Nickfromwales

If it’s internal, then it’s ok to use pushfit immediately from that fitting. However, you cannot ( should not ) put JG into Hep2o and vice versa. So, use a bit of copper as you say, and a Hep2o straight connector and then onto Hep2o pipe to be 100% kosher.

Apologies. JG underground stuff is push on and forget. All good there afaic. The above ground ( domestic internal ) stuff is shart. Every single time I see these fittings they’ve started undoing themselves. I’ve seen the collars that prevent this from happening, fitted, prob a half dozen times in 25 years. Not many merchants even bother stocking them.

I meant on site, not here btw lol. So many out there that just cut as straight a path as possible.

Use copper?! If someone turns up to site and says they’ll install any make of pushfit pipe externally, ask them to get back in their van and look for less of an idiot. I’ve just finished 1st fixing a clients entire house in Hep2o and have handed over to a 2nd fix plumber that the client sourced. Muppet has put JG Speedfit inserts and JG fittings onto the ends of my Hep2o pipe runs, right next to the last hep2o fittings, in plain view, and connected the sinks / basins with what he clearly regularly uses. I even left Hep2o fittings on site. Ffs 🤬. No circling / collars on them, to stop the JG stuff from doing their party-trick ( slowly unscrew themselves and blow off the pipe ), and they’re getting boxed in. Tres bien 😕 Guess I’ll now go and cut those out and do them properly. Seriously…..why do I bother?!?!?

Agree totally, but it is not the same, at all, for the same system with a wooden floor for space heating. The OP does that ask for warm feet, they are asking for space heating, so I was very specific in how I replied. Wood doesn’t ‘retain the heat’ like tiles do, and as such makes a very poor, near sporadic emitter of heat. Bathrooms also get tolerated when just a little “too warm” whereas this space will become nigh on intolerable in the same situation. Apples and oranges I think.

A couple of strips of self-adhesive neoprene on the reverse of the unit, and use the supplied wall bracket. Of the units I've fitted to date ( same unit as you've bought, funnily enough ) I've not had any noise issues with floor mounting to posi-joisted floors on 1st floors, or from mounting to TF walls either. Reports from clients to date stated complete inaudibility in the adjacent rooms, from the unit itself, and same in rooms from airflow / functionality. I always mitigate against noise / sound in my MVHR designs, so the results come from design / engineering vs luck, but easily doable for any DIY'er as long as they know what to do and where. Another reason for doing plenty of reading up here on Buildhub!! @Dreadnaught Have you bought attenuators to go between your manifolds and the Flair?

OK. Batteries and panels on the DC side can be to any scale, but export limitation needs to be specified by the DNO and that instruction is followed by your installer. You would ( should ) have to tell the DNO of the max output from the hybrid ( 5kw in your case ) and have had permission for that before commencing. Is the rating for 5kw of PV and an additional (x)kw for batteries? Hybrids are usually dual input, so panels on one input and batteries on the other. Therefore if you split the panels to have a dual-string arrangement, where will your batteries connect? Sounds like your fitter has gone for the guaranteed sale with his own, self-dispensed means of mitigation, insuring against your possible refusal from the DNO and his loss of a sale. Worst case is the inverter going to default and throwing the full 5kw to the grid eg in the event of an equipment failure / malfunction. Time to go ask some awkward questions......

BG favourite scam is to charge customers £10's each month for decades, until something breaks. Then, after you've drip-fed £3-4k into their bank, they tell you that appliance is now obsolete, that they will not repair it any more, or cover you any more, and you need a new boiler ( simple boiler swap ) at between £5k - £7k, or more, or piss off.

Drill a 25mm pilot in the interior panel immediately prior to the wool insulation. Then get a piece of 20mm conduit 600mm long and cut an angled cut on one end. Rotate the conduit into the wool until it hits the inner face of the outer skin. Use a 1000mm sds 10mm bit fed through the conduit to make a pilot hole to outside ( it'll go through timber and brick ) with the conduit held still thus preventing the rotating drill and the wool from meeting. A second pair of hands to hold the conduit will help. Drill back in from outside with a 22mm drill, and then offer the conduit back in so it meets with the outside face, seal the conduit to the brick, and then pop your cable through. Remember to drill downhill from inside, and uphill from inside, eg to prevent any water ingress to the house interior. Seal both the inside and outside of the conduit at the interior to prevent drafts.

If there is any shading, optimisers should have been fitted to get this to a standard that would pass MCS. What shading do you refer to?

DNO should have been petitioned to see if you could export the lot!! The DNO would probably have given you the green light for that tbh as you're not massively over the base threshold ( circa 3.6 iirc ). They ( DNO ) would ask YOU for the export limitation as part of your application to install more than that allowance, and I'm pretty sure your fitter cannot just dial a higher power setup down and deem this compliant, independently, afaik. I think you should disconnect this until you have all this scrutinised, understood and in proper order. Over 3.6 should have provoked your fitter into an immediate and automatic DNO application, before even taking a deposit or ordering equipment, let alone buying it and fitting / commissioning it. Adding AC coupled batteries ALSO needs to be part of that application, plus adding more panels. Only DC coupled PV panels and batteries on the DC side of a hybrid inverter evade this requirement. Sounds like a cause for concern to me, sorry.

