Temp

I asked my builder why he didn't have any sockets in his site van for a heater or kettle and he told me he didn't want his trades sitting around. He said they can sit in their cars if they are cold. I learned a lot from him. He also put a lot of effort into ensuring trades never had to go of site to get materials. Every day before closing up he asked everyone what was needed for the next day and personally went to buy it on the way home if necessary. He said if you let trades go and get stuff they will be gone hours on your time.

This post is somewhat of a "thinking aloud" post. Feel free to wade in and correct me if I'm wrong ! Most of you know that Analogue phone lines are being switched off by the end of 2025. What I didn't realise is that not all ISP plan to offer a replacement VOIP telephone service. https://modern-networks.co.uk/bt-switch-off-2025 Fibre FTTP won't be available for huge numbers of people so many people will still be using FTTC or even ADSL when switch off occurs. My understanding is that most FTTC modems support SOGEA so we shouldn't need a new one. What I didn't realise is that companies like Plusnet don't seem to be planning a replacement telephone service at all. Not VOIP, nothing. Apparently they don't offer any telephone service with full fibre FTTP at the moment. So if you want to retain a land line like service (eg for an old burglar alarm) its not just a matter of buying an adaptor. Will also need to subscribe to a VOIP service, set it up etc. It's also unlikely this would work over a power cut? My existing modem certainly isn't battery backed. So is there a battery backed modem with Analogue phone line input that supports VOIP to a third part supplier that isn't your ISP? Is that what we will need? What about an OAP that currently just has a phone line? Are BT offering an plug and play adapter so they don't see any difference? We had a relative with dementia that struggled when her handset had to be changed.

Yes just two courses of engineering bricks (more waterproof than regular bricks). I made some long bolts from 12mm stainless steel threaded rod and nuts and embedded them in the concrete "head" down after levelling it. The mix was stiff enough they stood upright on their own but might need support. The bricks had holes in so were easy to drop over the top of the bolts when laying them. Just had to cut a few bricks where the holes or mortar joints didn't line up. DPM then drilled clearance holes in the wall plate. Big washers and nuts. Warning: I tripped and fell over and nearly impaled my head on one of the bolts when laying bricks, so make sure to put lengths of 40mm pipe over them as soon as the concrete is set until they are safe.

Always had Bosh machines and they have lasted 10+ years. Would buy again. Few months back I compared the energy consumption on different modes and the Eco cycle did save electricity even if it doubled the wash time. I'd look for a model with an induction motor rather than one with brushes. These should be quieter and need less maintenance.

I would suggest it needs a concrete lintel and because the clay liners have been broken it will probably need the chimney lining (although that's probably a good idea anyway).

As I recall for an SCR it's called the "Holding Current", for Thyristors it's called the "Latching Current". Value will be on the data sheet. Edit: I think this will also apply to solid state relays (SSR).

The roof design (warm vs cold roof structure) is a separate decision to how to ventilate your house (MVHR vs Trickle vents). I would recommend MVHR whatever roof design you choose. Put the fan unit as far away from bedrooms as possible. If you have an attached garage the roof space of the garage might be a good choice. The loudest part of our system is the air outlet (eg when you stand under it in the garden).

In a house designed for it spray foam should work well but it's getting a tainted reputation because of the above.

Not hard to find people with mortgage problems.. 500 people group action.. https://www.estateagenttoday.co.uk/breaking-news/2023/2/hundreds-of-claims-to-be-made-for-mis-sold-spray-foam-insulation Somewhat ironic they use blasting with dry ice (aka C02) to remove it.. https://www.allseasonsweb.co.uk/sprayfoamremoval?gclid=CjwKCAiAmJGgBhAZEiwA1JZollZVnp6w2EkUIfKT56Vq_oEQqNQJ0EQPgcOiClZc_nQ66aYcnbQ-fRoCfpIQAvD_BwE

Or find a tray where the trap doesn't clash with the joists so it doesn't need to be raised? Possibly even drop the ceiling below to allow pipes under the joists if this was on a new build.

If it was me I'd build a wood platform with WBP top layer instead of using the feet and go for a top access trap. Then bed the tray on mortar in the normal way.

+1 I wired up my own. Cable cost way more than the actual NTC. Encapsulated 10k NTC with short cables are five for £7.50 on Amazon. Google found these but I've never purchased from these companies... Various lengths Inc 10m for £15.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183331715037?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&var=690639609095 10m for £21.. https://www.justradiators.co.uk/thermosphere-floor-sensor-probe?ps=MjQ5PTE1MzUx&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9YugBhCZARIsAACXxeLok7yVFEa2erOpxJCsXUTmaseUfl25MJ21u-PweOzb6tuTduS6CBAaAmCbEALw_wcB#249=15351&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shoptimised+|+Incremental+|+Performance+Max&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=5690114029&hsa_cam=19604440538&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3

As I recall they stopped allowing planning permission extensions some years back to stop developers starting on large land banks. So you have to reapply. Normally that's not a problem but can be if policy changes. Were both plots on one planning grant? That might make a difference. If you want to extend it by starting work it normally has to be a lawful start so you have to comply with any planning conditions that say "Before work starts...". But it sounds like you know this. I do know of a windfarm that got its planning extended by constructing the site entrance. Normally for houses they want the foundations dug and inspected by BC but I don't think that's what the law says is required. It might be possible to do something else that counts as starting and apply for a certificate of lawful development on the grounds work has started.

