Temp

I think you should drain the heating system not just release the pressure. Unless there is a way to isolate the expansion vessel from the rads. If it needs draining put corrosion inhibitor back in afterwards (eg Fernox f1 or similar). What does @Prodave think? May need ptfe tape for the connection to the expansion vessel.

What's the thread between the hoop and the rod? For example Google "M6 stainless Steel standoff" finds hexagonal standoff. You can find them in other materials but not all are rated for outdoor use. Most are intended for mounting things like PCB. I would also ask the supplier of the guttering. I'm sure they must have something.

Depends what the surrounding houses are like. In an area where they are all in neat rows it will be a lot more Important. If you can find other houses in different orientations in the same road you can include photos or plans with your application in the Design and Access Statement. Sometimes it helps to provide a street view - an artists sketch drawing showing your house and those either side of it. Our Architect was good with pen and ink drawing and made ours look like it fitted in well. In reality trees, hedges and sloping ground mean you can't actually stand in one place and see that view. We spent a year trying to get approval for a house further back on our plot. They kept us moving bits around like that game you get in Christmas's crackers with squares you slide about. They were adamant it had to be built near the front which is narrow. In the end we discovered a letter they had sent the previous owner saying "a house further back on the plot might be better". We were furious at the waste of time and money.

@PXR5If not too late make sure there is a clause allowing sale to anyone if you can't find a local buyer after some period of time on the market. Your lender may also want to see the wording as occupancy restrictions affect the value.

Can anyone see the pics @Pudding posted? I just see a No Entry sign for sale this on this page. Other photos on other pages are OK. I'm on an Android tablet so I guess they could be a format it doesn't support?

I'm not sure if it's the same in Scotland but innEngkand Building Control only have 12 months to initiate any enforcement... https://www.planningportal.co.uk/applications/building-control-applications/building-control/building-regulations/failure-to-comply-with-the-building-regulations So too late them to initiate enforcement action. If you are confident allmis in order you could ask Building Control if they would do a final inspection and issue a warrant or completion certificate.

Tip for others If you are ever given a quote "Inc Vat" or "plus VAT" always request a new quote that reflects the zero rated status before accepting it. It's always easier to get this done before you've accepted it.

You might consider offering the UK company a "certificate". Theses are essentially a letter from you to the company certifying that their supply and fit is for a new dwelling that qualifies for zero rating. It should state that and give all your contact details, the site address and the planning reference number. Officially HMRC doesn't need a certificate (unless it's a charity building ?) but they can sometimes smooth problems like this. These certificates are mentioned in VAT708 and there is/was a template certificate as well but it needs a lot of editing. Several people on here have produced one.

https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat

Make sure at least £100 is paid by credit card.

The answer he got from hmrc depends on what information he gave them. If he missed some detail then he will get the wrong answer. I suggest you ask in writing on the HMRC VAT help forum. Make sure you tell them you are a self builder employing someone on a supply and fit basis and that the supplier is doing the importing. I agree with others. He should pay the VAT and reclaim it by deducting it when he makes his VAT return. He must zero rate the windows and installation to you because you cannot reclaim VAT paid in error. The only exception would be if you ordered the windows yourself from Poland with the "help" of the installer. Perhaps not consciously - check the small print in the contract. Is it all with supplier/installer or do you have a contract with the Polish manufacturer?

If it was a simple phone issue he would be contacting you to let you know. Write to him signed for and keep copy. Be careful what you write about him online until this is resolved.

Remember they have access to Google Streetview and satellite images.

Do they even need one? Many times just draining and refilling a few times is all that's needed. Remember to put some corrosion inhibitor in for the last fill. Corrosion products are what cause the blockages.

Well done!

I would fit boards to the long walls (3.5m) and run joists across the short way (2.5m). Think I'd probably use mini joist hangers to attach joists to the wall boards. No need to tie into the existing ceiling if they are large enough. That woukd also minimise noise transmission.

40mm isn't great. If you are likely to heat it I definitely look at perhaps doubling that or more. Would it be easy to add insulated plasterboard later? 100mm+ in the floor. Consult the supplier before you do the slab but Ideally arrange for it slab to be slightly smaller than the building and a bit above ground level. That way water can't pool on the top of the slab and possibly run under the walls. Instead it drips off onto the ground surrounding the slab. Alternatively make it bigger and raise the building on a brick course. Either way plan for how water will be prevented from running under the door. Perhaps look at how they recommend doing a Part M level access front door on a house.

If you change your mind and go for oil beware they don't modulate down like a gas boiler - there is an argument for using a thermal store instead of just a DHW tank with oil.

Bricks are surprisingly porous/not waterproof so there is always a slight risk of water bridging the cavity when CWI is inistalled. I've also heard the graphite coated bead system is less likely to allow this to happen but I've not read any proper studies. If the outside of your house was rendered that should pretty much eliminate this risk.

Are there any electrolytic capacitors in there? Any with bulging tops? I would try replacing them with a good quality high temperature replacement.

If building that close check how the Party Wall Act applies. I know it applies when excavating near neighbours buildings but I haven't looked to see if it applies to garden/retaining walls.

Do you know anyone with a moisture meter? Would be interesting to compare the different colour areas to see if the wood gas a higher moisture content. Interesting that it looks drier under the rug? I might have expected it to be the other way around. Eg rug prevents moisture evaporating.

I've just laid 60cm * 40cm stone in a bathroom. Floor was perfect but the stone varied quite a bit in thickness. Was using a big notch trowel but found it very difficult to judge how much adhesive to back butter the stone with. Kept using too much on the thinner tiles and finding I couldn't press then down far enough. Hard work lifting, cleaning and starting over. If they had been uniform thickness I could have done the floor in a day but it took me about three days. The varying thickness made the tile levelling system much less effective as well. I'm only a DIY tiler but Im fussy when it comes to tiling and it's got to look perfect. Perhaps it wouldn't have been such a problem for a professional. Edit: Oh and I used double the adhesive I calculated.

Can they afford to fix it? Retaining walls can be pretty expensive. How high is it? If its dangerous Building Control might intervene. Possibly more likely if the site is an open green space that children can access rather than a fenced off building site but worth a try. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/246863/130510_-_Circular_Letter___Walls__Final_.pdf . See also.. https://www.northampton.gov.uk/info/200011/building-control/1695/building-control-guidance---dangerous-structures

Just found..