Temp

That's virtually the same as what I did. In case not obvious to @Ticky.. The blue lines are typically plastic sheet. The one below the slab stops water in the concrete draining out weakening the mix before it sets. Under mine I put hardcore and a sand blind. The one above is a DPM. There is also a DPC on top of the brick courses. The one in the wall is a Vapour Control Layer marked VPC. On mine I made the slab slightly above ground and put small gravel filled trench around the outside edge. I also extended the cladding down to about 50mm above the slab to hide the engineering bricks I used.

PS: The absence of a mixer probably explains why your actuators feel pretty hot when it is working. UFH temperatures are normally 30-50C eg lower than boiler/rad temperatures 60-80C. If you have any solid wood flooring this can be damaged by too high a floor temperature. Ditto some lino like products have a max floor temperature. Sometimes as low as 38C.

Yes they can be added. There would normally be a pump and mixer on each manifold. The manifold pump sends the same water round and round the floor loops. The mixer injects new hot water into the floor loops to maintain them it at a set temperature. Typically looks something like this (see photo). The pump is obvious. The mixer is at bottom left near the flow and return valves. You might also need a bypass added to the system to deal with a situation where the mixer on both manifolds is closed. We have seen all sorts of problems on here. Manifold pumps and mixers are normally fitted on the left of the manifold. We've seen problems where they have tried to fit them on the right due to a lack of space and they have ended up being fitted upside down or with the pump pointing in wrong direction. If your plumber doesnt know about UFH I would find another that does. I note a distinct lack of insulation on all your main flow and return pipes as well.

+1 Mouse traps baited with peanut butter work very well for us. Just don't double dip the spoon if you need to reload them or keep a pot marked "mice only".

On most systems the actuator heads press down on a pin to turn off the flow. Removing the actuatorcallows the pin to come up/on. This pin can get stuck down/off. Perhaps remove the actuators on that one and another to compare it with. Eg both/all pins come up to the same height? Does the flow increase with the actuator removed? If that all checks out I would try turning off the three good loops and turn on the problem loop. Does that cause the flow rate on the problem loop to go right up? If so sounds like balancing issue. Partial blockage? When you check for a blockage with a hose make sure you put the supply hose on the flow manifold and hose to drain on the return manifold. Make sure the actuator is open (pin up).

Those bars are 12mm diameter. What I would do is laminate up three 12mm sheets giving 36mm thickness. The centre layer wouldn't be solid. I'd cut strips for a frame around the edges and to form pockets where the brackets are going. This will be fairly heavy even hollow so quite a few brackets needed. PS the metal bracket on the rod needs recesing into the back edge of the shelf. Might be possible to do this for all the brackets at once with circular saw or router before glue up.

Think it's normally stuck on with a contact adhesive. Something like Evo stik Impact. Available in tins.

PS: I put the flush button plate on the top of some boxing and then discovered the inward opening window hit it 😞

Google for "concealed cistern" lots available to go in cabinets/boxing. In my limited experience... You need to plan ahead to get the waste and flush pipes at the right height. Remembering to allow for tiles/stone flooring. They also need supporting so they cannot move backwards because you are going to be pushing the WC into onto/into the pipes and it can take some force. Not huge force but if you don't allow for it the pipes may move back into the boxing so you can't get them connected. You don't want to discover this after you have done all your tiling and can't get access. Some cisterns are designed to be serviced through the flush button plate. These can be mounted either on the front face or the top of the cabinet/boxing. Others have remote operating buttons connected to the cisterns by air tubes. These allow the smaller buttons to be off to one side for example, but then you need to form an access panel to service the flush valve. You don't need a metal frame type unless you go for a wall mounted pan.

+1 And put an 8mm polypropylene draw rope in it. Part R (England) appears to allow this if you don't have the right to lay cables in the road?...

Building Regulations applicable to a development are normally frozen at the date you apply for BC Approval. In some cases you have to start work by a specified date. For example there were changes made to the regs on 15 June 2022. As long a building notice or full plans application was submitted before 15 June 2022 they were considered under the previous regulations. This was provided building work starts before 15 June 2023.

I think this points to what @PeterW suggested. Nothing opening the valve when only UFH is calling for heat. I'd get someone to look at it. Make sure they know its never really worked and show them the above.

Tape measures are genetically related to socks.

