Nickfromwales

It was to cap off the feeds properly, as most installers aren’t happy just putting a cap / blank on the underside of the manifold ergo a bit of pipe and then a 16mm cap end gets fitted. Odd that they did not just supply / fit the correct manifold for the application? What gives? First thing to consider here, is; what is the kW of heat input required at the time you wish to invest the heat from electricity? If you go all the way and add 2 x 3kW Willis then you’ll get far more meaningful reinforcement. You don’t seem to state if you wish to fortify with the Willis / GO! or stop the oil from burning altogether? You can take a bigger supply cable from a single 40a circuit, and then take that to a second ‘mini CU’ supplying 2x 16a MCB’s to 2x Willis. Or you can cut into the meter tails and add the second CU there. Plenty of options tbh to get 2x Willis in, or even 3x IMHO if you’re going to do this, it should be with a view to stopping oil being consumed. You’re just not going to replace 12kW of input with GO! Unless you add more Willis units. Certainly something i would not write off as a possibility if the long-term economics say this is a robust pursuit

It depends ( is dictated by ) the gross internal space ( volume ), so that will set the commissioned values, but 225 vs 330 seems way to little a differential to me. You can run at the lower ( inaudible ) rate and monitor, room by room, you ppm for assuring that the system is functioning at the minimum basic level, eg removing CO2 / humidity at night when the house is at its lowest demand / adversity. Uplift in number of occupants etc will command what you do from that base value, but will ( and usually is ) then down to some degree of human interaction / forecast for the next level of fan speed required to suit that particular circumstance. Many run the MVHR much lower than ‘recommended’ without issue, setting the flow rate back for a ‘good nights sleep’ in particular.

I’d prefer bent tap connectors straight onto the 2 taps, if not a monoblock. Then the pipes / flexis won’t be on show.

Why buy those when most basin taps come with flexis which screw straight onto a 1/2” thread? Is it a mono block tap or traditional 2 tap hole basin with ‘normal’ taps?

Yup. That’s the norm on every one of my installs 👌👍

Yup. Fit and forget with Hep2o. Use a bullnose T ( 10x10x15 centre ) so you have 15mm coming off the tee, then you can go to chrome and compression onto a stub of copper. For the basin I’d just leave a neat recess out of site with the 10mm pipes ending in 2x 10mm M&F bends with 2x 10x 1/2” Hep2o vs brass adaptors, and the flex is from the taps straight onto those.

Hell no ! Naughty step for you. I’ll let you know when the 30 mins is up.

Just remember the SA PCM58 ‘melts’ at 58oC, but SA recommended a much higher input temp to get a decent recovery rate eg kW absorbed vs time to satisfy the stat with the SA fukllt recharged. A low temp heat pump will give 65oC at full wallop, with poor CoP, and still recharge the SA quite slowly. In winter you risk freezing of the HP when running high temps for extended periods. A true high temp HP will be a split, with a noisy, obtrusive indoor unit chattering away ( fine if you can lose it somewhere where it isn’t a nuisance ) but having seen installs with these fitted I am not a fan of them vs a monoblock. A monoblock will heat an UVC perfectly well with a good CoP, but that will not be the same with a SA. These are hugely inefficient ( overall ) when being heated by an external heat source. SA are best being heated via the in-built immersion heater. *Then comes the caveat that if the immersion heater fails, the ENTIRE SA has to be removed ( at your expense ) shipped to SA ( at your expense ) repaired at their leisure ( whilst you have ZERO DHW at home ), and then shipped back and re-installed by you ( at your expense ). Won’t be a saving on the comparative energy efficiency then, and will take about another 2 decades to give you a return on the already huge period for RoI. UVC from Telford ( and some others ) = lifetime. *And that’s just if the immersion fails.

FWIW, I didn’t like the system without the C channel, as it just didn’t feel like it would take a person falling hard against it. The amount of leverage from the top of one panel to the base rail is immense, and when I then spotted the C channel had been retrospectively fitted I tested it again and it was rock solid with prop 5-10mm deflection if you really really tried to move it. Full confidence WITH the C channel, but without it, I wouldn’t fit this in my own house.

I’m on a job atm where the same system has been installed on their balcony. They’ve gone with a top ‘C’ channel to bind all the panels of glass together, but before this was installed the deflection was prob 15mm if you really pushed / leaned onto each panel individually. The bottom fix of your channel is just utter garbage, and knowing what they were fitting this into / onto, your installers should have asked for a footing under those bricks with stainless threaded bar embedded, then the bricks drilled and laid over the the threaded bars afaic. 8mm 0r 10mm wedge anchors set in every 400mm may cure this, but unless the bricks have been seriously well installed and bedded in with a continuous, strong, mortar bed then the weak point will become the bricks themselves. As it is, you should refuse it instantly and get the area rep from this manufacturer to come to site and work with both you, and your installer, to get this fixed properly.

