Nickfromwales

I wouldn't ever put the WC on that wall unless there was no other choice, however, you and your partner can decide if that's actually a problem between yourselves Typical architect lol, drawing a curve and placing a shower tray against it!! Can be done with a D-shape tray, but the wall ( and radius ) would have to be formed AFTER fitting the tray. My suggestion would be to lose those large radius 'infinite'' / curved corners in the master bedroom, and instead keep 90 degree internal corners with 45 degree 'chamfered' or much smaller radius curved external corners. You still get roughly the same increased distance between the pinch points of the two opposing room corners, but zero of the PITA issues to resolve and effectively unusable internal radius space left by this 'initiative'. Mitigate against nuisance noise / sound by using 15mm sound-block plasterboard on both sides of the wall and rigid acoustic rockwool in the wall ( between the bedroom and the en-suite ). So; Shorten the shower tray a little and have the shower and the bath on the same wall. Fit a pocket door, so you can move the basins towards the doorway a little, and fit the WC on the same wall as the basins in the top corner. Towel rad goes where the door would have opened against, with the doorway having near zero right hand margin, eg the opening kept as far right as possible to keep as big a pocket door as possible.

Very harsh if you have anything near good cold mains pressure / flow, and so much so, that you often have to fit flow reducers to throttle down the 'minimum' flow rate, particularly when using the handset vs the rainfall head. For rainfall only, not so problematic, but I just cannot find a reason to ever choose one of these tbh.

I was half way through a ham and coleslaw sandwich. Food first, facts second ???

Yup. Simple job for a decent plumber / sparky

Distribution Network Owner(s). The owners of the cable

Systems get regularly and repeatedly topped up, for sealed and pressurised systems, so there will be a life-long influx of fresh oxygen rich water which is the reason that the inhibitors presence is of importance.

I’d only go to the 37 if you were doing DHW via a thermal store. 30 will be plenty. IIRC both modulate down to much the same minimum output so, as you’re heating via a buffer, there’s only so much heat you’ll be able to get from A>B anyways. The only time you’d ever suffer is when you’re heating from bitterly cold back to comfort temps but that’s not a regular occurrence and not worth any subsequent investment afaic. Vaillant are rock solid, but, same as with most, the weather comp is a total ball ache ( however you cannot fit it anyway because of the number of heating circuits plus you’re heating a buffer so deffo do not purchase WC equipment. I’d look at Emmeti ( thanks to @PeterW for the link ) for controls, so you get a closer handle on hysteresis, as a stat with as much as 0.5oC can cause over / under shoot. 1oC would be a train crash.

Never had a days problem with Vaillant

My negative comment wasn’t about the boiler it was about a boiler manufacturer telling me I can’t protect the rest of my system by banning the use of inhibitor. A first for me, and I’ve been installing heating systems for over 25 years. The Veissman boilers have a good reputation, but this latest nonsense with controls / boiler type selection / aversion to inhibitors etc would put me right off. Plus they’re asking a lot for it too. Give me a good old Baxi or Vaillant every day of the week.

Ask him to put flexible hoses from the unit as @dpmiller rightly pointed out. They will make a big difference. Make sure they’re suitable for the application though, eg full / large bore not the ones for hot and cold water which you won’t get a pencil through

It's a problem when you first introduce oxygen rich 'fresh' water into the system, and the problems escalate from there. No air ever 'gets into' a system, it's nitrogen that gets generated by the corrosion process that usually needs 'venting off' hence the air release valves at all high points vs an air separator per-se. Wasn't aware you could get an AS for a sealed system?

Assuming the heat pump is bolted to a frame, and the frame is bolted to the building? Then; These for each of the 'feet' of the heat pump and go from there. If that reduces but does not solve the problem, then look at similar to separate the frame from the building. and; This stuff for insulating anything that doesn't need any regular disassembly.

