Nickfromwales

This is an example of folk not involving an M&E early on in the build process. All of my projects have the steels Pre-drilled for MVHR and FW/WW etc and permissions in place for drilling through glulams. Can you ( have you thought to ) petition the SE to ask if you could have the steels penetrations done retrospectively? In other projects I have reduced the 92mm ducts to 25mm x 225mm rectangular ducts to get up inside the service cavities of an MBC TF and that negated a lot of unsightly boxing in. Don’t know if that can help you out with some of the runs, or maybe going from round to ‘oval’ ducts and mechanical 90o bends etc.

Very easy if you're dull enough to put it straight down onto a dry floor and to not put it where the lowest point is and systematically work the layers back up towards the high point. @BrianCork94 Tell this guy to put more leveller down and to do half the fall starting at the lowest point. 6mm or so over ~3m should not be noticeable.

To protect it against EVERYTHING lol. Including the unknown.

Make yourself a box out of OSB / PLY, fill the inside with bubble wrap, and slide that over the manifold to keep it in one piece.

He's a man after my own heart. I would deffo divert to a small buffer or LLH when in 'cooling mode' instead of having a big cold buffer. Should help to control potential condensation issues. I am looking at using 2x 3-port diverter valves to switch between devices per 'mode'.

Defrost cycle simply fires up the HP pump. only, and the water from the buffer is used "in reverse" eg it is then the HP which is 'heated' by the warmed water in the buffer. Pump flow ( direction ) stays the same, as confirmed above.

The use of hybrid HP's is to get you warm. I'm not talking about regular HP's so the argument / situations would be very different. The idea being you'd only be using the absolute minimum amount of fossil as possible, but have the opportunity to employ a HP for the shoulder months. When it gets baltic and a typical HP would then 'max out' without providing enough heat input, you employ a hybrid to get the best of both worlds; electricity based heating to a point where the SCoP is still sensible, and then fossil for when it is unavoidable. That gets homes off fossil only heating, so the CO2e will be minimised as much as is practical.

The controls / weather comp / when the oil or gas kicks in etc is one of the main topics I wish to discuss with their Tech Support guys, ( when I get 5 mins spare!! ). Hoping for a degree of synergy on that front. In terms of when the hybrid kicks in, that will be nothing to do with prices of energy? That will be decided for you eg when the house is cold and the HP cannot get the house temp up so the burner will kick in to supplement / take over. Cost will be what whatever they will be, as you will simply need it to do whatever it needs to do, whenever it needs to do it, in order to maintain the desired internal room temps. You won't really be able to able to strategize that much tbh, so probably important to oversize the HP to make sure it does as much as it can before burning any fuel.

I've been fitting their oil boilers for decades, never had a single failure. Very robust bits of kit. Am currently looking into their hybrid LPG and oil ASHP's for some clients builds which 'aren't quite there' in terms of airtightness / thermal detailing etc.

The tee is "equal" so flow from the HP pump can go to either the buffer, the UFH or both at differing potentials without any issue at all. A typical CH system h as multiple tee's all the wat through the arrangement, and no problems there that a bit of balancing doesn't put to bed.

With the 2 pipe buffer you can usually get away without the secondary circulation pump that would be required to get flow to the manifold pump. Less components and a more simplified install. I typically go 4 pipe with LLH’s and 2 pipe with buffer tanks. The arrangement you show offers both hydraulic separation and energy buffering, so I would run with exactly what you’ve drawn above. For the defrost, afaik, the check valve will not cause issue as I don’t believe the pump reverses flow for that (?) Anybody?

Just remember to sleeve the pipe when passing through structures with a cavity, sealing the open ends of the sleeve on the side which would allow any accumulated gas in the sleeve ( in the event of damage ) to escape to atmosphere or the ventilated space.

If it’s a ventilated void, just pull a copper pipe through and it’s perfectly fine as is.

In that case just purge with cold mains after the manifold is fitted, as per the normal commissioning requirements, and treat with inhibitor via the magnetic filter when it has all had a 48hs leak test. The only time biocides are ever used is in GSHP slinky’s when they’ve been down for some time, and that is to stop the decay of the glycol from any possible contaminates that have ‘taken up residence’. Relax, you’re fine with a cold mains flush

Less stressed is best

JTM sell them too Carry on as you are, and this is what I did when I wanted to fill and test at slab level. I didn’t want to fit the manifold in that instance as I feared it getting damaged. If you think you can mitigate then buy the manifold now and fit it, saving the loss of the cost of the fittings

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‘We’ve’ had very “strong indications” regarding the near future of this market from some quite robust industry sources. We are now discounting any ToU considerations from any new ( holistic ) enquiries due to the gestation periods involved. Eg from time of enquiry to time of install is where we absolutely need to focus our diligence, so what we offer now still “does what is says on the tin” when the time of installation and commissioning arrives .

I’ll pm you.

I knew I shouldn’t have started this “In for a penny” lol.

No we won’t, because you’ll keep mentioning these numbers when telling everyone that you only use 8p of DHW a day

FYI. Ground mount over 9m2 needs planning permission.

You can add links here, in line with T&C's. Fill your boots. Dust needs blowing off sometimes, like this thread has now provoked these replies

Yup. Even people who already have these tariffs will find they are on borrowed time.

When the sun / lighting shines down a wall, you will see every joint and junction. Taper edged boards are only tapered along the lengths and not the width, so any time you want to use off-cuts you're then stuck with applying tape to surface and then filling atop that too, results are that the line then stands proud of the finished surface of the boards which you are hoping to just paint. To lose these 'bumps' a good 4-6" all around needs to be feathered out with Easyfill / Toupret and the whole area sanded flat to try and hide / blend it in. Try it, and you'll soon wait for a plasterer to become available. My advice is, get it plastered, or accept a poor finish and loads of repetitive heavy elbow-work to get it looking poor.