Nickfromwales

FWIW, I think satellite manifolds are a bad idea.......unless you have a mansion and a HRC 👎

Defo do NOT run 22mm radial runs, unless you're using a hot return setup? The delay in getting hot water out of the basin taps would be painful. Those would be huge dead legs, and very very wasteful in unused water having to be first discharged, and then the amount of lost DHW left to go cold in that increased volume of dead leg the same. Bear in mind that you'll only ever be using one outlet at a time, so a 15mm feed, fed off a primary manifold from 22mm pipework, will be more than suffice afaic. Also bear in mind that most modern taps / shower valves etc have a max flow rate restricted by manufacture, so you can only get a certain deemed flow rate out of them anyways, waaaaaay less than a 22mm pipe has to offer.

https://www.toolden.co.uk/sealants-adhesives/expanding-foam/illbruck-fm330-pro-foam-air-seal/?gclid=CjwKCAjwwL6aBhBlEiwADycBIKWh4ubIGY3fLagkvxIwGvtNY7ewq8l_B-raIo9dzrYYVfYbgKUAlRoCKoEQAvD_BwE You don't need to use much to get an airtight seal, but I always squirt some in between the individual cables to get a good spread of foam and all surfaces 'coated'. If there's room, slide a redundant piece of 20mm flexible conduit in amongst the cables, foaming / taping the end of that., leaving about 200mm of conduit hanging out so you can grab it and pull it out. Get you test done, and then just pull the redundant conduit out and plug the hole it leaves with more foam, or insert more cables into the hole it leaves in the original squirt of foam, and add more foam as required / necessary.

+1.... in a nutshell. Kind of a pointless pursuit imho, but the question was asked Switch the heating on, balance it all out at the switch on, go to pub, drink beer.

If zoning, of course you then add another facet to the scenario where certain loops go from 100% of the available flow, to less or zero flow, which then changes the dynamic at the pump. This can be managed without intervention if an ‘intelligent’ variable-speed pump is used,

I had a ritual burning of my school requisite scientific calculator, and not when I left school.....but 3 days after buying it. OK; The restriction comes from the resistance against flow from each loop, unique as each one is. Balancing is required; when one short loop decides to allow the pump 'power' to simply run via that loop, ignoring all the higher resistance ones, as we all know about the path of least resistance etc etc........ aka "bypassing". So, if out of 10 loops each is 10% incrementally more resistive than the other, bear with, I've been drinking, then the one with least resistance would have 90% restriction, the next 80% and so on until the loop with the least resistance is 100% open. Ergo, the potential available from the pump would be equally divided amongst all of the loops, so they would each see the same l/p/m flow rate. What you would then do, is look at the loop lengths vs m2 of area they command, and then go at this again to incrementally increase the amount of flow the larger areas required, eg to ensure the correct amount ( fair share ) of heat energy was transferred to those loops which had the most amount of 'work' to do. Therefore, the restriction for the loop with the lesser duty would be high and vice versa. Hopefully this makes some sense, if not, could you quickly drink 3 bottles of reasonable strength IPA and then come back with your next volley ?

None are typical, they're all the sum of the installation parameters? Length and size of pipe, number of 90o/180o turns, rated power of pump and so on. Hence the reason each UFH manifold comes with a set of flow gauges that are adjusted during commissioning to balance the system according to its unique characteristics.

Let me remove the confusion Separate the two systems out to simplify things for you, so the solid fuel circuit first; One ( metal or GRP ) F&E tank fills with water and that floods the pipework / stove / cylinder heating coil. From that body of water you need a vent pipe, which needs to rise up and over the solid fuel F&E. This arrangement needs a minimum 'head', the distance between the bottom of the F&E tank and the highest point of the system ( the top of the cylinder heat coil ) to function safely and reliably. This means having that cylinder coil and the F&E tank plus vent in the attic is a flat out "NO". The second F&E tank you have propels hot water, and may also provide a balanced cold feed to say bath taps / shower valves, so this needs to be surveyed, identified and addressed in any upgrade proposal before even getting a green light to look at which cylinder suits / goes where / how to pipe it all up. The water from that F&E tank comes out of your taps, either directly as "tank fed cold" or via the hot water cylinder as "gravity hot". Right now, it doesn't sound like you can do this conversion, if you wish to keep the solid fuel > DHW facility, sorry, unless you can relocate the cylinder that functions with the solid fuel setup, keeping it lower down within the property?

