Temp

+1 to this.

I assume its a 9kW output model. If Im looking at the right model here.. https://www.lg.com/uk/heating-awhp/monobloc I think it can manage 8.5kW with -15C Air temp and 55C flow temperature.

How big was the gas boiler before? I would try balancing the system to ensure no rooms are overheating. Then in the next cold spell i would try not using any DHW for 24 hours. Record the outside air temperature, the store temperature and each room temperature every hour. If the Thermal Store cannot reach the set temperature then the heat pump is definitly undersized for those conditions. I know it's a pain but you could then say to the installer - look under these reasonable conditions it wasn't able to deliver the heating load alone (no DHW was used).

I think even East Anglia has a problem exporting the wind energy it generates.

Log burners that are approved for smokeless zones have a stop or similar limit which prevents you turning down the air too much. This helps stop smoke when first lit but can make it burn too fast later once it's settled down. If you know what you are doing id recommend a regular model but keep the airflow high initially or it may smoke too much.

I hired a mini digger and dumper. The dumper was also used to transport concrete around my house to where the slab was in back garden. It's worth paying the ready-mix co a bit of waiting time. Our delivery driver was very helpful.

How well installed was your insulation? The remaining cavity is normally ventilated so gaps between insulation panels are bad news. Any gaps in IWI is less critical as there is a brick wall stoping airflow to them.

In some cases a building is in such poor condition that it makes financial sense to knock it down and rebuild but as yo have discovered the planners treat that as a new build in the countryside which is against policy. You need to tread carefully and not let the building get so bad that it is incapable of being converted. If necessary carry out repairs but only repairs and get a new survey being careful to brief the surveyor. Ideally you want to be in a position where you have planning permission to convert it and then put in another application to knock down and rebuild with something that looks near identical. That would be very hard to refuse (at appeal if necessary) as the end result of both would be the same. If it's too bad to convert then you don't have anything to bargain with. For the planners it becomes a choice between no house and a new house.

We have stone in our bathrooms and our builder was keen to use 12.5mm Hardibacker board. It's quite hard to cut but I like it now as it's great to fix into.

Plinth bricks? If the flat top is exposed as it will be I think the NHBC recommended lead flashing on top and 1" down the sloping face. At least that's what our builder said.

I went into a stone shop two years ago and they had "pillowed" stone at well over £200 /sqm. I understand each piece was hand machined to give it the worn look you get on the floor of a 16C farmhouse.

We have a slight step in/out of our bathroom. Think it's about 8-10mm. Has wood strip with a partial 45 degree chamfer. Never noticed a problem.

3.5mm ! https://www.ceramictiles.co.uk/product/3-5mm-thick-tiles/

Not used them myself but impressive claims.. https://www.uktilesdirect.co.uk/news/porcel-thin-large-format-and-ultra-thin-porcelain-tiles/ How much adhesive you need depends how flat your floor is.

Not used them myself but impressive claims.. https://www.uktilesdirect.co.uk/news/porcel-thin-large-format-and-ultra-thin-porcelain-tiles/ How much adhesive you need depends how flat your floor is.

+1 to Zinsser. We were getting mould above a shower and Zinsser was recommended to stop it. We used Zinsser 123 Primer Sealer then Zinsser Perma-White Interior Mould Resistant Paint. Worked very well. I'm never going to use anything else on a bathroom ceiling.

My guess is the original windows were load bearing and this wasn't properly considered when they were replaced with uPVC. The cracks are wider at the top than the bottom and their direction suggests the bay has sunk? I would budget to take down rebuild the whole bay window on both floors and factor that into the value you put on the house. If that doesn't fill you with horror get a surveyor or SE to look at it to be sure it's not worse than that. Perhaps they will say it's not that bad but better safe than sorry. The cracks on the left in this picture are a bit more concerning because it's not clear they are related to issues with the bay.

I think having fewer bends to make rodding easier is more important.

Is UFH a good match for your lifestyle? It's slow response means it's better suited to houses where one person is home most days. If you are both working then Rads and a faster response time are a better choice in my opinion. If the insulation is below the B&B floor it will have quite a slow response time.

Ours are similar to these. The glass slots into grooves. Building Control may want to see standards marks (sometimes still called kite marks) on every pane.

I also vote for engineering bricks but.. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/5-substructure-ground-floors-drainage-and-basements/5-1-substructure-and-ground-bearing-floors/5-1-13-durability/

Can you post more pictures from wider view and outside. It looks like some work has been done recently. Was this just an attempt to fill cracks or something else?

Why not rotate it like this or am I missing something..

What did the original quote say about stage payments?

I think human eye can see green better than other colours at same brightness.