Nickfromwales

Again, this can be managed, but you'll need a buffer if the areas are zoned. I also am considering much bigger buffers for longer single 'burns' and storing heat created extremely cheaply from ToU. Doubt the CoP losses would be that significant in real life, given what I've witnessed to date on live installs.

It's looking quite good to me atm! May be the reason this ship has been left drifting out to sea, lol. The peel & stick is far better to use to form the 'cup' for the cill detailing imho, so yes, run with that. I have been detailing this very thing with 3 current client builds, and the consensus is to mesh and render the reveals beforehand as a belt and 2 braces approach. The render systems, as I learned recently, are just about the only thing the BBA state will adhere long-term to EPS in ICF systems and stay adhered, same basecoat which then goes externally for the rain-screen / render system. It's pointless adding things which stick or goop that needs to bond, unless the substrate will allow a robust purchase that will last the lifetime of the build, so yes, you're absolutely A1 in getting this planned ahead, meticulously. Nudura have issued this detail primarily to fire rate the internal reveals, a thing some overlook when blinded by the seemingly most pressing concern ( water ingress ) but they have issued me a statement last week stating that I could just install the mesh, then install the windows, and then render the reveals. This was a chosen path for getting a robust surface in which to apply foam and tape ( foam better than Compriband here as ICF doesn't really need deflection mitigation like a TF would ), but certainly if you could render out first, then this would give you a great surface for the peel and stick to adhere to, plus give a continuous impervious surface to the flat / bottom ( and lower edge of the sides too ) opening of the reveal. The more I see of this and the further I get involved with detailing this on behalf of folk, the more I cringe, considering what I've seen, done by others, to date. Keep plugging away, as this is one area where the devil is very much in the detail.

Just get a continuous layer of dab running the full width at 750-950mm off ToC, for the base units to be affixed to, and the same at x height to take the wall unit fixings.

Tell them the room will become a cupboard. Cap the pipes. Instruct BCO to delete it. Simples.

Devices which extract condensation have a condensate tray, this has a drain pipe, and this discharges the water to a drain. You have 1g glazing atm, or 2g ?

or unless it's mitigated against with a suitably sized buffer.

I wouldn't worry about deflection here tbh, as the weight will ne supported largely at the 4 corners. The only thing I don't like is the fact it's rather 'loosely' nailed, whereas I would have used construction screws to join this lot up. Would have helped to stiffen things up considerably.

Have you been at the cooking sherry again?

110%. MVHR here will be nigh-on useless imo. I turn these down tbh, as I know it's the wrong thing to do.

Voice-activated space heating...? Hmmmm.... "Hey, Siri. I'm sweating my bollocks off here!".

It could have gone into the concrete, but not the end of the world. I've recently done one with the same spec, but persuaded all involved to ditch the screed and drop the pipes into the constructional slab. Works like a whopper of a storage heater if you heat the core, but will possibly be a bit more responsive if atop. Different horses / courses etc. I'm also bewildered at the constant detailing of this errant DPC, and see it with Velox, Nudura, and Isotex. My 2 cents is as above, EPS in non hygroscopic so pointless afaic.

Apologies, I seem to have missed this! They are screwed at the very ends only, and are floating for the full length. The screws go through the vertical battens and into the ends of the horizontals, with 2 screws in the pattern of a 2 on a dice. I cut the horizontals a mm or so oversized so they are a nice tight fit, and used 4x80mm screws.

Yup. I always spec a rising cold main at the kitchen sink, if the primary one rises in the plant room, so there’s no wait for raw, cold water. My main concern was, if there were to be any hot returns they’d need insulating.

I install Geberit, and they make a shallow profile frame that will sit within a 100mm ( typical 4x2" ) stud wall. Would that help? Not sure if Grohe do one that thin.

Only consideration I can think of is if you need to insulate the pipes?

Will the 15mm pipe push up into the ceiling void at all? You need around 40mm of movement to get these coupled.

Just remember if you insulate and lay carpet you'll need something to deal with point loading. Can you be persuaded into installing engineered floor or tiles? Will save on the depth and cost of the wooden deck board to go over the insulation.

Much better one here for £112. LINK Plumber will charge more to come out and condemn the existing one. Time to put good money after good, especially if you've been having trouble before.

Is any electrician going to charge less than£80 for a callout? I know I would be more than that if I was called out to a property to give an hour of my day ( thus deleting a full working shift from my diary ).

You could possibly get away with retro-fit overlay UFH here if the finished floor is a porcelain tile, as this will make the floor a much better emitter of heat. Carpet will always make this a no go afaic. This will always be a very poor installation, with elevated running costs, so seriously consider sticking with rads.

https://www.vpsunderfloorheating.co.uk/product/prowarm-pro-digital-remote-silver/

Looks like it’s supposed to read “Err” aka error to me. As @ProDave says, if you can remove the controller and connect to the wires that feed the heating mat / wire to a bit of wire with a 13a plug, you can fire this up directly for 30-45mins to see if the floor heats up. No longer as it’ll be missing thermostatic control!! Please feed it with an RCD earth protected lead to keep this process safe. Do you have an RCD in the fuse board? If so, we can rule out an earth fault with the heating mat / wire.

Currently engaged in Amersham and Ipswich, so defo an area they'll cover. Let me know.

You could hybrid this and put 100kWh of batteries and 100kWp of solar, as it would all be on the DC side and 'invisible' to the grid. They's only care about the size of the inverters and what they have been set to discharge into the grid. That can all be set to zero export via the export limitation software. With 3ph, you can simply set each inverter to allow 3.5kW export and get the SEG ( using all registered / approved equipment of course ). Register as nothing, they can mind their own business. I'd split between the 3 roof elevations, covering East, South, and West which will give a very long 'solar day'. I'd not put a massive system all due South as it's a lot to consume in a shorter period of time.