Nickfromwales

Defo use the rest bend for a long radius return from vertical to horizontal, as there will be a lot of oomph needed to get the dolphins along the straight horizontal run and out to sea. Have that rest bend going immediately into a 135 Y branch, with the branch off to whichever side is open for access, with the branch not flat but just set up maybe 15o to ensure nothing gets left to sit in the internal ‘mouth’ of the branch. Into that unused branch outlet you then install a 110mm rodding access cap. If you ever need to ‘empty out’ you can just grab the branch and rotate it to get the branch facing slightly downhill, then simply ask the most annoying relative / visitor you know to hold a large bucket whilst you shout instructions, telling them how many more turns on the cap before the magic happens etc. You could make like easier by doing all of this in 150mm, if you’re going to use 150mm for the horizontal run? That way, the friend or relative can get their forearm in to manually grab any problematic item. 👍

Bugger. Just spotted the compression onto pushfit, which I despise, but here it is catastrophic. The ballofix isolation valve does t have enough depth to get the insert and the olive in far enough to be robust. That one, and any others like it, need cutting out ASAP. This is especially problematic if the pushfit is JG speed fit pipe , but I can see a hep2o elbow there so it’ll hopefully have the very thin stainless insert. Sorry, but another issue to add to the rectify list……..

None of those things! High opacity Matt white emulsion, a couple of coats, and then sand that down to a finish.

One of these With one of these shoved in Change of £5

Rubber insert and a cleaning eye?

The only issue with battening off one wall, is that it has a knock-on effect to the perpendicular unit runs, as in they must all move forwards with that unit too.

It’s functional, so no case anyhoo….. Maybe chooses from recommendations from friends and family?

Link You’ll see the full bore isolations have a much fatter body than the poky little ones. When they get removed, as to see inside one You can’t fit a pencil through one.

Fingers crossed for the third!!

Actually kudos to @Jeremy Harris as I quite liked a lot of his ideas for his first setup, much as you have there, so I built on that as a ‘game changer’ in how I thought things through. He had the exact same combination cylinder as you’ve installed, but then ditched it due to the significant latent heat loss, using a SA instead. I’m very much still learning / improving myself btw…. Such a great forum, just for the diversity of the members and their knowledge and comprehensive feedback, which is simply gold dust.

Removing the back of the sink unit is normal play for me, so I can properly clip all the pipework to the sold wall vs the crappy bit of 4mm hardboard. If removing that gets you what you need, get the machete out and get it gone. Soon be too full of Ajax and MrSheen and 4 candles for the back to be seen anyways

Jesus Christ! Get them all taken out. Ticking time bombs. Stinks of a lazy plumber who’s used those to save draining down properly. Seriously, they all need coming out.

Turn the Allen head grub screw. DON’T touch the nut! The seal wears out after a few years due to the ferrous particulate in the water eroding it. 30 years of fitting them

The ballofix valve shouldn’t be of CH pipework though. I hate seeing them used. Should be ( if absolutely necessary ) full bore valves, not a ballofix, as they are very narrow bore and are usually used for isolating hot / cold feeds ( mains pressure ).

Ah, OK The plumber has fitted the balancing valve, and you’re staring at it Grab the circular chrome cap of the valve that side and unscrew it. Bingo

Read the MI’s…. If it doesn’t state that removing the shart euro plug will invalidate the warranty then doing so cannot be enforceable.

Do you have a pic of the isolation valve please? Do you mean they fitted a ballofix valve? One of these?

I’ve just got off the phone to them……… Answer: Because they are a bunch of cocks

The actual number of clean cut ends I’ve de-burred in my career is close to zilch. Detrimental effects to date? Zilch. Invite a dozen plumbers in to your home and allow each of them to install a section of copper, and see what they do……….. As long as your pipe slice ( rotary cutting tool ) has a nice sharp blade you’ll be fine. I do, of course, expect you to ignore absolutely all of the above and meticulously de-burr each and every copper section you install, and I will salute you for doing so .

It “can” be sealed up. Just would you want to do that? I’ve not yet had to delete an overflow in over 25 years of plumbing / bathroom / kitchen fitting, so I’d say find a way to keep it tbh.

Yup. Was probably for adventitious airflow / ventilation for an open flue gas appliance of yesteryear. Getting rid should have no adverse effects afaik.

As was I. Knee-jerk was to dump the wasteful open vented combination store and just go to an UVC for collecting excess PV for summer DHW ( keeping the dual TMV DHW arrangement which I like a lot and will use at mine when the UVC goes in prior to my gas combi ). BUT……. Seeing that the combination store is also the buffer for space heating, and that the space heating demand will be waaaaaay lower than what’s needed at mine, I now get it. Hats off, results speak for themselves Tres Bien.

Why not just do this properly????? Plastic is NOT meant to have a metal olive chew into it, and I’ve said this a number of times here. Put the zone valve on to a short piece of copper, so the compression setup is 100% concrete solid, and then simply use a pushfit coupler or elbow to convert from copper to pushfit. Bombproof. Compression and plastic should not appear in the same sentence, EVER. 👎

I always use Hep2O ( Hepworth by Wavin ) and use zero hidden joints. This is achieved by running multiple dedicated runs aka radial plumbing. A manifold for hot / cold resides at the hot water device with all of the isolation valves in one place vs at each outlet. Series plumbing uses a lot of joints so you can tee off the main pair of hot and cold pipes as they make their way from the hot water device, but this typically loses a lot of dynamic pressure / flow unless the start of the run is in a much bigger diameter. Causes a huge delay for getting hot water from basins etc at the end of the run, and is also very wasteful due to the amount of cold water that needs to be discharged before getting hot water there. I use copper and brass at the source, and Hep2O form distribution.

You’ll thank yourself later. Cost of a months re t to find another contractor would soon pale into insignificance when retrospective repairs either stopped you moving in anyways, or cost several thousands to correct whilst you were living in it. Bite the bullet, not great news I know, but these guys are just crap.