Nickfromwales

If the restriction is the device ( outlet ) then whatever pipe you fit, as long as it provides the minimum amount of water or more, will suffice. 15mm or 22mm will only deliver the potential available at the mains, after the stopcock / NRV etc, so a little academic imo. Fwiw, I have never piped a shower in 22mm pipework, ever, and have done more high-end / “luxury” bathroom installations than I can remember. Pretty much every one of those reported “fantastic” showers as an upgrade from either electric, gravity mixer, or pumped mixers. The only time I can say that this potential arrived at the shower head was when I installed customer supplied free standing steam / shower units ( cheap Chinese junk on a good day ) or again anything produced outside of the EU where there was little or no attenuation built in by design. These resulted in horrible, coarse, almost unpleasant jets of water flying out of the shower heads / sprays etc and the handsets become so violent that they tipped backwards in their holsters or came out of them altogether. And guess what? I had to install online flow restriction to calm than back down Also, that amount of cow makes the shower very noisy, in both the emitted water bouncing off walls and floors, but also when it’s travelling ( squeezing its way ) through the cheapy outlet. I’ve got shower runs in in a good few new builds where the runs are all 15mm, with good quality outlets ( Vado / Hans Grohe / Bristan etc ) and zero problems - zero complaints, and some on runs in excess of 25m, some longer. One of the big advantages of running Hep2o from manifold to outlet is the ability to run with long swept bends in one continuous run, thus making these runs the least resistive / convoluted runs possible, with the only acute bends / connections being at the outlet itself.

🤢🤮 and if not, wash it down with some frogs and snails……. Wtf 😳.

Yup. Flow can be stupidly low, but still give you the heat you require. A lot to do with the type of emitter though, eg thick vs thin ( slab vs screed ) will perform very differently.

Especially if they’re vegans lol.

Of course. Us professionals cannot possibly allow you, as a newbie, to get this right first time now can we?! So; OK. The rest bend will eventually fall off. Do as Bruce says above, and clamp that well. The shoe on the bend is supposed to be where the thud gets arrested, but that’ll be off before you know it

Yup. Not life or death, but every little helps.

You know too much, so we build in some insurance with your project

For any I insulated pipes yes, if using on insulated pipes you’ll need Talon clips plus Talon spacers or the pipe won’t be far enough from the mounting surface to allow for the insulation.

I don’t use clips, I use all round band, black powder coated. For the HRC I use 25mm wall 22mm bore Climaflex and then a 50mm waste clip works perfectly.

100%. I am now fully committed to using local PIR’s to activate the HRC pump. I also use the same PIR’s ( via a luxury sensor ) to trigger Pee lighting after sundown ( dusk to dawn ). Two birds one stone. Top of the kitchen plinth is where I install a stealthy sub-miniature PIR for HRC at the kitchen, with the sensor about the size of a £1 coin.

I only consider condensation on the cold ( far worse in winter ) an issue, so insulate the cold runs if I think there’s going to be any chance of a problem. For the cost, it’s something I’d go for tbh. On the hot runs, waste of time afaic, unless you’re running an HRC.

The biggest killer of pushfit pipe is linear scratches caused by pulling long lengths in through cut various cut / drilled holes and notches which are sharp / abrasive / or worst, have a nail or screw in that you've not seen. Pushfit fittings rely on the outside surface to create the water-tight seal, so be very careful to preserve this during 1st fix.

Dynamic pressure and flow will be affected by the size and distance of the pipe vs what is deliverable from the main that it is tapped off. It matters a lot. especially if the local mains is shite and you wish to preserve ever ounce of potential from it. No idea? Maybe the thread title should have been "do we need to upgrade to a new mains connection" Have you experience of this service performing well? Can you do a static and dynamic flow / pressure test before we get any further into this discussion? Defo, if it's up to par. Whilst machines are on site, it's a no-brainer to dig to the boundary and replace the incomer to MDPE imho. If there was a dodgy stopcock at the pavement, occasionally vandals would strike ( after we'd all left site ) and the ancient brass stopcock would be turned off so tight, by the vandals, that the head of the tap would get snapped off the shaft. The water authority would then have to come and replace that U/S stopcock to a nice new 25mm MDPE one, and connect the new 25/ 32mm client pipe to it, within a set number of hours too Bloody vandals couldn't have timed things better......

