Temp

You might get away without battens if the insulation is suitable but check with the maker. I've heard of people having problems in high traffic areas. People walking around bend the boards slightly compressing the insulation which eventually breaks up or becomes spongy.

I used the poly inserts in a ring binder. After I'd done the spreadsheet I got it to number each line and put a matching number on the plastic inserts. Probably overkill.

Council Web site should have info on the CIL. I

If you accepted his quote make sure to end your contract with him properly. Eg write recorded delivery giving him two weeks to complete the work or you will assume the contract is terminated.

We have 80mm insulation under UFH and wish we fitted more. I would stuck with rads if you only have 50mm. I think Building Regs recommend minimum 18mm thick boards over joists or similar. I would look at 20 or 21mm Engineered boards and 30mm PIR insulation if you can get it? Figure out which direction is best to run the boards. Fit 30mm PIR insulation between 30mm battens on 600mm centres. Battens at 90 degrees to the direction the boards will run. Battens glued and/or screwed down. Batten also around the perimeter and at doorways. Fit 21mm T&G Engineered wood boards (210mm wide?). They should be glued together and secret nailed to the battens. The glue applied by brush to the groove to make sure of really good coverage. Eg don't just run the glue bottle down it doesn't usually apply enough glue to the sides to the groove (according to our builder). Should allow an expansion gap around the perimeter covered by skirting. If you can afford it digging out the floor and fitting more insulation would be better.

If the CIL is a thing in your area check the status. Has it been paid? Normally a self builder has to apply for an exemption before work starts and live in the house for three years after completion otherwise it becomes payable. If not already paid, it's just possible you might become liable for the CIL with no way to claim the exemption because work has already started. This might mean it's cheaper if the existing PP has not been started. You could apply for new PP and claim the exemption before starting work on that one.

We fitted ours after completion. I had quite a problem getting the right register plate to go from the stove pipe to the chimney because the company I used kept sending the wrong parts. Apart from that it wasn't too hard.

Have you actually built the chimney already? Normally you can just raise the entry.

Part J is confusing. I think section 1.48 and 1.49 applies to all flues not just solid fuel appliances. 1.48 says "Where bends are essential, they should be angled at no more than 45° to the vertical." Diagram 15 on page 27 Part J says "90 degree bends not suitable for solid fuel". So I think for a WBS you should use 2*45 degree bends to make a 90.

Ive no idea if these are any good but.. 0.23 TOG.. https://murphylarkin.com/Thermalay-underfloor-heating-underlay-ultra-low-tog 0.303TOG (but only 2mm) https://www.ambiencehardwoodflooring.co.uk/red-classic-under-floor-heating-underlay-sold-per-10m2-roll.html Test samples?

Carpets are sometimes available in two versions, foam backed and hessian backed. The hessian backed has lower TOG but the small print in the contract with the showroom frequently says they can supply either. You might want to do something about that. Then some places say the max 2.5 includes the 18mm chipboard if it's a timber floor. https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/conundrum-ufh-tog-values-and-underlay-for-carpet.537212/

We have a Bosch integrated fridge in kitchen units. I've never consciously heard it running. Perhaps when the door is open?

We a Our PP had a condition requiring us to agree tree protection measures before work started. We just wrote to them stating we would erect barrier fencing according to BS blah blah. They agreed it but never came to check. We just put the barriers where we wanted them. The main thing they want to stop is vehicles driving over the root zone. So if you can stop that with fencing in strategic places but allow your scaffolding you should be fine. So fence off the trees while digging foundation trenches then fence off the route vehicles would have to take to get to the trees while your scaffolding is up.

@sameulepapi Officially you only need to issue certificates if the building is being converted to a charity building or similar. However they can help convince a contractor to zero or 5% rate if they haven't done it before. For a dwelling I suggest something like this.. I have read the relevant parts of Buildings and construction (VAT Notice 708) and certify: That, as the recipient of construction and conversion services, the development is a conversion from a non-residential building/barn to a residential building/new dwelling, and therefore qualifies for reduced rate VAT (5%). Planning Reference Number: 12345678/FUL Planning Title: Site Address: Contact Address: Telephone: Yours sincerely etc

PS Don't forget the CIL. No work on site until you have done the exemption paperwork.

I would always recommend applying for what you want/need if there is a slight chance they will agree. So I would apply to "Dismantle and rebuild as a dwelling". Sounds better than a demolition. Specify exactly what is to be reused in the rebuild. If they refuse that switch to a conversion. Either way you should get all the VAT back. Its either zero rated or 5% and reclaimed. Take photos of the empty site to prove it was demolished if you go for zero rating route.

If your planning permission is for a conversion, but instead you knock it down intending to rebuild it, then the planners can declare its in breach of your planning permission. You have to reapply for a knock down and rebuild which might be refused on the grounds it would be a new house in the countryside. In one case I heard about the walls were only demolished because Building Control said they weren't stable enough. Sometimes the owner has appealed and won but I wouldn't want the stress.

Can it make the Tea?

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-11648041/Woman-decides-divorce-husband-lover-AI-bot-ChatGPT-TOLD-to.html Woman, 37, decides to divorce her husband and move in with her lover - because AI bot ChatGPT TOLD her to..

My understanding is that any work that is necessary to enable the building to be constructed should be zero rated. So if trees have to be cut down to physically fit the house on the site they should be zero rated. Bit like demolition. If they are just to improve the view the removed trees might need to be mentioned as part of the landscaping plan in your planning application. I was required to plant 60m of hedge at the far end of a paddock and the trees and hedge plants were allowed on my reclaim.

Our MVHR incoming room vents have a small cone like this but I suspect its too small to make much difference.

Possibly.... The hire of temporary fencing (or any tools) is standard 20% rated and cannot be reclaimed. "Supply and fit% of fencing should be 5% rated to you on both. It can be a problem persuading some contractors that 5% is correct. Sometimes it helps to give them a certificate which is essentially a letter confirming that the work is on a qualifying conversion and citing any planning reference numbers etc. You can reclaim the 5%. If you just buy fencing panels and posts to install yourself these will be 20% rated and that is also reclaimable.

Indeed. I've no idea why they are treated differently. It does seem daft.

No you can reclaim it using VAT 431C. See above.