In this picture the vertical pipes obviously come from the boiler but where do they go after passing the tap off for the UFH? When it's in the not working state (CH off UFH on and calling) do these vertical pipes get hot? I know you mentioned the manifold only gets warm but what about these vertical pipes?

I assume the UFH has never worked corectly? Q1: Is it a system boiler (pump in boiler) or is there a seperate pump? If seperate does it run when only the UFH is on and calling for heat? Q2: When the CH is off and the UFH is on and calling for heat do any rads get hot (eg when they shouldn't) ?

Not sure about this but.. Would it be better to move the wall/door nearer the table so the cupboards shown are on the kitchen side. Would there be enough room above the door lintel for a small hole just big enough for the projector lens. Eg projector in kitchen cupboard.

I helped a traveller in our village once. Wanted water for his horse grazing on the verge up the road. Two days I'm walking across the village green and I pass the same chap chatting with someone. I say hi as I'm going past and get an earful of abuse from him. Next day he knocks on the door again asking for water. Told him go whistle. They really are their own worse enemy. I feel sorry for their kids. At the local Primary school they make a big fuss of students when they leave. These days schools worry about the transition to senior school and there are taster days at the new school etc. Last day the kids get invited onto the stage at assembly and the head asks which school they are going to next. They are given book/Amazon vouchers or similar. When it came to the travellers children they weren't able to answer because they wernt going to school ever again. The government comes down on you like a ton of bricks with fines if your kid misses a few days to go on holiday but if you don't register them for a school nobody seems to notice.

Very dependent on the local planners. They tend to look at the elevations so "filling in" the corner of an L shape house might be less objectionable that making one arm of the L longer because the overall size of each elevation hasn't changed. There is also a hard to pin down "thing" that makes some proposals just look massive compared to other houses of a similar size. Things like the proportion of windows to walls. Planners like extension to be subservient to the main house like this (eg slightly smaller in height and depth). I know you aren't doing an extension but its details like this that can help make a large place look smaller and more in keeping with the houses around it. There is a massive new house a few miles from us where the architect took this principle to extreme. The house consists of about 5 or 6 blocks each one subservient to the main house. I haven't been passed it in awhile but as I recall one is a room over an archway and that links to rooms above a large garage.

In which case the diagonal for that should be 7.593 m

Using the unPC Squaw on the Hippo (aka Pythagoras).... For bottom right corner.. Sqrt(4898^2+5787^2) = 7582 You measured 7630 so the bottom right corner is a tiny bit more than 90 degrees. For bottom left.. Sqrt(4898^2+5800^2) = 7591 You measured 7540 so bottom left is a tiny bit less than 90 degrees. So it's .pretty close just very slightly like this /_/ Repeat until you get bored.

Donated. Hope whoever fitted that door falls off a roof.

So I'm sitting on the loo at 3am last night and there is a loud bang that woke the wife and my loo seat has broken. It's a Roper Rhodes solid oak seat and the second we have had break. They don't make them like they used to.

Our fan unit is quite noisy close up but we put it in a small loft void above a porch so its outside of the main cavity walled building. Somewhere like a garage roof would be another possibility if you have an attached garage.

Did you take lots of photos of the foundations trenches etc Try showing those to him. Then I think I would approach his professional body. See what they say. Have you got anything like a contract with him that says a certificate will be provided? I suppose in the end his refusal might amount to breach of contract unless covered by the small print.

Not sure I would do that. I think I would buy a garden buildng/kit an erect it close but not touching the wall. Or build your own "kit" and erect it rather than building onto the wall. Eg build and clad a wall on the slab and lift it up. The roof/verge that side will also need planning in advance 8f you want it too close to the wall to stand and swing a hammer in the gap. You could try tanking your side of the wall but it's unlikely to work well because the wall is already wet and the water pressure is pushing the tanking off the wall. Tanking should be on the other side really. The damp wall may even appear to get worse when your building stops the water evaporating away. What I did was make the top of my slab above ground a few inches. Then I put a course of engineering bricks around the edge inset slightly. The building structure rests on a DPC on the brick course. I arranged for the cladding to overhang the edge of the slab so rain running down the outside drips onto a gravel filled trench around the slab not onto the top of the slab. The cladding stops 1" or so above the slab. Any water that gets blown under the bottom of the cladding onto the top of the slab is prevented from getting inside by the brick course. My roof overhangs the door like a stable so I didn't need a step up to prevent water getting under the door. I might be able to find a sketch drawing I did somewhere.