Nickfromwales

That’s what we’re installing next week ( Zappi 3ph 22kW rapid ) and have installed a 5-core SWA to surface mount in the new double car port. Why are you getting involved with this / speccing cables and not the installer / sparky?

Perimeter ( expansion ) insulation is only really necessary on a heated slab? A bit OTT if it isn’t heated IMO.

Liquid DPM first, and flick some sand over it whilst wet to provide a key. You don’t want to bring damp up to the surface and then try and hold it back from there, far better to keep it out of ( below ) the new filler material.

Those setups can only be plumbed it as a left handed arrangement, whereas your plumber has gone against this for possible convenience of plumbing it in..... And the isolators ( red and blue valves ) should be between the rails and the mixing set, as per above image, eg so you don't have to drain down the loops to service the mixing valve etc or the pump and then risk getting unwanted trapped air getting into the rails / loops.

I'd be more concerned as to why the input group and the pump are completely the wrong way around?!? The pump is pumping upwards, and the words IVAR are upside down, showing that the water that should be being 'sucked' through the input group is in fact being pushed backwards against it. Like that.

Not sure, but cowboys are usually found on horses

From a discussion about my frozen sprouts defrosting, to wellies. “Only possible on da good ol ‘hub” lol.

Those ones are only good if you get yourself in deep shit with the DNO……

Depends on the number of inputs and the max loading of your inverter. Best to speak to their tech support dept tbh, vs risk damaging anything.

You don’t need one? You just flick off the isolator in the CU to simulate a power out / work on the domestic electrical system. Needing to isolate the mains to the CU is something you’d be engaging a qualified sparky for, and they’d just snip / retain / reinstate ( so it looks intact ) and move on to the next job.

One here.

Robert Llewelyn goes into a bit of detail on the Fully Charged YT channel. IIRC, you’ll have a 5 - 7 second delay, then the Tesla will disconnect from grid and bring you online from the batteries. I can’t recall the max throughput but I expect if the house is drawing more, then a circuit breaker will trip to protect the BMS. Assume it’ll be down to you to go turn the hob off before switching back on.

That’s exactly what I’d do, I doubt I’d be on my own there. Plus, folk will buy batteries, and charge them prior-to each outage. Power restrictions, managed by increasing the cost of energy consumption by an order of magnitude when x number of units have been ( over ) consumed at set times per day, would be a little more rational imho, switching the juice off I think would be irrational, much for the reasons above. Human beings are selfish and fragile little things, so will just engineer consuming more before / directly after to compensate for the inconvenience…….thus negating any initiative to stop the problem in the first place. If you make something painfully expensive, beyond how expensive it already is deemed to be, then people will protect their purse accordingly. Rationing power could work well, but increasing cost/unit at a set time each day would of course would be difficult and unsympathetically indiscriminate, ( but simply switching it off is just barmy afaic )…….barmy, but deliciously simple and almost irreplaceably effective. Yikes.

Yup. Also you don’t have to keep moving lights room to room with festoon. I just provide those for my clients for each new build as it’s much easier to have the whole place lit up. Just remember to NOT go through the frame / structure, instead just go through thoroughfares and through doorways so you don’t have to keep pulling them out and retreading them. Or lend them to cocks who return them cut into short sections who did the above and realised it was then too late to get them out without cutting ( destroying ) them 😐. What makes life bucketloads easier, is to fit 110v trailing sockets on the end of each string, so you can daisy-chain one to the next and so on. Because they’re LED’s there is little to no problem with voltage drop, just limit it to 3 strings per run. I can even plug in a power tool at the end of the 3rd string for a quick source of 1110v power for sporadic use.

Are there liquids / solids going through that zig-zag or is it just a rising vent?

I’ll install 24 killer-whales of battery now, just to piss you off Tbh, I was hoping the grown-ups would reply………

What if we don’t have a swanky keyboard? Can’t see any options on my iPhone keyboard for uppies and downies, but haven’t looked very hard as usual!

I’ve heard mention of planned power outages / reduced consumption windows a-la some other countries, is this to be implemented in old Blighty? Eg grid dropping available power between x o’clock and x o’clock each day, or it going off altogether. Surely not!? Discuss please! I will loiter in the background.

I did the same, ( less extravagant by an order of magnitude ), by taking my home office out of the house and relocating into the 6m x 3.7m man-shed that I made at the side of the house ( plot same size as the existing house mirrored at the side, same title etc ) and it’s a kid-free zone when the doors closed. Bliss lol. Faux pas was not to insulate it, but that’s being rectified this winter for sure before fitting an A2A split A/C unit in there. Got a load of favours banked so a team effort should see that done in a jiffy.

Same here. Gave my old boss ( AKA Adolf ) the 2-finger salute and decided to sell around £5k of my home cinema kit to get 1st van / tools and set up on my own. Best bit was, the second his customers knew I’d set up on my own, they started using me instead lol. Nice little starter package, a near-instant customer base! I do miss my Velodyne sub too, that would have knocked her fillings back in Eyewateringly expensive kit when new……..and now cheaper than shoplifting ( “vintage” now ! ). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313748513426?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=EAIaIQobChMInsTBvruH-wIVibPtCh3HYg9ZEAQYASABEgJqmfD_BwE

Yup. Decoiler all the way for me too. Just back-breaking work rolling a bog heavy coil around IMO, even if there’s 2 of you. When the coil pulls off from the internal ‘windings’ you have to rotate the coil 1.5 times per rotation as when the larger circumference goes 1m, you haven’t then dispensed 1m of pipe. Just becomes a real pita afaic. On a decoiler it is just sooooo simple and easy, why struggle? One man application is a breeze. My opinion is based on pulling all the loops off big 500m or 200m coils, as the purchase / installation / labour economics / are better if there’s less downtime, plus it tends to give less waste as you’re not trying to match loops to loop lengths and then being stuck with loads of short ( useless ) off cuts.

@Radian Check with the window profile to make sure that’s not a drainage channel, as you may get water in it if there’s a downpour if so. If that section is purely a threshold you should be good 👍 The super flat speaker wire is another solution. Lay it next to the carpet grippers, and it’s ok to take a bit of traffic if you tape it well. Only prob is you can’t go round bends with it so point-to-point only, or bend it over itself to turn at your own discretion ( strictly no traffic at that point btw ). Biggest regret for my home audio days was selling my Kef Ref 104.2’s. 😑.😥 Kept my Yamaha DSP A2, just too good to punt out at the couple of hundred I’d struggle to sell it for today. Monster power out of that thing!

That’s not an attempt, that’s a good bit of planning / execution is what that is 😎👍

You can. Above = bombproof 😎👍

BH T’s & C’s state that we can bully you at out leisure. No retreat, no surrender.