Nickfromwales

I would stay up and fight, but there's finally something good on TV.

It's shite like this that doesn't even closely resemble an alternative view. And as far as 'touchy' is, I'm 47 and have nothing to be touchy about these days, just this forum is usually on a higher level than what you've just put out. I stand by my statement. Just words, remember, and my "alternative view" seeing as were apparently to one if it justifies lacking of factual information.

Those with a F****** crystal ball!?! We are in unprecedented times for this building generation. Horse manure. I'm on the ground, purchasing right now and for the many months since lockdown "ended", and the these "knowns" are drastically worse than anyone anticipated. More to the point, the cost increases have only become really bad, relatively recently. Probably best to stop "contributing" to this thread now me thinks........ This thread cannot survive on such narrow-minded garbage. And no, I've had a perfectly fine day.

KISS is the way forward Electricity is abundantly more useful than an ever hot DHW cylinder all summer.

It is only in the last 3 or more months that the effect of the pandemic aftermath has started to significantly affect materials availability and the "supply and demand" uplift in costs. So yes, very harsh, and quite out of touch with what is actually going on in the industry to boot. Yes, and that shan't be absorbed or consumed by anything as it is there to offset time and paperwork / accountancy fees / fuel and time between merchants / time on phone sorting procurement etc etc, so no to anyone assuming "we" should just take money from our pockets and help 'hard done by' individuals building their dream home. Sorry, NO SALE. Homeowners have TV's and are aware of such things also, so those 'playing dumb' can also take a hike. Customers would be on "us" like a tramp on a kebab if they read that materials had gone down in price ffs. Self builders......live by the sword etc etc.

Put some gaffa tape from the wall to the tray and pour a kettle over it. If the water makes its way left and right of the 'defect' then makes its way into the tray I'd say don't panic. If there is a constant pooling of water there and the stagnant water does NOT make its way into the tray then a possible case for a return as unacceptable. Even the most expensive trays have such manufacturing defects, and it's about averages eg where the defect occurs and can you live with it? If it falls as per the small level shows, and then carried on to the left / right and then naturally makes its way to the drain then I'd say you'll be fine. It's all designed to be soaked constantly for 10-15 mins x number of times a day at the end of the day. Tanking and sealing the upstand as I mention in other threads is all the insurance you'll need AFAIC.

External blinds will be an effective way of reducing nuisance summertime overheating, and, even if only for a handful of weeks of the year, will prove invaluable in making the dwelling comfortable to live in during those periods of peak / excess solar gain. If you install a 3 phase inverter then your electrician will not have to worry about loading up the phases in balance, as the inverter will simply push the juice into whichever phase wants it, whenever it wants it. That’s the easy bit!! Consider SolarWatt with a modest DC battery system if you have a sizeable PV array ( size? ). What thickness of concrete slab will you average? I’m not fully versed with Kore.

Don’t blame them. Why should a contractor take money out his back pocket and gift it to someone to build their home? I’ve drawn a line under it now, and will absorb 3% max ( so a 6% uplift is 50/50 between the client and my company ) but after that the client pays or takes a hike. The uplift is not the fault of any contractor so expecting them to be met regardless is just a ridiculous stance. ? The client gets to hold onto these things, and enjoy them for the duration and not the contractor, so get your hand in your back pocket and stump up!!! The construction industry is on fire atm, and contractors will just migrate to the next willing client, so beware playing devils advocate as good trades will just move on and then you’ll be left with the barrel scrapes. That’s a step backwards not forwards, so no savings or value there, quite the opposite.

You can store it in the new shed…………..

Because it’s not black any longer silly!! ?

Design work is classed as professional fees. They are correct to charge you VAT as I do. Zero VAT comes with supply and fit packages.

Don’t forget to identify Earth, Neutral and Live(s) with G/Y, blue and brown sleeving.

Going from 3 core to 4 is pennies. I’d do that just to give you options. I’d Earth the SWA and use a core for dedicated Earth to fittings. I’m a bit OCD so take that with a pinch of salt.

The expansion allowed in the buffer is for that alone, so, just to clarify, you still need the aforementioned expansion also.

Ingress of water will be your worst issue, so test everything and then flood the junction boxes with resin to mummify everything for life. Smother the exposed outer of the SWA with dense silicone grease or possibly Vaseline before pushing the shrouds on. YouTube videos will give you the remainder of the info you need to get this done.

Most of the audibility issues are when the system is boosting, but the boost causes the entire system to run at the higher rate so I’d heard in bedrooms for eg when a shower is being used elsewhere. A lot of the fan noise can be reduced by the fan not labouring against the absolute smallest ducts you can get away with. Less resistance vs same flow rate = quieter system. Some are more convoluted than others so results often vary.

Hmmmmm. Ive just done a Brink Sky 150 for a very small ( annex ) dwelling and the ducts to atmosphere and manifolds were in 160mm. 125mm is the size associated with a decent cooker hood. Not sure this will run very quietly.

Is this supply and exhaust for an MVHR? If so, this is very small diameter duct for a whole of house ventilation system. What is going in, and what is it doing?

It’s a new invention.

Scrap the lot and fit an UVC ( invented cylinder ) to future proof you and de-bug ( lol ) the system for once and for all?

CW glands = SWA ( steel wire armoured ) exterior type glands. You must use SWA for the backbone of this arrangement. Wiska is a make of good quality robust junction boxes. Wago connectors are modern replacements of choc block ( screw down terminal blocks ) as you aren’t supposed to have them anywhere where access to them is difficult or impossible. Wago’s are considered maintenance free. Stuffing glands are cable entry glands which you tighten up to make a weathertight ( not waterproof ) seal onto flexible cable. Use SWA to go box to box, then use as short as possible pieces of HO5 flex to go the actual fittings. Piranha nuts are larger nuts that the ones supplied with the SWA, and have an Allen head grub screw to make off the Earth cable to. That is often easier ( as it is more compact ) to use than ‘frying pans’ aka banjos which also come with the SWA gland pack. They need nuts and bolts through them to clamp onto a lug which is fitted to the Earth wire. Quite a convoluted method vs the piranha nuts. Google these things to see for yourself.

Coincidence or not, but I’ve just mentioned Duravit. They do a coating called WundaGliss ( spelling may be wrong ) which does what you’re looking for. I would bet that other brands offer similar coatings / refinery. Some brands to consider would be Duravit, Geberit, HansGrohe, Grohe, Vado, V&B and possibly RAK.

18L should suffice, but I’d prob go larger just to reduce the frequency of ‘topping up’. You can never have too much expansion imho, so I’d prob go around 24L.

The actuator needs to travel to and activate the internal microswitch, so yes, no go = no show. If it jams in the hot water position then the heating can come on when DHW is called for, and the cylinder stat will be ignored. Design them out at the outset by all means, but you can't tell someone to delete one unless the full ( existing ) system requirements are identified and understood.

Yup, deffo 28mm.