Nickfromwales

It will either be capped or have a 110mm AAV atop. The connections to it will end with traps at appliances / outlets eg no pipe work directly open to atmosphere. 👊

They mix up definitions there, so their statement is essentially cannon-fodder. What they refer to is a single rising foul pipe that terminates at an appliance without 110mm ( or any ) need for ( or presence of ) air admittance. For eg; You can have a foul connection to a ground floor WC which simply has a pipe rising out of the slab that a bent pan connector is then fitted into. Then the WC pushes back onto that pan connector. Job done. The gotcha is, that at, or lesser than the aforementioned 1.3m, you will not get sufficient vacuum in the vertical pipe ( caused by the flushed water / solids forming a pellet and sucking air downwards behind it as it falls to the invert ) to require full and proper air admittance on that particular connection, or indeed cause any detriment whatsoever. If for eg, you repeat this on the 1st floor, when you flush and the pellet heads south, there will be a significant vacuum created behind the falling pellet and any traps, plus the throat of the WC itself, will all be sucked dry. That then leaves stench to enter the room via the foul connection as the trapped water in the traps is no longer there. So; If the external groundwork’s are very deep you could still require an AAV on even a ground floor WC, but NOT if the invert of the outlet of the WC and the invert of the external soil network are at, or less than, 1300mm apart. Note, the term invert refers to the lowest point where the flushed items turn to horizontal after falling vertically down. ( in a nutshell 🌰). Stub stacks are normally seen boxed in at around 1200mm off the floor in bathrooms of yesteryear, and typically will have a removable top / panel to gain access for service of, a full 4” ( 110mm ) AAV fitted atop the stub. These are often introduced where there is also a basin, or a shower / bath / sink connected to the same rising foul pipe. These need to be protected from the vacuum, so a knee-jerk AAV on top of the stub stack will be fitted for ‘Justin’, sometimes even if completely unnecessary. Best to identify where these are necessary so as to avoid ugly boxing-in in bathrooms etc. Justin case.

Hi. You don’t need an air gap internally, more a service void for pipes and cables etc. You can get liquid membranes also, such as Passive Purple ( check out Intelligent Membranes online for more product info / suitability etc ) which can go internally. Other than that, it sounds as though your on the right track. What nasty stuff is currently in the cavity? Beads or wool? If wool, that needs professional removal first, as this can have problems later in life which you may not be insured against if not removed ( and certified ? ).

Or, don’t listen to the bell-ends that gave you that advice, and install stub stacks and NOT chuffing gully traps. Will save considerably on dog food also.

Get one of those angry dogs that over-salivates, and get it to dribble into it. 👍

225mm posi’s leave very little space for services, so beware. If you look at the chord depths, and discount 2x from the overall height, you’ll see that you’ve around 120mm or less, and a soil fitting knuckle will just about, or if less won’t, fit in there. Have you planned your M&E layouts / large bore pipe runs yet ( FW & MVHR ) ? Leave the steel alone and get deeper joists would be my advice, unless your services are boxed in above / below the joist voids….

Tell the professionals that the water in the trap will soon evaporate and stench will be coming out into those spaces!!!

Yup. The installer should have been shouting that to you from the rooftops! Best to install a multi sensor vs just a CO detector afaic.

First fitting off the stove looks to be upside down? Shouldn’t it be female down facing over male spigot? This shows a female union with the socket upwards instead of the spigot upwards.

The problem will be the significant start-up current required for a pump of this type. That’s why 230v breakers got pumps have to be C rated, so they don’t trip out on start-up. An UPS will need to be specified for the load, so beware of that when considering / ordering. It may be a good idea to have a much smaller auxiliary pump set aside for this, which can just run constantly for any such “doomsday” events.

https://www.anchorpumps.com

https://www.pumpsukltd.com/water-pump-type/submersible-water-pumps.html

Usually better to have individual room controls for each bedroom, so the ones in use can have setback temps and lesser used rooms can be mothballed at lower set temps. One stat for all upper floor rooms can be quite indiscriminate, particularly if one bedroom is south facing and another to the north. Very different needs then.

