Nickfromwales

Yes, the over painting is to stop standing rainwater from getting into the joints and, trust me, they swell up soon enough. It’s only when people put a straight edge down do they realise how much swelling has occurred. Prevention will always be better than cure

Yup. Keep the 8bsr incoming and take outside taps off direct, reduce to 5bar and pick up WC’s and cold fed appliances, and then have the house at 3.5bar balanced. Are you fitting an UVC or a combi? Other?

No, it’s not. It’s a recommendation for extending the amount of time an installed deck can resist the elements. Specifically aimed at TF’s where the deck boards MUST be installed before the second lift can go on. As above.

Why? Does it say “Do not use this glue after purchase”? Been using it for decades and I won’t use anything else. D4 PU glue is exceptionally good stuff. If it’s summertime or a spell of bone dry sunny weather, I use a fine mist of water or a wet sponge to prep the to-be-glued surfaces / areas as PU is moisture cure and it behaves completely differently when given the required moisture ( there is of course moisture in the air, but it doesn’t get to the core of the glue so that suffers ‘pockets’, air bubbles that offer nothing in terms of gap filling or purchase ). Regardless, you’d see excess if PU glue had been used.

You can use a cement substitute such as Ardex A38. We use that in screeds to get on them in as little as 4 hours. There are others out there. I’ll message my screed guy and see what he recommends.

….but are advantages in not allowing you to cheap out and blow yourself into the next borough

Impey do similar, connecting to either 40 - 50 or 110mm pipe.

It's only linear on the tray side, the trap dos not go linear, it's just a normal round trap so you only need to do as @Mr Punter says.

A can of worms if you want to break into that space tbh. Is this extra space super important / necessary?

Yup. Twisting action rather than linear strokes etc to avoid such damage.

They basically want to avoid a situation where you have a compartment that can fill with gas, mix with air, and go ka-boom. You cannot run a gas pipe up a wall which is random dot n dabbed, but you can do that if the gas pipe is fully encapsulated in the dab from floor to ceiling. The point being, any puncture ( nail / screw / drill ) would only result in gas being discharged into the habitable space where it is assumed the inhabitants would smell it and realise there was a leak. For any other spaces or compartments where your nose would not be sniffing about, it's no-can-do. I'd argue that pouring grout ( self levelling compound etc ) down that 100mm duct after pulling the Trac pipe through would satisfy that requirement, but then they'd ask you to prove that every inch of the pipe had been successfully encapsulated. Bit tricky that one. I'd check though, as the void is ventilated so it's a bone of contention.

What is the max distance from wall to wall, where you can tamp the concrete with a timber beam?

Jesus. Ouch x 20. However, we may have found somewhere for the 2024 Buildhub volleyball championships.

Let’s see what the OP says will be the plan for the pool and then we can properly rip into him lol. ?

Could you elaborate re the water source?

Unless even poorly covered ( with a building of sorts ) then the expense will be eye-watering to keep this warm, forget hot. Ouch. My advice would be about 15kW of solar thermal dedicated to just this, with excess diverted into the domestic hot water ( DHW ) cylinder, so at least it’ll have the chill off it for most of the year. Heating during the colder parts of the year would need a direct ‘pool’ ASHP. Did I say ouch?

Hi and welcome to the forum. From what you’re saying here, and above, you may already have the horse and the cart the wrong way ‘round MVHR cannot be ‘on the table’ if the intention is to go for air tightness that is excellent. You’ll choke on your own fumes without MVHR, for one, plus to be “green” or “eco” ( terms often used very loosely, and more often with a complete lack of understanding of what that is supposed to deliver to you in this reasonably unique build ) you will 100% need to be actively recovering waste heat for re-introduction through the MVHR system! Building control will demand your as built air tightness ( ventilation / infiltration ) results to be sure you have adequate numbers of air changes per hour. If all the above is known, how do you propose to meet those requirements? Make the house AT and then fit loads of trickle vents? ?. All these questions need firm and robust answers BEFORE pressing ANY more buttons. I’m currently providing M&E for such a dwelling ( pool etc ) and the design work was enormous. The pool hall will need its own envelope as the dehumidification and heat recovery system typically runs at a slight negative pressure to preserve the build fabric, therefore it should not be able to ‘share’ the air volume of the residential section of the dwelling. Forget recovering heat from the pool hall, as every ounce of that will be absolutely needed to maintain the temps in the pool hall!! How big is the pool? Is it a pre-fab that you are “dressing” into the house Lots and lots of things here will impact on the others, so measure twice cut once ?

Hi. If space is at that much of a premium you can get an inverter which can be mounted outdoors, with just the ancillary equipment indoors ( isolators etc ) which may solve the issue. Or go for panel mounted individual ‘micro inverters’ which will just require a controller.

“the project will significantly enhance its immediate setting and be sensitive to the defining characteristics of the local area”. My arse it will

AKA pretentious prick.

As is in so many instances. And with unjustifiable uplift in cost often without a wink of an eye. It would be a very different profession if they became responsible for creating budgets and were penalised for going over!! The best part is how little useful involvement they have during the build. Instead, it gets left to the likes of general builders to dig them out of the shit as unsung hero’s. And we keep on paying them because the human race is just so lost in its pursuit of this importance of what others will think. Can you imagine if the builder announced this uplift? He would have been launched out of a catapult. Beachside a “god” provoked it, they’re all chuffing smiles ffs. Goons.

I’m just entering my 3rd decade of bathroom installation ( coordination these days mostly ) and I haven’t ever needed a strip like that. Have a read of the thread I linked from back in the day. It’s quite well detailed there how I install trays and formers, so fill your boots

Do NOT fit that trim. It will cause you no end of problems, plus you cannot trim it against the shower cubicle. I gave up using those 20 years ago after all the comebacks. ??????

Have a rip through this and see if that saves a bunch of typing ( please! ). ??

200% Not necessarily. If the builder / contractor delivers a pragmatic agreement that means they can complete on good time, using quality products and retain time for a quality fit and finish, then they are definitely the right person afaic. If you cannot afford the price, then the journey ends there. Go get a QS and a reality check. By the time it comes to reassessing, the average client is balls-deep and past the point of no return. Often the man left standing becomes a punchbag, and the focus of the anxieties and frustrations that follow. Add to that, a diminishing profit margin ( at the expense of this thread ) and it’s game over for everyone. The point had been made, but I often think it’s the contractor that should properly protect themselves against the client at least in equal quantities. It’s usually the clients first and last significant project, but the contractors profession which they undertake full time. Who should be worried about who in that scenario?