300w you say? £14 https://www.amazon.co.uk/winnerruby-Portable-Electric-Travelling-Efficient/dp/B08LNMHCZW/ref=asc_df_B08LNMHCZW/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=554322167175&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8526765289628865508&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007460&hvtargid=pla-1458892795428&psc=1

OK, thanks. OK, so a room off an otherwise already heated room? Or a doorway between the two spaces? Assuming 3 external walls, an adversely cold floor, and the height plus Velux. 200w/m2 is quite an aggressive in terms of UFH, so you'll likely get under and over shoot, exacerbated by the floor temp probe and the room stat both trying the manage that heat input to floor vs heat getting to space scenario ( so they'll be constantly squabbling tbh ). Heating the room ( space ) will require turning this on a good while before using the space, so you'll need a self-learning stat like the Warmup 3 or 4iE / other stat / controller that offers that feature aka "setback". These work out how long it takes from inputting energy into the floor to getting the air temp of that space to the required stat temp ( 20.5oC for eg ) and it then alters the switch on time to allow it to come on sooner than the timer is actually set for. It will be very slow to react, will overreact due to the minimal 'thermal content' of the heated emitter ( you wooden floor ) so really not advisable. You'd be FAR better off with a tiny oil filled radiator, which will heat that space up pretty much instantly and waste next to no heat. Hopefully I have helped you understand why this is a bad idea.

Try shouting "chop, chop, it's looking like rain!" every 30 mins

Why are you heating this space?

FYI, there are different temp kits giving higher or lower w/m2. Have you calculated this?

OK. The issue often overlooked is with soft insulation boards used under the electric UFH and then furniture feet etc or other point loads cause the insulation to compress at that point as the floor covering isn't spreading the load enough. Engineered wood will be fine. How often will this be used? It will be relatively crap in heating the room, and bloody expensive to run. Is this in conjunction with a radiator in this room so is auxiliary heating only, or is this intended to heat a room by itself?

Insulating the condensate pipe, regardless of size, eg if there's a slight risk of freezing, is observed in most installations if it's a cold roof space. Will be a few £ and you'll be insulating all of the other water pipes too, so an extra 10 mins work at most. I'd prob leave at 21.5mm and insulate, as a risk of freezing will provoke insulating regardless and larger pipe sizes will attract more expense on insulation.

What is the chosen final floor covering where the UFH wire is going? Before all of the above, you need to know if it CAN be used before HOW to use / lay it.

This names specific companies This did not. No experience of Pimlico. Regarding British Gas, one of the biggest bunch of unscrupulous thieves I've come across. Indeed, they specialise in fleecing the elderly, I've recounted many instances on here, and that extends way beyond London I assure you. Best to remember though; Plenty of decent folk out there who are conscientious and diligent, trustworthy, and proud of their work.

Don’t talk out of your arse Mark Plenty of good fitters, in varying methods of vehicular transport, will sort this quickly and easily. Even ones in sign-written vans! @DamonHD Save the growing drama and despair, and just fit a secondary EV. Not really a situation that requires talk of planning permission Let’s not let this molehill become mountainous….. 1 - 2 hour job max, couple of £hundred max. Done and dusted. Thank me with beer.

The insulated rafts are more about low energy / high performance, ergo the reduced heating costs for the life of the dwelling is usually the where most attraction to this type of foundation comes from.

Stay clear of iMist, their price was nearly double what I paid. When I said no thanks and disengaged with them I got pestered continuously by email asking me to proceed. I said no thanks again, after they then started ringing me as well as emailing me, and they knocked a grand off. Then did that again, and again until I got so pissed off I wouldn’t have used them anyway, even if they became cheaper.

Hi. I sourced a 3rd party company and commissioned them to undertake the turnkey installation on my behalf. I do this with multiple different disciplines now, PV / MVHR etc. Contact Sian at Firemisting Ltd Link as they travel countrywide, as do I, which is handy. They’ve done a great job so far, and are due back to 2nd fix for me November. I am only supplying them with a 15mm dedicated cold mains supply and an unswitched DP 13a fused spur for power. Only a certified designer can specify and install the system, btw, so you won’t get a commission only package from anyone reputable. Nor would you want to?

SE, apologies. That’s a black and white scenario so shouldn’t attract such complications or elongation. At the very least they should have identified any “issues” and requested that you mitigate? I provide bespoke slab penetrations details on each of my clients new builds, and have never seen this level of ‘confusion’ tbh. I sometimes get a nudge when we’re close to steels in ring-beams, but that’s usually resolved in a day. Too many people being over zealous with “covering their arses” these days, and always at the clients expense. You’re not building in Gravenhill are you? In-house BCO’s there are “interesting characters”………😕