Thanks for the heads up, that is very valuable information for the masses For me a relatively complex, not cheap boiler which dictates that the rest of the system can just literally sit there and rot away minus the presence of an inhibitor chemical......? Not a chance!!! After 5 or so years the primary water will be like gravy, and then comes the likelihood that the subsequent high concentration of waterborne debris start to cause other early fatigue.....? Again, not exactly a strong selling point, sorry. Have you asked if there is a consequence of putting an inhibitor into the system? Warranty void etc / other?

@Hux Add another access point to the right if that’s to be a convoluted run, but the above is what I would be doing. Stuff falling from above will be fired off to the outside wall via the 135 going into the Y branch and access next to will provide a point of maintenance if it ever blocks, which I doubt it ever will due to the addition of regular cross / through flow from the other WC ( iirc ) that is off to the right?

Happy days. Much less of a ball ache ?

15mm cold at the kitchen sink should be hard water, rest of house softened if you’re in a hard water area. The rule for taking appliances alters at the kitchen sink to suit circumstance, so you may need both a hard and a soft cold feed at the kitchen sink. Typically; 15 soft at utility sink to feed washing machine. 15mm soft at kitchen sink to feed dishwasher. 15mm hard to kitchen sink cold outlet plus any boiling tap / other device which have their own water ‘conditioner’ but don’t take softened water. Simples!

15 to baths and showers, deffo, and 10mm hot and cold to basins is plenty. Most basin taps have flow restriction by design / regs, so pointless giving much more unless they’re very long, convoluted runs. Sinks ( kitchen and utility ) I’d typically do a much x 10mm hot feeds and 15mm cold feeds and attach the appliances to the 15mm colds that service the sinks. Topology affects this basic go-to plan of course and there is never a one-stop answer / solution. Introducing a HRC for long hot runs affects things further.

Tiles don’t come out of the boxes perfect either, unless you’ve spent a few extra quid on rectified edge porcelain, and then they’re not always completely perfect / flat on all 4 corners. Asking a tiler to do half bond ( staggered joins ) like you’ve done creates a pita of a job tbh so put the micro detailing to one side and tell him you’re happy with the job. Explain fully to him that you expect him to go above and beyond in the house, eg so he has a fair opportunity to stop and survey the other areas, and ask him to make recommendations for any areas which need self levelling, prior to tiling, so he has no come backs if he’s not maintained standards. Tiles are not supposed to end up like a single sheet of glass, they’re tiles. Imperfect, irregular, and lots of them.

Well, shut my mouth Why on earth have they done that ?!? ?‍♂️ Email Trevor@cyliners2go and ask if they can relocate the immersion perhaps? Bespoke cylinders aren’t an issue with him usually.

Not for that one as the immersions are both left snd right hand loaded. They slide out horizontally which is in-keeping with the whole idea of a cylinder being installed in a reduced height compartment! I’ve not seen one with a top loaded immersion as that’s probably the worst possible place for it, what with heat rising etc. Do you have a link to the one you refer to?

If you use 16mm pipes for conduits for the probes, fit proper cap ends so they don’t back fill with the concrete slurry

Also, iirc, Wunda don’t do the uber low temp pump and blending set atm. Therefore, if you buy now, I doubt if that kit will cope with the intended application. Totally agree; pipes now, cap them off with self-amalgamating tape, not cap ends, and leave for now. No. Just a few 16mm elbows to daisy chain the loops one to the next, put cold mains on the first pipe, and a pressure gauge on the last one.

Ah, that makes much more sense, cheers for that. You should still have 2-port zone valves at each manifold though, as it’s those which should be bringing on the buffer > manifold pump according to demand ( as per my diagram / wiring / valve arrangement ). It really boils down to how often the heating is on with both manifolds routinely having at least one open loop each, simultaneously, for the duration of each heating on’ period. That will decide if you should relax or start cutting.

With the PV and batteries, plus the suggestion of an ASHP, you’ll need to get rid of the TS ( thermal store ) and fit a HP UVC. I’d fit a 300L UVC. Remember the ASHP will heat the tank slowly, so factor that in. Get dual 3kW immersions fitted and then you can boost for duress. The thermal store cannot stay.

Remove the word probably. We like to keep the forum factual