Nickfromwales

Yup, 12-15 even 18 months is about correct. The info is out there alright.... I've even posted links to it on here showing the sleep function. They do both AC and DC versions, just to confuse you even more lol. The DC is my favourite, as it allows you to load it up to the hilt without incurring the wrath of the DNO, eg allowing you to go to max allowance on PV kWp. For completeness, I am personally going with Iconica Hybrid inverters with AGM batteries, as any "brand name" battery is overpriced / unrealistic economically in terms of RoI vs useful lifespan ( IMHO ).

Waste water can go in a 32mm pipe tbh, if it's a single appliance, but with the number of bends and the distance Bruce is right, go for 40mm to be sure. It is a very simple job, and just needs the existing kitchen out of the way and new pipes run along at skirting level for cold feed and waste. Remember, if you buy the right condenser drier you will find on the rear a couple of silicone hoses. These can be disconnected to allow the condensate to drop into the washing machine upstand trap eg you will never have to empty the water collection tray

. Way too much water, so there's nowt left of the paint. That's why it's failing and the surface is powdery. Rub the wall down gently with an old towel and start again.

Buy a 10L tub, roller a trial wall yourself, see for yourself

Just spoken to a DNO to arrange 3ph for a client. No need for specific info at that stage, other than expected loads / combined max microgeneration output etc, and were awaiting a decision currently.

Better than my shed 😭. I wish I’d insulated. Tbh, I’ve only feather-edged one 1/4 so I may pull that off and just stuff the 4x2 frame with rock wool. Either that or pour vermiculite into the voids and just remove the top couple of planks. Anyone know if vermiculite has any reasons to not use it? Do vermin like the stuff etc?

Where is this supply going in to? Hogwarts? 🤣

In a nutshell

I wouldn’t bother insulating hot feeds tbh unless they’re on an HRC.

Technically yes, but only your BCO can give you a final answer for your dwelling. We can only procrastinate I'm afraid. I would install one on the edge of the living room ceiling tbh. 3c + E yes. Regular twin and earth from CU to 1st detector. I'd be looking for 3m distance away from cooker / oven / kettle etc so as to not get nuisance alarms.

Funnily enough I offered to dance for them, purely as a distraction tactic whilst my mate stealthily inserted Boron rods under her chuffing sofa in an attempt to get the old dear up to the required 28oC

That will tell you immediately what has done what

Indeed. I dearly miss my home cinema, gone since getting a neighbour in our semi. 😭

If the frame had dropped 10mm you'd have cracks the size of the San Andreas fault showing inside and out. That looks like poor installation of the door frame, eg lacking support in the bottom corner of the frame where all the loads sit. Have you had a spirit level on the door, door frame and threshold, both horizontally and vertically, to see which thing has actually gone awry?

I installed a new gas combi for an old biddy and her spinster daughter. She had me go back, complaining that the living room would not get warmer than 21oC. My friend and I arrived and walked in, and within 60 seconds were both lathered up with factor 50 and stood there in pants and socks, as it was like a sunny day in Dubai! The daughter had bought one of these weather station things from a petrol station and sat it on the marble fireplace, which had a gale blowing up it, and was on an ice cold outside wall ( mass produced bag of shit house btw ). I picked it up and placed it on the lady's coffee table next to where she was sat. As I was getting my arse chewed off about how the old boiler ( same kW rating, same radiators etc but now all flushed and with new TRV's ) was "so much better than the new one"...... After 5 minutes I pointed to the weather station doo-dah and it was showing 24.5oC. We replaced the central heating system, but what we couldn't replace in that house was the lady's central nervous system

100%. With Atmos you're either in or out. Pointless going half-cocked tbh. These need to be via dedicated speakers to get any actual effect, and I'm about to start installing cables in a clients build ( dedicated cinema room ) to do just this. Atmos effect will be delivered via a pair of flush Kef ceiling speakers, small enough to be as inconspicuous as possible as they do very little. Sound bar should be lower, and take up so little room it shouldn't affect SWMBO's requirement for space below a correctly positioned TV as there would still be room above it?

Are people still watering paint down? Leyland paint from Screwfix / B&Q etc will sort this. It's specific to new plaster and "high opacity" for maximum 'obliteration'. I've used this for year now, and 2 coats in the same day on new plaster leaves you a surface that looks like its had 3 or 4. The secret is not to use a labourer who thinks hes paying for the paint to apply it !! Get plenty on the roller, and apply it nice straight lines in rapid succession, overlapping and back-rolling ass you go to ensure that you leave no tram lines behind you.

Then its the wrong solution for that dwelling. You should not feel anything like that in a house with a correctly designed and executed UFH installation. UFH flow is obviously running way too high, but is probably doing that to keep the rooms at temp. See if they can make some improvements to the house to reduce the amount of heat that the UFH then has to provide?

+1. I've just specified 40mm PIR thermal break / upstand for a client where the walls will battened for a service cavity, PB + skirting. There will also be a 10mm foam expansion skirting at the edge of the slab to allow ( the miniscule amount of ) expansion. Pennies to add the foam skirting, so better to be belt and braces. Not necessary where you have a passive raft, but very necessary where you are pouring slabs within 4 boxed in sides and the slab may wish to push out in all 4 directions.

Usually no sale or return due to the dates on the gas, so what you have left over is pretty much dead and goes on gumtree or marketplace here.

Power tool lol. You’d be there for a week with that hand tool

Ah, just a bloody expensive low loss header / mini buffer tank. Do you have any UFH?

Ring shank only really necessary for fixing the racking boards for structural strength, or fixing deck boards down onto joists. ‘Bright’ nails ( plain shanks ) have a glue sprayed onto them which melts with the heat from the friction of being sent in at speed, so try one and then try pulling one out. You’ll see how good the glue is when you get a miss-fire and try to hammer the nail in the last 20mm. At first it wont want to budge, and some you’ll bend the nail over before you can send it home. Best advice is to get some good speed clamps, with rubber jaw covers, to help you line the wood up before firing the nail. You;‘lol see why when you get going . Just because its easy to fire a nail, don’t go mental until you’ve pinned top and bottom, then have checked the middle of the timber is still lined up nicely, before nailing the middle and then fill in the gaps. You’ll also need a recip saw with a long fine metal blade to cut through nails installed in error. Buy yourself one of these LINK as they’re a great bit of kit. The pointy ‘claw’ is designed to be hammered in under the head of a set nail to go hunt it out for extraction. Used @Russell griffiths one and then went straight to the tool shop to get one. Cracking little addition to the toolbox.

OK, so you will be keeping ( replacing ) the hot water cylinder for excess PV diversion to hot water, great. What is this ‘magic heating box’? Can you show us pics as I’m at least very curious. Name / make / model etc? Cheers.

Yup. Robust bits of kit. Require a high number of turns also to go from 100% open to 100% closed, and need a bit of a "pinch" at the end of the rotational operation to be sure they're fully closed, so actuators wouldn't work with them.