You can get a wireless relay, but you’d need one that sends an on then am off signal ( flip flop ). Check with the various big names to see what they offer. Oh, and avoid Honeywell EvoHome like the plague. Unreliable bag of 💩. Order of events; Room stat sends call for heat signal to manifold wiring centre. Wiring centre opens the actuators for that zone. Then sends power to the manifold pump and closes a relay on board which goes to the 2-port valve brown wire. Motorised valve opens over around 8-10 seconds and closes its integral micro switch once 100% of travel has been achieved ( eg valve is fully open ). Orange and grey wires of the motorised valve ( out of the 5 cores ) get connected together by the micro switch. That gives you the control that tells the boiler to fire. You either keep those volt-free, or feed with 230v and send whichever ( via a cable ) to the boiler call for heat terminals.

If Harold fell into a bucket of t*ts, he’d come out sucking his thumb.

Welcome, fellow welsh person ! EV charging is a challenge, as you’ll be at 7kW max, with that needing to be sustained. Have you ruled out a diesel genny?

The advice around cylinders vs space heating is sketchy at best because the two never really go together. Issues mostly surround the transfer ( linear ) of energy, from electricity to heat, which is normally combatted by multiples of 3kW immersions or specifying 6kW immersions and so on. Eveything changes hugely in a PH though, and then you can basically tear up the rule book and do some “less than conventional “ designs to suit your own ( almost unique ) circumstances. That reduces the issue I state above, but that doesn’t go away if you need to heat a lot of water in a short ( off-peak ) window. Prob with the Sunamp ( aka Thermino ) is the inherent single 3kW immersion. Ergo that can only ever absorb / transfer energy at a relatively slow rate, sometimes it was not enough and designs / proposals failed miserably. They’re also now just so ludicrously expensive ( ‘bespoke’ supply and fit packages only ) vs an UVC that it really doesn’t make good financial sense to go with SA, unless you have very limited plant space / zero plant space where these can fit under a kitchen / utility worktop. Just about the only USP nowadays with a SA.

You won’t avoid the mould growth with D&D walls at this time of year, unless you are running dehumidifiers 24/7 with the house sealed up. It’s not terminal, just undesirable.

Yup. He’s better hope the Colonel doesn’t spot those, or they’ll be coated in 11 secret herbs & spices and straight in the deep fat fryer

Jesus! His thighs are like Kim Kardashians arse cheeks!!!!! You could open a beer bottle between those.

Depends whether or not they brought their Peleton bikes with them....

...and shoot the dog!

Except the oven would be in an open room, and the OP's cylinder is locked in a cupboard, eg significantly less convection / direct conveyance of the latent heat to room / whole-of-house.

There's not much to think about, you'd just separate them as they're 2 very different things in a PH. DHW still needs a decent bit of welly, but heating, then, only a thimble ( or 2 ) I've worked for a couple of turnkey M&E clients who insisted on no heat-pump, and with the way electricity costs are going I bet they will soon live to regret there stubbornness. If you have a LOT of PV you can "consider" your options. In the 3 months of winter you'll expect 25% solar irradiance or less, ergo a 10kWp array will deliver 2.5kW or less in winter. IF you are able to channel that into a heat pump, which is an energy multiplier, even in winter, you could then look realistically at offsetting the heating demand from onsite microgeneration. That is based on first considering watt the base loads are for the dwelling and summarising on the averages left over that would contribute to space heating. Without the heat pump........forget about it. Your best friend then will be simply dumping cheap rate electricity into the heat pump and charging the slab like a storage heater. All entirely academic of course, as any excess PV would be long gone on winter DHW. Fit a heat pump. You'll be kicking yourself if you don't.

A bog standard Telford stainless ( lifetime warranty ) will lose at or below 1oC per hour at these temps. Even at 70oC these are cold to the touch. The thing that is out of touch, is your contractor...... With proper pipe insulation local to this cylinder, you absolutely will not have an auxiliary heating system from DHW. If this gets routinely heated by excess PV during the summer months then the numbers warp a little, but you could still simply turn the immersion set-point a bit lower, to say 65oC, to mitigate.