR and 100% needs to be completed, regardless if a sloppy BCO overlooks it ( as it’s required for warranty from the manufacturer for one, but also may affect your building insurance in a related claim too ). You can get this done by your GRS’d guy easily, as long as their complimentary G3 qual ( that they got with their ACS ) has not past 5 years and expired. A lot of GSR’d fitters don’t bother to renew G3 unless under duress. Don’t know why, it’s a couple of hours refresher and less than £150 ( free with some manufacturers if you’re promising to fit their products ). Needs doing ASAP.

AC electricity is not polarity conscious. You’ll get the same reading either way.

If so, stick with the insulated raft as intended. Load shifting E10 heat into the slab, to go all electric, would be less attractive without such a capacitor. To burn gas and heat via such an emitter, eg with such a short thermal time constant, would need a ‘large’ buffer tank, vs the slab + electric which would not so much so. You’d probably get away with a small low loss header / hydraulic balancer if you go Willis now and ASHP retrospectively fitted ( if deemed necessary later down the line ).

Thanks, but not generic enough to leave behind with a client. Coincidentally I bumped into a chap on the weekend at the NSBRC who fits cold rooms / wine / champagne rooms so I’m going to approach him to see if these monitoring systems are available off the shelf somewhere. I’m sure they are.

Watching with interest as I have a client that we’re installing a wine / champagne store for in their upcoming new build and it needs monitoring. Client needs to be able to see it remotely ( as they don’t intend residing there all year round ) so WiFi accessible portal would be required. Off the shelf solution is the only option where I have to depart after installation as things need to be generic / industry recognised for 3rd party repair / replacement down the line. Temp and RH are the key requirements for this instance. Apparently dry corks are not good corks

I always fit multi sensors in plant rooms / attic spaces where anything electrical or electronic is present. I also always fit at least one ‘hush / test / find me’ switch in a strategic position(s) which allow the detector that has been triggered to be found quickly. The find me function silences every other detector. The test button and hush button repeat the function buttons on the front of the detectors, which is almost a critical requirement in a house with very high / vaulted ceilings.

To clarify ( for others ) it's the brown wire that feeds the motorised valve actuator head that I'm referring to. That will be a 5-wire arrangement; Brown = Call for heat / demand - which when energised spins the stepper motor and actuates the valve body Blue = Neutral Green / Yellow = Earth Orange = Common Grey = Switched live back to the heating system ( activated by the valve getting to 100% open and the actuator arm striking a micro-switch in the head thus completing the circuit ) 4&5 can be wired either way around without affecting operation.

Basically what we need to know is, if, when the heating is turned on / off, does the brown wire get energised / de-energised ? If it does then the controls that are giving the signal are fine and the motorised head is duff.

+1

Oops, should have said repaired not simply ‘changed’. Long day yesterday.... Thanks.

Give Nick Vaisey a ring at CVC Ventilation and grab a Brink unit. PH certified on VW prices

How much is the split HT ASHP going to cost ? Let’s assume its over £2.5k.... Anything over that is money down the drain in a PH afaic now these cheap EV directed electricity tariffs exist. No sale, sorry

The rooms won’t get too hot because ( assumes ) the room / zone stats will close the actuators when the rooms / zones become satisfied. The problem will be that the primary pump and heat source will see the valve as open and keep trying to pump against a zero demand manifold. Boiler will short cycle through this but it won’t do it any serious harm. Get the valve changed, and el-pronto

I can see the leds in that pic 4 in a row to the left of the left hand orange DC transformer

With mixer outlets you need to isolate both to successfully shut them off. Remember you cant use manifold valves to attenuate flow rates, it's on or off. Pipe diameter is 15mm max. Do NOT use 22mm for anything other than hot and cold to the SA or heating circs. This assumes you dont want to do satellite manifolds, just keeping everything in the plant room. Insulate the HRC elements, otherwise just the hot and cold before the manifolds etc and heating circs. Simple, just use a pair of NRV's to allow the return flow back into the SA cold inlet. One ( single check not double check ) valve goes between the HRC pump and the SA, and one goes into the cold feed to the SA just prior to where the HRC and the cold feed tee together. I think for your instance just small bore hot feeds to the nearest basins / sinks only, and HRC to the basins at the furthest location only. Dont have the HRC doing the baths or showers, thats a waste of time and heat energy. Still unsure why anyone in a PH would go to the trouble of fitting a HT ASHP to heat a SA for just DHW TBH unless it was a huge dwelling and RHI was worth chasing.....KISS says fit a size 12 SA and heat it once a day on Octopus / similar for DHW at < grid gas costs, + zero maintenance / service by comparison. Cheap monoblock for UFH and job done.

If you have new size 9 units coming, they may well have inboard controls and status indicators on the unit. If not, then it’s the cover of the external controller that needs to be removed to view the PCB mounted LED indicators.

Can you get E10 instead so you can chunk heat into the slab outside of typical bathing times ? That may be possible if you become creatures of habit with when heat is on vs when hot water is needed.