Nickfromwales

This is referred to as 'purging' Basically you take cold mains and blast it through the UFH loops to rid the system of pockets of air that cause air locks ( which significantly reduce or even stop the water from flowing through the loops ). The reason to need to purge is that the UFH setup is designed to flow at very low lpm flow rate, so basically any trapped pockets of air, or indeed an established air lock, would never get shifted as the flow potential of a commissioned system is insufficient to push said air out by itself. I've lost track of how many clients I've been called out to with such issues, and just purging the loops all out has resolved the issue. The purging needs to be done quite religiously and when disconnecting the temporary hook-ups to perform this, you then need to make sure that no air then gets back into the system and cause the same problem again immediately after setting it all back to work! One issue, the whole arrangement seems to be upside down. If you look at every pump manufacturers literature, it shows the recommended / correct pump orientations, not one I've seen ever shows the pump pumping down . Reason being, is that air bubbles tend to get caught in an infinite loop of being sucked into the pump, the pump being insufficient to push them away, and then the bubbles want to return upwards and back through the pump when it stands still, and around that cycle keeps going. The UFH rails should be; flow at the top, and return on the bottom. @SteamyTea makes the same observation as I, as in you should really have automatic air release valves ( bottle vents ) on each rail, or at least the higher one, to release any air pushed out of the loops / otherwise accrued in the manifold rails. Get them fitted and ( ideally ) get a plumber to swap this lot the right way up

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-HOME-AIR-SOURCE-AIR-TO-WATER-HEAT-PUMP-HEATER-8KW-RRP-1499/353377298391?hash=item5246eda7d7%3Ag%3AJF8AAMXQU6tQ9u81&LH_BIN=1 Change of £1100. I'd recommend against heating anything other than an uber-performing dwelling with direct electricity, as it'll get expensive very quickly! Yup, they are pretty impressive for the size and cost! I always fit 2x on my clients M&E projects as a) they're cheaper than shoplifting, and b) if one fails you still have some degree of heating whilst you order the replacement. If you're not 'hands on' then it's best to fit 2x so you can wait for a plumber without suffering any real inconvenience.

Hi Jake. Yes, your electricians proposal sounds a practical one tbh. Without plans and an some understanding of the topology we cannot really argue either way though Basically you'd usually use a drill bit to drill a series of holes into the slab ( called "stitching" ), missing the foundations, and then chisel out the core to get the duct in to floor level. If it was a steel wire armoured cable, you really don't need the duct as that type of cable is suitable for 'direct burial' but a duct is belt and braces and favoured by many. If you cannot get through the slab ( so you are trenching outside, yes? ) then you ca just stop the duct at ground level, then clip the steel wire armoured cable up the outside wall and then just drill a hole that size to get you inside the house again. Drill uphill, from outside in, when you drill the hole to stave off ingress of rainwater

Excellent news, result! ?

Wall plate is a continuous timber at the ends of the room where the joist ends connect eg instead of cutting into the inner leaf. Joist hangers would be used in conjunction with the wall plates Why? Most will be surface mounted and boxed, but can be dabbed over. Usually not as the dab would be quite deep. Same for pipes and cables, chase and bury in strategic places, but cable chases would be back filled with parge and plumbing chases would be foamed to insulate the pipes from their surroundings. Yup. Air will travel through switches and sockets and into the chases. The stupid questions are the ones you didn’t ask. “Apologise yea’ not.”

Biggest thing to help would be a wall plate vs cutting the joist ends into the inner leaf of block. Then, a job you can do yourself, is to parge the entire internal face of the inner leaf with a cement slurry mix, applied by brush in most instances, to seal the pores of the block. Chases for cabling are not necessary if you are dabbing boards on, but the boxes will need to be recessed according to final finish depth of boards. If you do have to chase, then they get fully filled back in to maintain airtightness.

So a new roof going on? Job will be as good as the person undertaking it. The in-roof systems are very robust indeed, and the only ones I've ever heard of that leaked, were down to installer error.

