Temp

Would be interested to know what @Nickfromwales thinks about these? https://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-copper-plumbing-stick-15-x-1-2-x-300mm/61598?kpid=61598&ds_kid=92700055281954511&&&&&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQiArsefBhCbARIsAP98hXQ6k4ZIlNvYi1toXsIZSjy1srTFVdiivyNnifuIjAC7gqBZuImJfz0aAgZrEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds They aren't flexible just easier to bend than rigid copper pipe. I used one in a previous house but never lived there long enough to find out if there were any issues.

I want one of these.. Found on Amazon..

Think I might have answered my own question.. https://www.ajaxonline.co.uk/product/milight-5-in-1-led-controller/

For my next project I'm thinking of building an illuminated bathroom mirror. Something irregular shape like this to suit our bathroom that has a sloping ceiling above the basin. I can get a mirror cut easy enough. The back will be something like 20mm mdf painted/sealed with a waterproof LED strip around the edge. I haven't started looking for LED drivers yet but I know there are loads available. Does anyone know if there are types that remember their brightness/colour settings over a power outage? That way I could wire it to the same light switch as the main room lights.

Woke up to no mains water today. Short while later noticed our DHW loop pump was making a lot of noise. Looks like flushing the loo caused water to drain back out of the DHW pipes causing the loop pump to run dry. Think I need to fit a one way valve or a pressure sensor to turn off the loop pump if there is no mains pressure. Water co says no water for 10 hours 😞

Deleted. Didn't notice you said over 30sqm.

In which case was planning permission needed for the stables?

Many youtube vids on installing a bath don't show battens or a frame supporting the lip. This is what I would do.. https://youtu.be/7Rqysh9NHts

Never seen the floor and wall under a bath tanked. Lots of rotten chipboard flooring though. The life of the seal between bath and tiles depends on how rigid the bath is. If it moves up and down even a tiny bit when you get in and out the life of the seal can be affected. I would ensure the floor is solid, perhaps by fitting 18mm WBP to the floor and make a frame from 2x2 or similar to support the lip of the bath. Get it as rigid as possible. You could also use Hardibacker board or similar on the walls instead of regular plasterboard.

Receipts for animal feed or similar? May well be historic satellite images but not sure if sheep are large enough to show up. My house built in 2007 shows up partly constructed on one set so I could prove when it was built.

It's important that the buildings have been in agricultural use for 10 years. If they really have been used as stables for horses then you should be OK. If there is any evidence of other use such as storing cars or garden equipment that could be problematic. That includes evidence on old Google Earth/street view images. The building must also be "capable of being converted" technically. Eg not in such bad condition that they require significant knocking down and rebuilding. Underpinning is allowed I think. So what is/was it before the stables were built? Were they built within the planning rules? This whole area can be a bit of a minefield and making the wrong or too early approach to the planners can mess up your chances if you don't know what you are doing. In view of the likely value in your part of the world I would employ a planning consultant in stages. Eg Initially to just give you an opinion on the sites chances of passing the tests for class Q and anything you need to do to maximise the chances first. If that looks OK then get him to quote for submitting a class Q prior notice application. For that second stage you may need them surveyed and architects drawings done etc

https://www.abbeypynford.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Treesafe-Brochure.pdf

Did the site investigation involve a proper lab test? We're on clay with a tree or two nearby and ended up with 1.5m deep trench foundations with expansion board linings. Edit:.. Ah right I see they are protected trees so the use of piles is probably to protect the trees from the house not the house from the trees. I suspect they may not allow trench foundations for that reason.

Many GU10 LED bulbs and fittings come in a range of beam angles. The narrow beam bulbs (eg 28 degrees) create a "spot" effect, more shadows but less glare. The wider angle beams (90, 120+) create a more uniform light but more glare. With the old halogen bulbs the filament emits 360 degrees and the beam angle is controlled by the reflector and fitting. If she really hates glare I probably wouldn't fit spots at all. Fit larger fittings with diffusers or uplighters that bounce light off the ceiling so you cant see the bulb directly.

Pretty sure you can't reclaim Polish VAT from HMRC any more. Was possible pre Brexit. Think they are meant to export free of Polish VAT. If they say they cannot export without charging Polish VAT you might have to live with that. But beware you will probably get hit for UK VAT as well. At least the UK VAT you can reclaim. In some cases EU countries can register with HMRC and charge you UK VAT (20%) but i think this is mainly companies like Amazon ES.

I ask if the company has exported to the UK since Brexit and ideally direct to end customers not just companies. Ask for any numbers they need from you. In the EU companies are used to asking for an EORI number which is a bit like a company ID number. I don't think they need one to ship to the UK but I suspect some shipping companies always ask for it just to cover all bases and avoid hold up at ports. If I remember correctly someone on the forum was able to register and get an EORI Number but as I said I don't think it's needed to import to the UK. Remember to try and pay at least the deposit (>£100) on a credit card if you can.

For that there is also Einstein's idea that energy and mass are equivalent. Eat too much energy and you gain mass. 🙂

Ours are oak veneer with a solid nose.

I'd still collect data for the mediator.

Yes solar panels heat up a bit more when they are off. If we assume a solar panel is 20% efficient for every 100W of solar energy recieved upto 20W can be converted to electricity. Of the remaining 80% some is reflected and the rest is absorbed raising the temperature until enough is emitted as heat. The law of conservation of energy means if that 20%/20W isn't removed by the inverter it must escape another way. The reflectivity doesn't increase so the temperature of the panel will increase a bit more until it is radaiting and conducting the extra 20%/20W away.

Problem then might be getting two 6mm^2 into the terminals to connect them together.

I think it's possible to extend the 6mm^2 into the back of a cupboard to one side. There fit a switched double socket. The 13A plugs on the appliances are fused so that protects their cables. The double socket should be accessible but many people have them at the back of cupboards. The 6mm^2 needs extending correctly but I think it can be done with the appropriate sized connector blocks in a recessed box. Are the leads on the appliances too short to do this? Check what your electrician says about this.

Is this going in an extension? How tall is the rest of the house? A more serious problem can occur if the flue is lower than some parts of the building. In some wind directions you get a down draught in the wind shadow of the building. The normal recommendation is 1m or so taller than the highest roof if possible (rarely is).

We had 16 people over for a curry last Saturday. Think I've almost finished the washing up.

Ours are all internal. Make sure they have the special large radius bend at to bottom. The stack furthest from the main sewer should be open vented (according to our BCO) any others can have an AAV.