Nickfromwales

Can you see displaced glue at the sides of the joists when you look up from underneath?

Can you cut it back to the 110mm stack and fit a full sized AAV? The single 50mm one will not suffice. You could fit a 50mm T and bravo off that to 2x 50mm AAV’s to max out air intake, but you really need that AAV to be 110mm for it to be effective.

Bingo.

@Adsibob You can get the slimline Geberit into a 100mm void. No issues with sound transmission as the WC doesn't back onto a habitable room Acoustic PB, possibly two layers on the reverse will suffice, plus any acoustic wool that you can stuff into the voids will help out. Remember not to touch anything that attracts condensation!! I fitted one like this for 21 stone powerlifter, and substituted the 100mm timber ( old skool 4" stud there to start with as this was a refurb ) with 100mm x 50mm box section steel either side of the frame, lined with more timber to allow the frame to be affixed iirc. Steel was also used for the footer and the header and that did not move 1mm,. even with me stood on the front edge of the pan with both feet bouncing my weight gently up and down.

We're just in the middle of dry testing a sizeable project before boarding commences. All back boxes in, all loop-ins Wago'd together and insulation resistance testing galore to be completed before a single board goes over anything / anywhere major. I like to back roll the cables at the boxes so they cannot be pushed back into the grommet and become lost in the studwork / void. Some spreads, sadly, have the brain power of a plant, and I've been back to jobs where the cables have been pushed back into the voids around the boxes with zero regard as to how they are to be retrieved. Spreads like to shoot straight across a board when skimming, so they can get things nice and flat, so anything protruding is fair game.

Captain S is on site for me atm, only have to tell him complex things once. Bliss. Yup. So very refreshing to meet someone like-minded who can just be left to work to his own devices, without babysitting. ?

Things like this usually get added to the growing stack of "good ideas", and fall to the wayside when you realise that life is too short to worry about things as minor ( even more so when there is an ever-growing list of things far more major to tend to )..... A good idea to put the offcut UFH pipes in as conduits, and simply run them to a single back box with a blank plate on, and a Cat 5/6 back to a plant / data location for 'Justin'.

You cannot solvent weld onto that fitting. It would either be a push fit manufacturer supplied connector or a compression fitting as you have mentioned. IIRC the Wedi formers have a metal ring on the underside, and there is supposed to be a chunky compression rubber seal ( usually supplied with the waste ) that separates the top of the part above from the underside of the tray a little. Do you have one?

Have you closed all of the pump isolation valves fully, and then reopened them fully so you know they're all open 100%?

Depends whether or not it has baffles / vanes inside tbh. Then it becomes flow / return / load specific.

Solar reflective glazing is very effective. I was quite impressed by just how much impact that had on nuisance solar ‘intrusion’.

I’ve specified dot n dabbing on 2 current new builds where I’m the project M&E coordinator. I’m expecting sub 0.3 ACH results from both blower tests. One being booked in presently, now the windows and doors are nearly all in, so I’ll try to remember to post the results. We’ll be doing both an ‘interim’ and an ‘as-built’ test on each. They’re both woodcrete ICF. You can do anything you like, as long as someone has a handle on quality and is there to highlight the not so obvious points of failure and mitigate against them as required; ( eg liquid airtightness membrane / closed cell foam / tapes / mastic etc ).

Oh, and have the plant wherever you want, it’s not much more work to pull the cables or pipes to where they terminate, but it is nice to get the plumbing eg cylinder / manifolds together. Nice, but by no means essential or discernibly money-saving afaic. BUT!! Have the basement anyway!! What a fantastic use of the footprint of the property, and some great extra space. I’d have a basement at a drop of a hat, pennies allowing of course.

DNO will allow you a max of 3m of exposed service / supply cable after it enters the house. So unless that cable is coming in through a sealed and watertight penetration they’ll likely refuse to bring it in elsewhere and allow the cable to traverse the dwelling to any useful extent. I got away with 5m or so once by going through a 32mm galv conduit and burying that in the centre of a 500mm ceiling void of a basement flat. It helped that the lads installing it were very young.

I’ve emailed to see if they’ll do a one off favourable rate inc P&P for a single unit “as a sample” ? Let’s see what they say.

I just happen to have one left surplus from a Nu-Heat install, where it was incorrectly specified and sent with an order.

PM me if you go to order. I may want to give one of these a whirl and maybe we can split shipping costs?

Yes. Can work well if the hot water demand is low there. There are boiling water taps which have a small tank and the water gets blended to produce DHW, just limited amounts. Probably suffice if you have a dishwasher and just a couple / small household.