That's virtually the same as what I did. In case not obvious to @Ticky.. The blue lines are typically plastic sheet. The one below the slab stops water in the concrete draining out weakening the mix before it sets. Under mine I put hardcore and a sand blind. The one above is a DPM. There is also a DPC on top of the brick courses. The one in the wall is a Vapour Control Layer marked VPC. On mine I made the slab slightly above ground and put small gravel filled trench around the outside edge. I also extended the cladding down to about 50mm above the slab to hide the engineering bricks I used.

PS: The absence of a mixer probably explains why your actuators feel pretty hot when it is working. UFH temperatures are normally 30-50C eg lower than boiler/rad temperatures 60-80C. If you have any solid wood flooring this can be damaged by too high a floor temperature. Ditto some lino like products have a max floor temperature. Sometimes as low as 38C.

Yes they can be added. There would normally be a pump and mixer on each manifold. The manifold pump sends the same water round and round the floor loops. The mixer injects new hot water into the floor loops to maintain them it at a set temperature. Typically looks something like this (see photo). The pump is obvious. The mixer is at bottom left near the flow and return valves. You might also need a bypass added to the system to deal with a situation where the mixer on both manifolds is closed. We have seen all sorts of problems on here. Manifold pumps and mixers are normally fitted on the left of the manifold. We've seen problems where they have tried to fit them on the right due to a lack of space and they have ended up being fitted upside down or with the pump pointing in wrong direction. If your plumber doesnt know about UFH I would find another that does. I note a distinct lack of insulation on all your main flow and return pipes as well.

+1 Mouse traps baited with peanut butter work very well for us. Just don't double dip the spoon if you need to reload them or keep a pot marked "mice only".

On most systems the actuator heads press down on a pin to turn off the flow. Removing the actuatorcallows the pin to come up/on. This pin can get stuck down/off. Perhaps remove the actuators on that one and another to compare it with. Eg both/all pins come up to the same height? Does the flow increase with the actuator removed? If that all checks out I would try turning off the three good loops and turn on the problem loop. Does that cause the flow rate on the problem loop to go right up? If so sounds like balancing issue. Partial blockage? When you check for a blockage with a hose make sure you put the supply hose on the flow manifold and hose to drain on the return manifold. Make sure the actuator is open (pin up).

Those bars are 12mm diameter. What I would do is laminate up three 12mm sheets giving 36mm thickness. The centre layer wouldn't be solid. I'd cut strips for a frame around the edges and to form pockets where the brackets are going. This will be fairly heavy even hollow so quite a few brackets needed. PS the metal bracket on the rod needs recesing into the back edge of the shelf. Might be possible to do this for all the brackets at once with circular saw or router before glue up.

Think it's normally stuck on with a contact adhesive. Something like Evo stik Impact. Available in tins.

PS: I put the flush button plate on the top of some boxing and then discovered the inward opening window hit it 😞

Google for "concealed cistern" lots available to go in cabinets/boxing. In my limited experience... You need to plan ahead to get the waste and flush pipes at the right height. Remembering to allow for tiles/stone flooring. They also need supporting so they cannot move backwards because you are going to be pushing the WC into onto/into the pipes and it can take some force. Not huge force but if you don't allow for it the pipes may move back into the boxing so you can't get them connected. You don't want to discover this after you have done all your tiling and can't get access. Some cisterns are designed to be serviced through the flush button plate. These can be mounted either on the front face or the top of the cabinet/boxing. Others have remote operating buttons connected to the cisterns by air tubes. These allow the smaller buttons to be off to one side for example, but then you need to form an access panel to service the flush valve. You don't need a metal frame type unless you go for a wall mounted pan.

+1 And put an 8mm polypropylene draw rope in it. Part R (England) appears to allow this if you don't have the right to lay cables in the road?...

Building Regulations applicable to a development are normally frozen at the date you apply for BC Approval. In some cases you have to start work by a specified date. For example there were changes made to the regs on 15 June 2022. As long a building notice or full plans application was submitted before 15 June 2022 they were considered under the previous regulations. This was provided building work starts before 15 June 2023.

I think this points to what @PeterW suggested. Nothing opening the valve when only UFH is calling for heat. I'd get someone to look at it. Make sure they know its never really worked and show them the above.