Are you sure it isn't GRP, and not plastic?

Jumper it is, then 2 jumpers when it gets really cold

Honeywell or Reliance are the industry standards. Defo have the outside tap directly off the rising mains, and then the primary PRedV. If the pressure is that good, I would have a dedicated cold feed going to WC's and appliances only, and have that at 4 bar, and then T off after the stopcock for a secondary PRedV to service the house / bathing at 3 bar. The combi is a "cold mains dependant" device, so anything you can do to preserve the dynamic flow / pressure to it ( so thus to DHW ) is a pursuit well worth the effort. Consider the Vaillant 938 heat store combi, a cracking machine with very good rates of DHW flow. They've got 2x 7.5L hot water storage tanks in an insulated jacket at the rear of the boiler, which gives DHW outputs similar to an unvented cylinder. They stick out a bit, so check you have the depth ( basically it's a 837 combi mounted onto the jig which houses the tanks ). Have had two 'OK' showers running off one of these, also where the mains pressure was very good / high. Plumbed a dedicated 22mm cold mains feed direct from the stopcock to the 15mm inlet at the combi for max results. Would be perfect for you unless your DHW demand is normal / low eg 'OK' showers vs a decent blast!?

Hi and welcome. First off, you’ll need to make a building control application, and that will then mandate the minimum levels ( thickness ) of the insulation you will be required to install. You’ll need that from your BCO before anyone can advise much further tbh.

Which you can now appoint to someone new, who has more brain cells than a plant

Yup. Also the Eddi has a manual override so wouldn’t need any fettling.

Yup, you must feel relieved to know they’re not going to be wrecking anything else from herein. Good man !

You just take the live in ( feed from the fuse board that goes to the diversion controller ) and connect that in parallel to the power in of the immersion timer. Then take the power out from the timer and link it to the live feed from the diverter where it feeds the immersion. Simply acts as a bridge across L in and L out, picking neutral and earth up from the same point of origin as the diverter.

Indeed. Hence;

The air quality and humidity will become hugely problematic if you do as you suggest. Try opening the trickle vents to 5 or 10% of their capacity and revisit. Is this a brick and block cavity wall dwelling? Cold or warm roof?

It’s what is under 100’s of 1000’s of floors, but not ideal tbh on a ‘new’ job. Some sort of water / vermin barrier is recommended, such as the 50mm of concrete cap. You can get a concrete lorry to deliver this ready mixed and just have 2 barrows to relay it from street to site. The lorry will need to be ordered to allow for the wait time for you to hand-ball it in, unless you can get it poured straight in and then just rake it around?

Basing my comments of your sub floor being very flat and level, if not you should use a self levelling compound to get this to a decent enough standard. Then, for the areas with laminate; If it were me, I’d go for the XPS as your moisture barrier, and would take no chances there in assuming the floor already has one. The moisture levels would be very different when the surface is no longer exposed to atmosphere so going by that isn’t a very good yardstick afaic. Then, go for the 10mm fibre for additional heat insulation. You buy insulation once, so invest now, save on heating bills long-term. For the areas with LVT; You’ll need a liquid damp barrier, and then to make this up to the required depth ( height ) with a self levelling compound. The LVT needs something under it that can withstand point load / impact, and none of the products you’ve linked are suitable for those areas. If you can buy the LVT which comes on a backer, so it’s like planks, then go for the thicker XPS so you’re insulated and moisture barrier protected. Remember with the XPS to tape the joints with a suitable tape to maintain the barrier.

……… you’d like to fix the ASHP ctrl so you can heat DHW via the heat pump? One of these if not; LINK

I’ve read that twice, and haven’t got a clue what were being asked, sorry Is this for use in a house? On site as an alternative to a Portaloo? You’ll need to add some more detail please!

PIV Use the ugly spray foam and just look at the metal beasties vs looking up!?! 🙄

I know of many heavy smokers who lived into their 80’s and beyond. Extreme cases can be demonstrated all day long, but the actual flow / velocity etc required, constantly, to create these issues simply do not present themselves in the high majority of domestic installations.

For heating, I only ever use gate valves or suitable metal seated lever ball valves. For potable, eg hot / cold water, see the link I gave a few posts back