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Is it possible you cut it back too far? Got a lot of shade? Lawn sand can green up a yellow lawn but not if its got bare patches. Not normally recommended for new grass either. Think I'd overseed any bare patches with mix of fine soil and seed.

One option is to notch the posts so the rails go into the post. Taper the rails so they don't have to be a precise angle. Probably rots quicker... https://www.hooverfence.com/how-to-install-fence-panels-at-odd-angles Or perhaps bend your own arris rail brackets. Commercial ones are typically 90 degree..

Self levelling screed can be as thin as 3 to 5mm up to 50mm. So 40mm should be fine. Check the spec before buying. If the room has three seperate concrete slabs you are very likely to get some cracking where the slabs meet. These cracks can propagate through tiles. So I think you will also need an isolating membrane on top of the self levelling before tiling. I think a typical 20kg bag will cover 1 sqm to between 10 and 15mm depending on brand. So I think you are likely to need betwedn 50 and 80kg per square meter. It can also start to set quite quickly so you have to be able to mix and spread it fast enough to keep up with that. It's exothermic so I think thick layers are more likely to self heat and accelerate setting. I've only used it once so others might be better to comment.

I think there is a spreadsheet somewhere that each council uses to justify the CIL. It lists capital expenditure projects that it was meant to fund and the number if houses it expects to build. Divide one by the other to get the CIL per house - that sort of thing. Many of these will gave been drawn up when the CIL is first introduced in an area. Now several years later someone should file an FOI request to see how much was raised and which projects it was speant on. Some areas might have raised all the money required and still be raising it. Others might not have spent it on the stated projects.

How big is the room that's too high? Might be easier to break it out and relay it the correct height?

Sorry, looks like they only have the gloss version on clearance.

This is what I had in mind above. The two 90 degree bends dont need to be vertical but can be rotated to preserve some of the fall for along the pipe if needed. The bits aren't very expensive. I'd get both sizes and see it the 50mm will fit. Perhaps pick up some 45 degree as well in case this helps. With solvent weld I test fit everything without adhesive then put alignment marks on all joints so I can assemble it in my hands rather than trying to do it in situ. A decent amount of adhesive give you a bit more time before it sets up.

The window could be problematic. Technically not even a window ledge should extend over the property boundary without permission (trespass). Porches are normally Permitted Development if they meet the rules for Porches, otherwise you need PP. As permitted Development rights have been removed im pretty sure you need Planning Permission for both.

Just noticed that Jewson appear to have Sadolin Extra Clear 2.5 L on clearance at just £12 ! https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/sadolin-woodcare-extra-durable-clear-coat-gloss-2-50-litres-DCSADCG2?utm_source=RakutenAdvertising&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_campaign=3354356&Pubname=Redbrain&utm_offer=Private+baseline+2%&cid=aff-5de4qn&ranMID=47462&ranEAID=pfxNKSnglIM&ranSiteID=pfxNKSnglIM-PuT5aQtJEtMDb5dt9fy0wQ It's normally £42 to £48 . Not sure about availability but they have a check stock by postcode button at the above.

or failing that false walls look better than boxing if you dont mind losing the space. Personally we quite like wall mounted taps and spouts as they stay cleaner longer and false walls make that lot easier.

Is it possible you have soakaways? One option is to tip a dye into the gutter and have someone watch the inspection chambers.

Certainly looks OK. Standard hinges open to about 85 degrees. Egress hinges normally open to a true 90 degrees. I'm wondering if the BCO thinks 90 degree hinges are mandatory for some reason?

@Ernie Im afraid many planning departments have suffered massive cuts over the last 20 years. When we started there were several planning officers, two conservation officers, a tree man etc. Now you get a planning officer that works part time. In some cases they share their time with another council. The only way they can approve enough new houses is to allow one or two big developers to build on a green field site. They don't have the resources to process hundreds of applications for one or two houses. When something like a massive industrial development comes along they have to rely on local action groups to pay for landscape expert witnesses.

Or here they are doing it with wood, possibly fencing arris rails. Perhaps worth watching the whole series.

There are trim strips like the ones in this video but not sure if they can be used with torch on felt. Here they are fiberglassing the roof... Note the trim at front and sides is different to allow drainage.

Here is how they do it on a door....

If its 550mm to the edge of your square it should be OK. Sometimes they measure to the handle if they think that reduces the clear opening width.

I thought mine was neat but that's excellent.

I would put an inspection chamber at the top of the drawing between house and road. Connect 110mm pipe from that to rest bends at the bottom of each stack. Also run 110mm pipe up through the floor under the utility sink. Below the sink use adaptors down to suit the sink waste pipe. How thick are your floors? You appear to have/need to run 110mm pipe from the main bathroom backwards in the floor under the corridor to one of these the 2 stacks. Might be better to have a stack in the bathroom? But you have dining room below? You also have 110mm from one of the ensuites going under the door of the other to get to a stack. Drilling 110mm holes in joists might be possible but can be difficult to get enough fall as well. Yes and I think that's OK. MVHR has a condensation outlet which is small bore. Pressurised heating system have a pressure relief valve and I think that can go to a svp via a tun dish.

New plaster can soak up pait unevenly. I would give it another coat or two and see if t improves.

I guess you can't turn it 90 degrees because it isn't circular. The trap I mean not the tray. Can you turn it 180 (so the outlet points the wrong way), then make 180 descending bend to get it lower and heading in the right direction? Use 2 large radius bends not sharp 90 degree. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-solvent-weld-bend-92-5-white-50mm/96439

These are the sort of vents that should really be used on a cold roof construction. Note the OSB deck doesn't go right up to the wall. There is a gap for air flow.

+1 Best put it all above the rafters if you can.

Google found a condensation risk analysis for a warm flat roof using 120mm PIR above and 100mm Mineral wool between the rafters. Hope they don't mind me posting a llink and extracts here.. https://bmdevelopments.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Condensation-Risk-Analysis-Flat-Roof-120mm-PIR-100mm-Wool-17Sep2020.pdf

Your builder next door is correct. Cold roofs need ventilation between the waterproof layer and the insulation. This can be difficult to achieve if the rafters run perpendicular to the wall of the house (which they normally do. You should really fit a special vents all along where the roof meets the wall of the house under the flashing. Many roofers don't bother to do this. The only real disadvantage of a warm roof construction is that the overall thickness of the roof is normally greater. You can mitigate this by putting some insulation between the rafters as well as above but not too much. The normal rule of thumb is no more than 1/3rd between and 2/3rds above, but you should really get a condensation risk analysis done to check the exact make up. National Federation of Roofing Contractors.. https://www.nfrc.co.uk/docs/default-source/form-protected-documents/homeowners/householders-guide-to-flat-roofing-2015.pdf LABC Guide.. https://www.tendringdc.gov.uk/sites/default/files/documents/planning/building control/Flat roof guide for website PDF V2.pdf