Nickfromwales

First thing to check. Turn the system off, let it go 'cold' and then switch on at max. See which of the flow and return pipes get hot first to eliminate reversed flow to one of the two manifolds. Opening the TMV's should increase flow on both, so something strange going on there.

They do, sometimes surprisingly, say yes. Always ask

English Brothers have not bowled my current clients over, but there are no perfect TF companies ( given all that I’ve seen ). MBC TF seem quite steady, with ups and downs to boot, but each instance yields the best final results I’ve seen to date. I’ve worked on both of their passive offerings a number of times ( PIR + wool and Warm-cell blown frames ) and am very impressed with both. The Warm-cell blown frames win hands-down imho. Graveyard silent ( resilience to outside noise ) and huge thermal time constant with excellent decrement delay. PIR filled frames and roofs do not compare very well at all, again imho.

Hi. Your drawing uses the same CAD package as I’ve been using for the last 20 years…… Crayon Aided Design 👍😎 I assume it’s a combi boiler you have as you don’t show a cylinder?

My work here is done….✅

Combination ‘appliance’ traps are horrible gurgley noisy things. Can you get a washing machine up stand in there to take both discharges? Link You simply fit a compression T into this and create 2x up stands for both discharge hoses to ‘poke’ into. You can go ‘posh’ and fit one of these; Link on top of that single up stand to be completely silent ( very close to ) during discharge. A client of mine has recently employed a 2nd fix plumber, and he’s connected their washing machine to a combination waste and it’s noisy as feck. 👎. A good reminder to never do that.

https://cvcsystems.co.uk/our-products/brink-flair-400/ 750 x 650 x 560. I fit these on every single one of my M&E projects. Excellent results and reasonably priced for what they offer / how they perform.

For completeness, you will not, I repeat NOT, be putting in the gulley pots that the fannys have recommended. 👊.

Nope. We use a waterless trap for connecting things which don’t discharge daily / weekly. https://www.toolstation.com/mcalpine-macvalve-1-self-closing-valve/p26058?store=JT&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAiApvebBhAvEiwAe7mHSFZxKSNNne-U_rdi4E9jpOrsCTjoaEruvU6gpyuCuMDJ7XT1oiycNRoC8kgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#full-desc Commonly known as a ‘fanny’ trap….. ( your M&E guys should be familiar with that phrase ).

Woodcrete is not sufficient for screwing things like kitchen units to. You can install strips of plywood, and put lots of screws through that, into the woodcrete and over a much bigger footprint, but not directly afaic. It has pockets where there is great purchase for fixings, and then voids with naff all, same as the Velox build I’m on atm.

It will either be capped or have a 110mm AAV atop. The connections to it will end with traps at appliances / outlets eg no pipe work directly open to atmosphere. 👊

They mix up definitions there, so their statement is essentially cannon-fodder. What they refer to is a single rising foul pipe that terminates at an appliance without 110mm ( or any ) need for ( or presence of ) air admittance. For eg; You can have a foul connection to a ground floor WC which simply has a pipe rising out of the slab that a bent pan connector is then fitted into. Then the WC pushes back onto that pan connector. Job done. The gotcha is, that at, or lesser than the aforementioned 1.3m, you will not get sufficient vacuum in the vertical pipe ( caused by the flushed water / solids forming a pellet and sucking air downwards behind it as it falls to the invert ) to require full and proper air admittance on that particular connection, or indeed cause any detriment whatsoever. If for eg, you repeat this on the 1st floor, when you flush and the pellet heads south, there will be a significant vacuum created behind the falling pellet and any traps, plus the throat of the WC itself, will all be sucked dry. That then leaves stench to enter the room via the foul connection as the trapped water in the traps is no longer there. So; If the external groundwork’s are very deep you could still require an AAV on even a ground floor WC, but NOT if the invert of the outlet of the WC and the invert of the external soil network are at, or less than, 1300mm apart. Note, the term invert refers to the lowest point where the flushed items turn to horizontal after falling vertically down. ( in a nutshell 🌰). Stub stacks are normally seen boxed in at around 1200mm off the floor in bathrooms of yesteryear, and typically will have a removable top / panel to gain access for service of, a full 4” ( 110mm ) AAV fitted atop the stub. These are often introduced where there is also a basin, or a shower / bath / sink connected to the same rising foul pipe. These need to be protected from the vacuum, so a knee-jerk AAV on top of the stub stack will be fitted for ‘Justin’, sometimes even if completely unnecessary. Best to identify where these are necessary so as to avoid ugly boxing-in in bathrooms etc. Justin case.

Hi. You don’t need an air gap internally, more a service void for pipes and cables etc. You can get liquid membranes also, such as Passive Purple ( check out Intelligent Membranes online for more product info / suitability etc ) which can go internally. Other than that, it sounds as though your on the right track. What nasty stuff is currently in the cavity? Beads or wool? If wool, that needs professional removal first, as this can have problems later in life which you may not be insured against if not removed ( and certified ? ).

Or, don’t listen to the bell-ends that gave you that advice, and install stub stacks and NOT chuffing gully traps. Will save considerably on dog food also.

Get one of those angry dogs that over-salivates, and get it to dribble into it. 👍

225mm posi’s leave very little space for services, so beware. If you look at the chord depths, and discount 2x from the overall height, you’ll see that you’ve around 120mm or less, and a soil fitting knuckle will just about, or if less won’t, fit in there. Have you planned your M&E layouts / large bore pipe runs yet ( FW & MVHR ) ? Leave the steel alone and get deeper joists would be my advice, unless your services are boxed in above / below the joist voids….

Tell the professionals that the water in the trap will soon evaporate and stench will be coming out into those spaces!!!

Yup. The installer should have been shouting that to you from the rooftops! Best to install a multi sensor vs just a CO detector afaic.

First fitting off the stove looks to be upside down? Shouldn’t it be female down facing over male spigot? This shows a female union with the socket upwards instead of the spigot upwards.

The problem will be the significant start-up current required for a pump of this type. That’s why 230v breakers got pumps have to be C rated, so they don’t trip out on start-up. An UPS will need to be specified for the load, so beware of that when considering / ordering. It may be a good idea to have a much smaller auxiliary pump set aside for this, which can just run constantly for any such “doomsday” events.

https://www.anchorpumps.com

https://www.pumpsukltd.com/water-pump-type/submersible-water-pumps.html

Usually better to have individual room controls for each bedroom, so the ones in use can have setback temps and lesser used rooms can be mothballed at lower set temps. One stat for all upper floor rooms can be quite indiscriminate, particularly if one bedroom is south facing and another to the north. Very different needs then.

You can get a wireless relay, but you’d need one that sends an on then am off signal ( flip flop ). Check with the various big names to see what they offer. Oh, and avoid Honeywell EvoHome like the plague. Unreliable bag of 💩. Order of events; Room stat sends call for heat signal to manifold wiring centre. Wiring centre opens the actuators for that zone. Then sends power to the manifold pump and closes a relay on board which goes to the 2-port valve brown wire. Motorised valve opens over around 8-10 seconds and closes its integral micro switch once 100% of travel has been achieved ( eg valve is fully open ). Orange and grey wires of the motorised valve ( out of the 5 cores ) get connected together by the micro switch. That gives you the control that tells the boiler to fire. You either keep those volt-free, or feed with 230v and send whichever ( via a cable ) to the boiler call for heat terminals.

If Harold fell into a bucket of t*ts, he’d come out sucking his thumb.