Depends if it has a window really, because of water in the cistern and running water / damp towel from hand washing in what is a very small compartment. In this situation, any extraction should suffice afaic, but doing as I stated above would get the best results from a low down extraction point as the incoming air would be coming in up high creating at least some turbulence within that compartment.

Could always put a transfer grille above the door and leave very little gap at the bottom. Then airflow would be from top to bottom, as best as.

That is supplemental extraction, not fundamental extraction. Would go WITH the main extractor, not replace it.

Do you have planning permission for the >9m2 ground mounted array? Do you have a hybrid inverter / DNO permission to add to the PV system?

An UVC is cold mains fed ( the force of the cold mains pushes the hot water out, so no pumps / gravity / F&E tank(s) required ) so you would get balanced hot and cold pressure throughout the house if you go fit this type of conversion. Some pics of a previous clients install with a 250L horizontal Telford cylinder. With a system like this, your showers would be much better ( and longer ) and you can have dual immersion too. I’ve added a pic of the end where you can see the immersion.

You will struggle massively to replace the bulk of stored water provided by your current cylinder tbh. To go to an instantaneous water heater for your needs would require 3 phase, as the single phase ones are utter garbage for flow rates. Do you have an electric shower? Do you have an attic ( where I assume your F&E tank(s) currently reside? You could relocate the cylinder, replace with an unvented cylinder ( UVC ) amd go horizontally in that attic ( if there’s room to do so ). No magic little gadget is going to do this I’m afraid, other than the 3 phase Steibel Eltron 27kW instant.

I actually convinced myself that the link was incorrect, but when you see prestige TF ( passivehaus rated ) companies using EPS beads, and raving about the results, then you start to reconsider your own knowledge. Criticism accepted, and I’m very happy to be corrected. I was actually going to respond with my opinion of EPS and PIR being quite acoustically ‘transparent’, wish I had now. A lot of PIR SIPS type roofs are very noisy in the rain / hail etc, so am happy to change what I said, as this is a rolling thread on a public forum, where members reside here free of charge. Please take what I say with a pinch of salt folks, I’m only human. Expert? Just a member on here, same as everyone else, and here to pick up info and learn on the way ( whilst sharing stuff where I would consider myself well-versed ). Wings clipped!! defo better to use it up elsewhere for thermal insulation.

The labour from cutting and fitting ( effectively ) will be far beyond the cost saving, as you’ll have lots of difficult spaces to access / fill. Sell it off and buy proper acoustic wool / batts afaic. https://soundproofexpert.com/polystyrene/

Same harnessed energy goes into the same principal; eg heating hot water by means of an immersion, via direct electricity or excess diversion, from micro generation. Doesn’t require a Sunamp at all, just means that they will do the same job, but at 3-4x the price of an UVC and with a number of caveats. Add in an inherent and massive uplift in ‘specialised’ installation and ‘niche’ product cost and any money / savings you stand to benefit from, via the stated energy efficiency, are only going to be for the next generation to benefit from. That’s if it then lasts long enough, bearing in mind it does not attract a lifetime warranty like the Telford stainless cylinders do Time to look realistically at a product which will likely never pay for itself in its lifetime, and think again. Unless you’ve money to burn of course.

Yup. Huge, huge expense, zero benefit.

Sorry, I seem to have missed this. Clients with these installed ( in PH settings ) have reported sub 1oC/hr losses from the Telford cylinders. Back in the day I commissioned Telford to make me a “super-cylinder”, with 100mm of spray foam applied. Turns out on paper it had worse credentials than the 50mm of standard injected foam. Go figure Pay 3x the price for a slightly better performing unit, and then sit down and work out how many times you’ll have to live to receive the benefit. Manufacturers state wonderful facts and figures, but few state that they’ve not allowed for losses from the unavoidable connected pipework etc. Sub 1oC/hr losses will satisfy most. Back to my cheesecake now. Tonight it’s vanilla with some strawberries and cream. At least I’ll die happy 😆

And don’t let the door hit you on the ass on the way out. 👋

Thanks, Obi Wan. Upgraded from laymen’s terms to science in one swing of the pen. 👌

If it’s internal, then it’s ok to use pushfit immediately from that fitting. However, you cannot ( should not ) put JG into Hep2o and vice versa. So, use a bit of copper as you say, and a Hep2o straight connector and then onto Hep2o pipe to be 100% kosher.

Apologies. JG underground stuff is push on and forget. All good there afaic. The above ground ( domestic internal ) stuff is shart. Every single time I see these fittings they’ve started undoing themselves. I’ve seen the collars that prevent this from happening, fitted, prob a half dozen times in 25 years. Not many merchants even bother stocking them.