My mate had an Armstrong 399, 2 stroke single, left hand kick. At 17, I weighed in at around 7 stone soaking wet. I kicked the bike, it kicked me back......ouch. Thank goodness for my Axo's or it would have broken my leg I recon

Depending on the size of house / number of bathrooms, afaic a 32mm connection would be a no-brainer, as long as it wasn’t hugely more expensive? As urban areas get developed, the water pressure will head downwards, so consider future proofing too. Length of pipe run? Lots of variables to consider.

+1 to all of the above. Glad you're on the mend.

we'll need a high pressure 22mm feed to wash your mouth out, young man! (expletive deleted)ing penis.

Not after I boosted the cold mains with an accumulator, and increased the cold mains backbone to 28mm No rubbish on my shift mate Stopped at 2 as one bathroom was in the garage annex and was sporadic / guest use only, so it was agreed to leave as-was so no re-tiling / plumbing was needed in a recently finished bathroom.

FYI, you can have a 1000 solar panels and a lorry load of batteries if you go to a Hybrid inverter with all the panels and batteries on the D/C side vs all A/C coupled which requires grid ( DNO ) approval. You sound like you are looking of both EPS and UPS ( Emergency and Uninterruptible Power Supply ) which you CANNOT have with the majority of the of-the-shelf A/C coupled equipment, as these are required by law to 'island' during power cuts. I myself will be having UPS & EPS at my own house imminently, with all panels and batteries on the D/C side ( so no begging to the DNO ).

Yup, and Yup. Your terminology seems a little jumbled.... PV have inverters, not EV. EV = Electric Vehicle? Please repeat your last, as we cannot advise until what you seek to achieve is understood properly

Hope you're going with Beamshield / other for that B&B deck? Cold ventilated sub-floors are the last option if I specify a foundation system for a client!!

Ask them if they can provide you with 2x 1ph connections off that tranny, or whether it would need to be upgraded to glean the 3rd connection. I've seen this practiced in a good few places where the original connection had been exhausted and a second ( same ) phase ( or L2 ) added. You just have a 3ph head and L1 and L2 are off the same 11kV tranny, so you get 2 lots of 80a or 100a off L1 to play with. Usually one will go to the domestic CU for all the normal stuff, and then the second goes to EV, or even 2x 7kW EV chargers. As you already have a 100a connection the house CU could still take one 7kW EV charger, ( the rest of the UK are having these routinely retrospectively fitted so should not be an issue, your DNO only care right now as it is a new connection / service alteration! ), so you could link that to the PV for use in Eco mode for trickle charging, and then swap the car to the second phase for faster charging or to charge EV#2 etc, on the basis that it would never have any meaningful input from PV anyways, so you can strategize the bulk EV charging that way. Just means adding a second EV charger. It depends on the loading of your ASHP, as the DNO's still shit the bed when you mention one.......even though a big electric shower is a far worse enemy in terms of shunt resistance / constant power consumption. Most modern ( inverter driven ) ASHP's are soft start, and then modulate down significantly after start up. That's dependant on the type of dwelling you construct, and the types of heating emitters you're intending to use. Ask for a second same phase and see what they say. A few years back I did a big system overhaul on a 5/6 bed house with 3 electric showers and all electric cooking, in the main house, and also all electric cooking in the granny annex in the apex roof of the large detached garage. All of that was running off one 60a 1ph connection. Two of the showers were 8.5kW, and the one in the en-suite was 10.5kW!! The 60a fuse survived on diversity and that everything was never actually on at exactly the same time. I then had 5kW of PV installed and the DNO didn't bat an eyelid, approval was instant, but I had deleted 2 of the 3 electric showers for a wet system by then. DNO didn't know about that, or care, as it was retrospective. For some reason they go nuts when it's new works......

F*** Me! You're building in Gravenhill then?

PMSL Nearly choked on my coffee. I can see the new ad campaign on TV...... "You can do it when you Orange Spunk Bob it".......

To use it in a sentence; "You two are a pair of wonkers". Hope that clears things up?