If there is a lot of large bore primary DHW pipework from the cylinder to the manifold, you're screwed. Even with 10mm radial to a basin, you'll be waiting a LONG time to get hot water. BOOM ?. There goes the dynamite

I have loads of them in domestic and light commercial installations working perfectly well. Zero pumps. You just size for the potential of the main, usually taking advantage of the night time and midday increases in static pressure as the main goes off peak. Non return valve captures and holds that for use therein. Got one install in the arse end of the green belt. Shite cold mains, so 2x 200L accumulators ( so I could fit them in eaves spaces ) on a job with a knock-though extension with them adding in another ensuite. Guy was gobsmacked at how much improved the system was. For completeness, in this house they had so poor a cold mains that the existing UVC could not push hot water upstairs to the bathroom if the kitchen tap was open. You could literally hear the water going down the pipe / air being sucked in through the bath tap when you opened it. Swapped them out to a Vaillant 937 high flow combi, after about 5 other plumbers said they had to keep the UVC and forget ever thinking about a combi. 8 years that's been in, for my mates boss. Fully aware of that, but you still need segregation and a LOT of downstairs space. Still noisy, still very slow to refill / recover, and you need a large expensive pump to do what this member is trying to achieve. I'm advising as to this thread, not for general information For the OP's solution, they would need at least 3x 50 gal CWS. So where are they going to go? You also need to treat water in the break tanks as non potable in the real world, so bathing / not for human consumption only.

Ring around for best scrap prices. Should get a few ££

Oh, I forgot to say…….. ???????????

The cost and annoyance of pumps off an open vented system, with additional pipework, elevated 50 gal or 75 gal tanks minimum, maintenance and then segregation of cold and hot pumped feeds throughout the house…….. vs one pipe to an accumulator with no moving mechanical parts, no electrical connection, and silent in operation. ? Sealed and pressurised systems will have very little heat losses by comparison. You’d also need multiples of pumps and probably 2x 50 gal or even 2x 75 gal open CWS tanks in the attic / races space. They would have ball valves which makes noise whilst SLOWLY refilling the tanks = piss you off if it’s near a bedroom. ???

Weigh them in or list them for sale. They are of zero use whatsoever to you for a domestic new build.

Hmmm. A 250L TS services by a 37kW modulating boiler would just about be suffice eg for the list of hot water dependant devices you list earlier in the thread that you wish to run nigh-on simultaneously. That it a BIG ask of DHW flow rates. That setup would promote almost instantaneous reheat of the cylinder, with a great degree of heat transfer from burner to DHW. Also, a 28mm DHW coil is an absolute no brainer, forget 22mm. I would fit a bigger TS ( minimum of 300l ) or a 500L UVC. If you go UVC you 'could' go for a smaller boiler, but the cost increase is negligible for what extra oomph you're going to get, plus with a bigger max output, even at 37kW, you'll still be able to drop to 7kW-9kW fully modulated. The boiler will only ramp up to suit the demand, and, with your remit for DHW, this is the minimum system specification I would ( and already have done multiple times ) specify and install. Anything less and your wife will be chopping your two best friends off........ Thank me later To get away with a smaller boiler, if you're feeling brave, you would 100% need to configure the system for W-plan aka hot water priority where the boiler > cylinder / heating zone valve is a 3-way DIVERTER valve giving heating OR DHW, never both mixed; ergo the boiler max output would be dedicated solely to reheating the cylinder of choice ASAP. The cold mains will need to be 28mm, from the mains to the UVC control group or TS cold inlet and cold manifold, where the 28mm pipe would then tee off into 2x 22mm feeds to each ( the DHW device and the cold manifold ). In terms of flow rates you are mentioning both types of DHW devices ( TS & UVC ) which are both COLD MAINS DEPENDANT. If you do not fit a minimum of a 300L accumulator ( or 2x 150L if space is difficult ) you will never get the earlier requested DHW performance, not even a chance. In respect of the hot return circuit ( HRC ), you won't manage without it. That is because you will have 28mm primary hot pipework, cascading down to 22mm going to a 3/4" DHW manifold, and then your 15mm and 10mm radial feeds coming from that. The runs from the manifold may seem short enough to give the confidence to abandon the HRC, but the dead cold leg before the manifold will soon shatter that dream. Fit the HRC, insulate, insulate, insulate, and again, your wedding tackle remains to live another day. You could just run the HRC to the end of the DHW manifold, and just one branch to maybe the kitchen sink, and the ensuite basin tap. Enjoy!!