Nickfromwales

Are you sure it isn't GRP, and not plastic?

Jumper it is, then 2 jumpers when it gets really cold

Honeywell or Reliance are the industry standards. Defo have the outside tap directly off the rising mains, and then the primary PRedV. If the pressure is that good, I would have a dedicated cold feed going to WC's and appliances only, and have that at 4 bar, and then T off after the stopcock for a secondary PRedV to service the house / bathing at 3 bar. The combi is a "cold mains dependant" device, so anything you can do to preserve the dynamic flow / pressure to it ( so thus to DHW ) is a pursuit well worth the effort. Consider the Vaillant 938 heat store combi, a cracking machine with very good rates of DHW flow. They've got 2x 7.5L hot water storage tanks in an insulated jacket at the rear of the boiler, which gives DHW outputs similar to an unvented cylinder. They stick out a bit, so check you have the depth ( basically it's a 837 combi mounted onto the jig which houses the tanks ). Have had two 'OK' showers running off one of these, also where the mains pressure was very good / high. Plumbed a dedicated 22mm cold mains feed direct from the stopcock to the 15mm inlet at the combi for max results. Would be perfect for you unless your DHW demand is normal / low eg 'OK' showers vs a decent blast!?

Hi and welcome. First off, you’ll need to make a building control application, and that will then mandate the minimum levels ( thickness ) of the insulation you will be required to install. You’ll need that from your BCO before anyone can advise much further tbh.

Which you can now appoint to someone new, who has more brain cells than a plant

Yup. Also the Eddi has a manual override so wouldn’t need any fettling.

Yup, you must feel relieved to know they’re not going to be wrecking anything else from herein. Good man !

You just take the live in ( feed from the fuse board that goes to the diversion controller ) and connect that in parallel to the power in of the immersion timer. Then take the power out from the timer and link it to the live feed from the diverter where it feeds the immersion. Simply acts as a bridge across L in and L out, picking neutral and earth up from the same point of origin as the diverter.

Indeed. Hence;

The air quality and humidity will become hugely problematic if you do as you suggest. Try opening the trickle vents to 5 or 10% of their capacity and revisit. Is this a brick and block cavity wall dwelling? Cold or warm roof?

It’s what is under 100’s of 1000’s of floors, but not ideal tbh on a ‘new’ job. Some sort of water / vermin barrier is recommended, such as the 50mm of concrete cap. You can get a concrete lorry to deliver this ready mixed and just have 2 barrows to relay it from street to site. The lorry will need to be ordered to allow for the wait time for you to hand-ball it in, unless you can get it poured straight in and then just rake it around?

Basing my comments of your sub floor being very flat and level, if not you should use a self levelling compound to get this to a decent enough standard. Then, for the areas with laminate; If it were me, I’d go for the XPS as your moisture barrier, and would take no chances there in assuming the floor already has one. The moisture levels would be very different when the surface is no longer exposed to atmosphere so going by that isn’t a very good yardstick afaic. Then, go for the 10mm fibre for additional heat insulation. You buy insulation once, so invest now, save on heating bills long-term. For the areas with LVT; You’ll need a liquid damp barrier, and then to make this up to the required depth ( height ) with a self levelling compound. The LVT needs something under it that can withstand point load / impact, and none of the products you’ve linked are suitable for those areas. If you can buy the LVT which comes on a backer, so it’s like planks, then go for the thicker XPS so you’re insulated and moisture barrier protected. Remember with the XPS to tape the joints with a suitable tape to maintain the barrier.

……… you’d like to fix the ASHP ctrl so you can heat DHW via the heat pump? One of these if not; LINK

I’ve read that twice, and haven’t got a clue what were being asked, sorry Is this for use in a house? On site as an alternative to a Portaloo? You’ll need to add some more detail please!

PIV Use the ugly spray foam and just look at the metal beasties vs looking up!?! 🙄

I know of many heavy smokers who lived into their 80’s and beyond. Extreme cases can be demonstrated all day long, but the actual flow / velocity etc required, constantly, to create these issues simply do not present themselves in the high majority of domestic installations.

For heating, I only ever use gate valves or suitable metal seated lever ball valves. For potable, eg hot / cold water, see the link I gave a few posts back

Defo use the rest bend for a long radius return from vertical to horizontal, as there will be a lot of oomph needed to get the dolphins along the straight horizontal run and out to sea. Have that rest bend going immediately into a 135 Y branch, with the branch off to whichever side is open for access, with the branch not flat but just set up maybe 15o to ensure nothing gets left to sit in the internal ‘mouth’ of the branch. Into that unused branch outlet you then install a 110mm rodding access cap. If you ever need to ‘empty out’ you can just grab the branch and rotate it to get the branch facing slightly downhill, then simply ask the most annoying relative / visitor you know to hold a large bucket whilst you shout instructions, telling them how many more turns on the cap before the magic happens etc. You could make like easier by doing all of this in 150mm, if you’re going to use 150mm for the horizontal run? That way, the friend or relative can get their forearm in to manually grab any problematic item. 👍

Bugger. Just spotted the compression onto pushfit, which I despise, but here it is catastrophic. The ballofix isolation valve does t have enough depth to get the insert and the olive in far enough to be robust. That one, and any others like it, need cutting out ASAP. This is especially problematic if the pushfit is JG speed fit pipe , but I can see a hep2o elbow there so it’ll hopefully have the very thin stainless insert. Sorry, but another issue to add to the rectify list……..

None of those things! High opacity Matt white emulsion, a couple of coats, and then sand that down to a finish.

One of these With one of these shoved in Change of £5

Rubber insert and a cleaning eye?

The only issue with battening off one wall, is that it has a knock-on effect to the perpendicular unit runs, as in they must all move forwards with that unit too.

It’s functional, so no case anyhoo….. Maybe chooses from recommendations from friends and family?

Link You’ll see the full bore isolations have a much fatter body than the poky little ones. When they get removed, as to see inside one You can’t fit a pencil through one.