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Yes that will work fine. Many houses with large rooms or open plan need two loops in one room. These are driven by two actuators linked to one stat to form one zone. Have you considered installing both? Only use the electric when the rest of the house is off. Our bathroom has wet UFH but it's oil fired. It's wired to a stat like the rest of the house so it's probably on when the rest of the house needs heating. We don't turn it on out of season. Most people have a manifold on both floors. One good reason for having one upstairs it to make air bleeding easy/possible. Eg the upstairs manifold is higher than upstairs loops so you can fit an air valve one it.

It might be what we have. They call them piped ditches. Years ago it there might have been a field side ditch which your land drained into. It might even have been your responsibility to keep it clear. Then when the road was tarmaced or widened they put a pipe in it, fill and tarmac over the top. In some cases these are indistinguishable from regular road drains. In our case soakaways wouldn't work and so when we came to discharge our planning condition we proposed discharging surface water into this piped ditch. They asked Highways or the EA (I forget which) who responded saying "They wouldn't want to make flooding further down the hill worse". We responded by proposing a rainwater recycling tank with the overflow going into this piped ditch. This was approved by the planners without further consultation. Note ours is just a recycling tank not a storm surge attenuation tank like it really should be.

Throw a rope over the whole house to pull up a shade?

Couldn't find it in Part A but google found several reference to 9m. Example.. https://www.housebuild.co.uk/construction/building-guidelines/building-regulations-and-other-guidance/part-a-structure/structure-loading-and-ground-movement https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.nhbc.co.uk/binaries/content/assets/nhbc/tech-zone/nhbc-standards/tech-guidance/6.1/movement-joints-in-masonry-walls-.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjVtbXgqqf9AhVQY8AKHaMJCF8QFnoECBUQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0iIrfduR9YBQe2mpnAS2Xm

There is something in Approved Doc Part A about long walls but got a feeling you are OK if those dividing walls are brick/block. What you might also need is an expansion gap. We did on a shorter wall.

We have a pocket door on an ensuite. I would never put one in a high traffic area unless you expect it to be left open all the time. They are simply too much effort to open and close frequently.

It occurs to me the batman probably needs the pole strong and secure enough to lean a ladder against it to climb up.

I've never broken a drill bit that wasn't already halfway through drilling a hole or was tiny (like 2mm). I'd be drilling a 6 or 8mm pilot hole first then the 12mm. Put some oil on it?

Otherwise look for a man with van/flatbed in your area to go pick one up from en ebay seller? Erecting it might be fun.

What about a tripod like structure with whatever batman wants on top?

Presumably only the highest step(s) need fall protection. Perhaps just a single post on that step?

Glass? Oh I see you don't like cleaning glass.

He's probably built it by now. We went for a regular B&B floor with insulation and UFH in screed on top. Some rooms carpet, some wood floor, some tiles. Underneath the B&B co provided hangers for battens and plasterboard. No soundproofing insulation added. My kids were about 5 when we moved in and are 21 now. They weren't the most noisy kids but we never really had a problem with noise. I think if you wanted to improve it I would replace the battens with resilient bars (?) fit sound insulation and perhaps double up the plaster board?

Would be interested to know what @Nickfromwales thinks about these? https://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-copper-plumbing-stick-15-x-1-2-x-300mm/61598?kpid=61598&ds_kid=92700055281954511&&&&&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQiArsefBhCbARIsAP98hXQ6k4ZIlNvYi1toXsIZSjy1srTFVdiivyNnifuIjAC7gqBZuImJfz0aAgZrEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds They aren't flexible just easier to bend than rigid copper pipe. I used one in a previous house but never lived there long enough to find out if there were any issues.

I want one of these.. Found on Amazon..

Think I might have answered my own question.. https://www.ajaxonline.co.uk/product/milight-5-in-1-led-controller/

For my next project I'm thinking of building an illuminated bathroom mirror. Something irregular shape like this to suit our bathroom that has a sloping ceiling above the basin. I can get a mirror cut easy enough. The back will be something like 20mm mdf painted/sealed with a waterproof LED strip around the edge. I haven't started looking for LED drivers yet but I know there are loads available. Does anyone know if there are types that remember their brightness/colour settings over a power outage? That way I could wire it to the same light switch as the main room lights.

Woke up to no mains water today. Short while later noticed our DHW loop pump was making a lot of noise. Looks like flushing the loo caused water to drain back out of the DHW pipes causing the loop pump to run dry. Think I need to fit a one way valve or a pressure sensor to turn off the loop pump if there is no mains pressure. Water co says no water for 10 hours 😞

Deleted. Didn't notice you said over 30sqm.

In which case was planning permission needed for the stables?

Many youtube vids on installing a bath don't show battens or a frame supporting the lip. This is what I would do.. https://youtu.be/7Rqysh9NHts

Never seen the floor and wall under a bath tanked. Lots of rotten chipboard flooring though. The life of the seal between bath and tiles depends on how rigid the bath is. If it moves up and down even a tiny bit when you get in and out the life of the seal can be affected. I would ensure the floor is solid, perhaps by fitting 18mm WBP to the floor and make a frame from 2x2 or similar to support the lip of the bath. Get it as rigid as possible. You could also use Hardibacker board or similar on the walls instead of regular plasterboard.

Receipts for animal feed or similar? May well be historic satellite images but not sure if sheep are large enough to show up. My house built in 2007 shows up partly constructed on one set so I could prove when it was built.

It's important that the buildings have been in agricultural use for 10 years. If they really have been used as stables for horses then you should be OK. If there is any evidence of other use such as storing cars or garden equipment that could be problematic. That includes evidence on old Google Earth/street view images. The building must also be "capable of being converted" technically. Eg not in such bad condition that they require significant knocking down and rebuilding. Underpinning is allowed I think. So what is/was it before the stables were built? Were they built within the planning rules? This whole area can be a bit of a minefield and making the wrong or too early approach to the planners can mess up your chances if you don't know what you are doing. In view of the likely value in your part of the world I would employ a planning consultant in stages. Eg Initially to just give you an opinion on the sites chances of passing the tests for class Q and anything you need to do to maximise the chances first. If that looks OK then get him to quote for submitting a class Q prior notice application. For that second stage you may need them surveyed and architects drawings done etc

https://www.abbeypynford.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Treesafe-Brochure.pdf