Temp

A lot of duct is sold with a draw string pre installed. This should be used to pull a 3/8 inch polypropylene draw rope (or two) through.

Never buy a leasehold property. It has taken us a year to get the lease on a flat extended due to the land Lord p1ssing about. Had to pay for both the Tribunal AND then court action. In both cases the landlord did the bare minimum to avoid an official ruling and has delayed at every turn. Lost our very patient buyer at Christmas. Had to reduce the asking price 10% and still not getting viewings. Now we have just received this from our solicitor.. TWO YEARS JUST TO REGISTER A LEASE !

I was quoted £100/m for a small water main diversion back in 2005/7 so this sounds reasonable to me.

I raised my out building on two courses of bricks but ran the cladding battens and cladding down over them to about 25mm above the gravel that surrounds the slab.

I found this.. https://www.beama.org.uk/static/9f03d5e3-dd77-4424-96c138133b9b0cd5/BEAMA-guidance-on-Part-F-of-the-Building-Regulations-for-Dwellings-in-England.pdf See Page 8.

When the war in Ukraine ends there will be massive rebuilding there. I reckon there will be a big shortage of trades in Europe.

https://www.diydata.com/carpentry/screw-holes/wood-screw-holes.php Says.. Pilot 2.0 or 2.4 (softwood) 2.8mm (hardwood). As they are SS I would go on the larger side. Perhaps even 3mm.

Travis Perkins have 7.3N.. https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/100mm-blocks/solid-dense-7-3n-concrete-block-grey-100mm/p/700064

I suspect 7N will be fine as I doubt architects design things to be that marginal. We used mostly 7N blocks and we have B&B first floor. Just had to use 14N under some steel beams.

My understanding is the Building Regs require either scheme membership or a Building Control Application. However since you already have an ongoing Building Control Application for the house they might allow it. On the other hand you might get a jobs worth that wants to see plans for the electrics. This is very old.. https://electrical.theiet.org/bs-7671/building-regulations/part-p-england-and-wales/certification-schemes/#:~:text=What are competent person self,carry out 'notifiable' work. Ask your electrician if he's still a scheme member. If not try for a chat with your Building Control Officer. Tell him you got a good electrician but he's retired and ask what he woukd need. If he says yes verbally send him an email to confirm what was agreed.

They do have drivers that do a combination of PWM and "Constant Current Reduction" but thats called Hybrid HydraDrive. https://eldoled.com/insights/how-designers-can-use-flicker-safe-dimming/ Probably not this unless your driver can be accidentally programmed into a mode like this. I think it might be worth contacting them. Perhaps send that "odd" waveform to them and mention the Meanwell works fine.

@Susie We had to divert a waterman and the process also involved chlorination. They put it in the pipe then come back and test the water some weeks later, if the results are OK they make the connection. Only in our case they forgot to come back to test it so had to repeat the whole process over again 😞

Appears not.. https://www.stwater.co.uk/building-and-developing/help-and-faqs/water/can-i-connect-a-new-property-to-next-doors-water-pipe/ You can lay the new pipe yourself. Some water companies allow different depths. Sometimes as shallow as 24 inches. I suppose it might be possible to lay 45mm pipe with a ripper and pipe layer on a tractor rather than trench but Ive not done that.

If I've understood the note correctly... if the rise time is too fast the first few uS (?) of each pulse will be full current (eg not regulated). At max brightness those few uS would be an insignificant percentage of the ON time, but when dimmed they will be a much greater percentage of the ON time and therefore much more noticeable. Try increasing the brightness very slowly in small steps. If its as I think I would expect them to gradually become the same brightness. If there is an obvious/sudden point where they switch from different to the same then its probably something else.

Have a chat first. If you don't get anywhere then you may have to start writing formal letters.

Quite interesting read. Looks like they have to use variable frequency to meet the IEEE safe operating area, something I hadn't thought of. There is also a note on page 8 that suggest too fast a rise time might cause the regulator FET to turn on before the stabilisation circuit is working. This would possibly cause some LED sections to be too bright at low PWM. If that's what's happening then adding capacitance to the output of the PWM driver to reduce the rise time might work. But what value would be required would be hard to determine an might have unwanted side effects like heating the driver.

Would be interesting to see the waveforms of both drivers. The rise and fall time will effect how much RF interference they generate and might be deliberately limited?

I'm looking at the far corner of their shed. It looks like the fence moved and they built the shed on the "new land" that created. I think you might be surprised at the cost to replace that with something more suitable.

I had a quick look at the data sheet for the driver LINEARdrive 200D-D2Z2C and the default appears to be a log curve... So below 45% the output is going to be just a few percent. Does the Meanwell go that low?

Possibly.. https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3204748.pdf

The Celotex U-Value Calculator goes up to 200mm Perimeter 0.3 100mm 0.16 150mm 0.12 165mm 0.11 200mm 0.09

I'm not quite sure I follow who owns what but see.. https://www.partywalladvice.com/2022/05/22/ownership-of-a-defective-retaining-wall/ Your title deeds can be downloaded from the Land Registry web site for just a few £. However beware there are fake sites that charge more and all they do is forward your request to the Land Registry. The correct website is here.. https://eservices.landregistry.gov.uk/

Pity they built their house in someones back garden.

Years ago you could buy edge tiles which had a rounded edge for this. I guess they are no longer made?

Sorry if silly questions but. Do you really need the opening to be so wide? Reducing the span should reduce the depth of beam required. Probably not a option but a post, pillar or chimney mid span should also reduce the depth. Double sided fireplace or aquarium?