Nickfromwales

I’ve been competent with complex 1ph and 3ph electrical design and installation projects, in both the domestic and the marine environment, and am taking delivery of my own panels imminently. I’ll be completely honest, even MY arse is twitching over the DC-related-death likelihood. I’ve had more AC shocks than I can remember ( memory loss probably caused by these lol ) and only one got me worried, but DC is a different beast altogether. As an aside; It would be such a shame to die now, as my children are 11, 13, 15 and 18 years of age now, and over the last few months I’ve started to become quite fond of them…….

Yes, just trying to be pragmatic before the Shipyard kicks in

Are they optimised? If not, beware of getting frazzled installing these during the daytime. The real risk is going + to - per panel in sunlight, or the then elevated risk of connecting a string and getting quite high DC available across the sum of the string. Pretty serious, life changing juice available per string. If you make the single core DC cables off to the rotary isolator first, then lock the isolator in the off position, and work back from there up panel by panel you will reduce the risk ( not eliminate it ). If you have any doubt, please do not carry out this work.

System sized for near zero dependency on grid, ergo nothing to export.

And a very spectacular thing when done poorly…. If you could section each area off and install screed rails a-la @Onoff, and make some robust straight-edge’s up, you could get it close enough to use SLC after the initial ‘pour’. If you plan and strategise then this is doable, but do not even DREAM of trying to get the lot down in one go. Try one area first and see how big your balls remain What are the sizes ( LxW ) of these areas? Possibly make a straight edge up for the widest room first, use it there, and then you can retain and cut it down for each smaller floor.

Another pedigree thread for the archives….

Yup. I will dump into AGM’s or DHW preheat cylinder ( TS with a DHW coil feeding cold inlet of combi or diverting straight to hot network ( Caleffi valve to be fitted ))

Wait until they go on holiday, and then order 40t of hardcore to be ‘gifted’ upon their driveway. A gift once recounted by a few B&B owners who decided to club together and buy one old hag a ‘present’ for slagging all the other B&B’s in her street off anonymously on ratings sites, and then telling someone who then decided to share her secret. Bingo Bango. 👊.

How long a pipe do I need to access volcanic heat from the earths core? Just asking for a friend…..

Hire a proper cyclone vacuum, as they have the various staged filters for fine dust, otherwise you’ll be cleaning those baby vacuums out every 15-20 mins.

Yanks and Aussie off-grinders bury decommissioned fuel tanker trailers as thermal stores for summer harvest / winter yield, so absolutely can and is being done. Would need to be massive to succeed, but temps of countries that have done this must be of relevance?

I think everyone on here should sponsor you with £1 to fund it, and see what happens 👍.

You can get 80+ out of a split I suppose the thoughts were aligned with how ‘we’ charge a passive raft with heat here, just the slight issue of additional waste heat losses from the TS become a deciding factor. Could still reap benefits from a dwelling which has PV + ASHP but little or no medium to store heat energy for slow release. The TS may well be a good candidate if you went with a low-temp monoblock ASHP, and have already installed smaller radiators? If for space heating only, consider no TS, just a small buffer, a high-temp split perhaps?

It may just need the cartridge commissioning also. Installation manual will tell you how to do this. It’s quite simple, just needs a screwdriver or Allen key. 👍

Check if hot goes into the left side of the shower by leaving it go cold, then run it with your hands on each side of the pipes where they come into the valve. If right gets hot, it’s reversed flow.

I’ll be dialling my 2x hybrids back to absolutely zero export. 24x 360w Solarwatt panels incoming. Getting twitchy now. My electricity meter is digital, but lately I can hear it grinding away as it continues to mock me and my delays in fitting my PV. ”My day will come, my flashy red-lighted friend”. 😈

Leave it alone, and mummify it with HT neoprene insulation. Same result, less iffy behaviour. Go to pub.

If there’s glycol, drain down into buckets and pour it back in. And don’t let the dogs drink out of them ☠️

😂. “You got this” as the kids say….

Does your ASHP cycle the heating after a bout of cooling? If not, I’d say the 3-port valve is passing when ‘closed’. Installing a 28mm anti-gravity valve may also help as that is quite an adverse arrangement in terms of mitigating against such a problem, eg it completely relies on the zone valve to stave off 100% of the reverse flow. You may benefit from a zone valve on the return of the buffer to resolve this long-term. Are there gate valves ( isolation ) on the buffer? If so, try closing the return one and see how that goes.

It just gets tacked on with a few nails / screws and the plasterboard screws go through both and into the studs. An online example ( random grab ) LINK so you can check out their website to give you some ideas of the different products that are available to tackle this problem.

I will ask again. Was defo the case with the french doors. Thanks for that.

Rational windows are fully factory-bonded, which I learned recently. Smash a window ad you’re into removal / replacement of the entire unit. Anybody know if this is practiced by other manufacturers? I am told Velfac are not factory bonded units.

Yup, and that’s why we use the string where there may be a risk of it dropping / slumping over time.