Nope. That’s the wailing sound when you go through your fingers because you had your eyes closed Could be a long night ☕️?

Yup. Cheers.

https://diamondwetroomsandbathrooms.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=77_147

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For a 160mm duct ( penetration ) you mark a 300mm square, with a pilot hole, drilled from indide to out, as the centre point. Cut down the two sides and along the bottom to create a ‘cat flap’ of membrane. Cut the 165mm hole out with a jigsaw, or recip saw if you’re brave, and then foam the duct into the hole. The remaining flap can then be cut into 30mm fingers and shortened, and then air tightness taped to the duct and to the membrane. Use A/T tape to seal the open end of the duct ready for the blower test ( if not yet done ) otherwise just use a bag and some gaffs tape to stave off wind-driven rain.

BCO needs to answer that.

Too noisy. Gets my tinnitus going.

Unfortunately, Obi-Wank-Kenobi, my tiling is of a standard that makes others weep. Mill-ponds wish to be as flat as my work. Strangely, over the years, I have never been tempted to try Tramps-Piss coloured grout. Not sure what it is exactly that's dissuaded me, but may be something in the name...... And now.... time for something to level the playing field........

For completeness, the inline attenuators have a full bore uninterrupted airflow through them. 180mm hole from end to end, ergo zero influence on flow, maximum reduction of nuisance sound.

Length of longest run? On a long run, eg 7 or 8 boards long ( @2.4m per board x8 would allow for a 19m run ) needs at least two people on it. Still easy to lay wet on wet. I understand just fine, and have been laying these types of floors for a 1/4 century. If the job needs more hands to the pump to execute it correctly, then that is what I applied. Never had a single squeak from a single floor, ever. Glad that your method worked, also.

In honesty, I used to be 100% DeWalt, then they went to a place where a combi drill wouldn't last me 18 months.... utter shite. My very first DeWalt combi is still up my attic and still works, after 9 years of taking it all over the world and giving it a proper beating. I have the DeWalt 780 XPS shadowline and that is an awesome bit of kit, but the oil-filled gearbox of my Makita BL impact, which is deliciously quiet for an impact drill, is my favourite. If DeWalt do something similar I could be tempted to jump back as DeWAlt actually do some nice gear again, now. Shame I had to leave that camp due to the then offerings just being complete and total shite.

I fit inline silencers ( attenuators ) between the unit and the manifold boxes. Excellent results, and about £150-£200 for the 1000mm long ones, with the 500mm ones annoyingly close to that price. Last install I put 3x 500mm ones in, and reports are of it being graveyard quiet. 3rd one went on the exhaust duct to atmosphere, to ensure that there was no nuisance noise to the adjoining neighbours property. The flexi duct attenuator option is the cheap seats, but does start to alleviate the issue at least somewhat, however I do not bother with those now as there are better options for not much money. I would not be in the cheap seats for the one device that is running 24/7/365 and which could annoy me whilst I slept. I often get those delivered by mistake, but never fit them. More filters, more points of maintenance, and additional resistance where I would not welcome it. Just fit 1x decent inline attenuator on the supply air prior to the manifold if you wish to save money, but one on each is my entry level offering. Too little money to split hairs over IMO.

Not difficult at all, done it on every floor I've ever laid. You just need to get a wiggle on, and lay each row into each other with the glue still wet. Most rooms are leas than 7m so less than 4 boards long. Many ways to skin a cat though. Poor cats

I may be treating myself to some new toys soon......

You tuck the next board into the previous and THEN screw the leading edge of the previous board, not before. To be done with the glue wet, not left an then 'come back to it'.

Disclaimer; Please use circular saws with your eyes in the open position

Bypass the controllers. Leave the mains inputs powered up to the controllers so you have the displays up. Power the EUFH mats up directly off the fused spur that supplies the mats and sit for an hour or two to observe what happens. If the displays register a rise in temp and the floors start to warm then it’s the controllers, if not, it’s the mats. I’d say it’s the controllers as 4 mats dying together is lightning strike odds.

Almost, but not quite. Makita, is the way.....my young cr’apprentice.