Temp

We used Hardie Backer board and stone photo above. Too heavy for young kids to lift and held down by the flush plate anyway.

That's also what I did. Used stone in both our bathrooms and was careful just to centre a 600mm wide piece on the pan. Stuck the stone to the removable bit of hardi backer board. Didn't bother to grout the joints either side but could do.

Think ours is an Eclisse. Its been awhile since we did ours but I think the end result is fine. Important things... Bear in mind the open width will be less for a sliding door because the whole door doesn't dissapear into the pocket. So you might want a bigger door? Pick a door handle early on because it's position and dimensions are needed to set the door stop. Eg to prevent the handle squashing your hand against the frame when fully opened. Use the right screws to fix the plasterboard to the pocket/frame. Don't over tighten. This is to avoid the pointy ends going in too far and scratching the door when you open it. If you can choose a light weight door. Easier to accelerate and decelerate it.

Try turning off the incoming main an see if other cold taps and shower continue working (more than just emptying pipes). If they also stop working they are also fed direct off the mains so what's their flow rate like?

Will the en-suite get a lot of use? We have a sliding pocket door on one of ours. They are annoying to open and close frequently. Hard to do quickly without banging against the stops. If yours is between en-suite and walk through wardrobe perhaps it would be left open most of the time thecen-suite is in use?

Is there water getting into the cavity higher up? Blocked gutters?

I know someone who built a nice 3000 sqft house. It cost them about £1.1m to build incuding the plot, everything. It's probably worth £800k.

Perhaps gang up with the neighbours and write a joint letter of complaint to the water co. Ask them to investigate. Does the house have a big cold tank in the loft and possibly pumps to boost the pressure for other outlets? Combi boiler or stored hot water tank?

Possibly. What time of year was it laid? The air is more humid in summer than winter so if it was laid tight in winter it will be under lot of stress come summer. That and a very hot floor due to sunlight would be my guess.

I think the requirement for houses to have charging points was introduced in June 2022. Thats when Approved Document S was introduced. So if the Building Control Application for your house was submitted before June 22 then you may not need one to meet the building regulations. If after June 22 then I think you do. However if the specification/contract for your house says it includes a charging point then I would expect one to be provided regardless.

https://www.watersafe.org.uk/advice/common_plumbing_questions1/pressure/what_is_the_minimum_water_pressure_that_a_water_supplier_must_supply/ Unfortunately water companies are only obliged to provide 0.7bar measured in the pipe between the main and your boundary so the 9L/min mentioned above isn't binding. Got any near neighbours? Ask them what they get. If they are in similar houses and get much better then check all the stop cocks are fully open. Some houses have pressure reducing valves to prevent taps splashing everywhere. In my experience these pressure reducers seem to need adjusting every few years as the flow reduces gradually over time. There is usually a screw sometimes hidden under a label. Does the kitchen tap have an aerator or strainer or filter in the supply tails? Sometimes these scale up reducing flow rate. Is it a new house? Old place with a long driveway/supply pipe?

My guess is high humidity has caused them to expand and bow upwards. If the boards were stuck down its possible the sun has softened the glue near the window and the expansion has caused them to pop up.

I'm not sure how that can happen unless the T&G has failed?

I think I was probably about that.

Are you doing a knock down and rebuild or building a new house in back garden or ? Eg Will the new house have same address? If its going to be a new address you may want to get that onto sorted first via the council so it's on all the databases. Sometimes service providers cannot create an order on their computer if they can't identify the address. Getting phone connections sorted can be pretty frustrating. I think in theory for a new house you can go direct to Openreach but some have tried that only to be referred to a service provider like BT. Openreach provide a developer portal where you can register new developments as small as one house but sometimes they say they can't do anything without an order from a service provider.

No. Only analogue phone lines.

Have you checked you have sufficient ventilation at the eaves. You typically need the equivalent of a 10 - 25 mm wide slot the full length. That's a lot of 80mm round vents, perhaps 4 - 5 per rafter bay. Sometimes you have to have two staggered rows to meet recommendations a one line won't fit. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/7-roofs/7-2-pitched-roofs/7-2-15-ventilation-vapour-control-and-insulation/

For Thermaclass Cavity Wall 21 the board size installed is 1190 x 450mm (installed). That's an area of 1.19 x 0.45 = 0.53 sqm. So work out the area of your walls and divide by 0.53 to get the number of boards needed. In the 140mm thickness there are 64 boards per pallet so divide the number of boards by 64 to get the number of pallets. Perhaps add 5% for cutting/wastage? Shop around/haggle.

Online Quote for triple glazed sealed units. Lots of options. Not used myself though. Looks like delivery by 26th. https://www.glasstops.co.uk/order-online/triple-glazed-unit-rectangle.html

Existing services disconnected/turned off in the road? Any planning conditions that say "Before work starts..?

I you plan to sell in a few years I'd be careful about costs. It's not hard to build a house that is worth less than it costs to build.

We just have some low level wall lights around the house mostly where there are steps and the patio. Quite like them as the give a certain "atmospheric feel".

I remember how they would fill up alarmingly when you flushed, then just before overflowing there would be a gurgling woosh and it would all disappear.

Welcome to the forum.

Most (all?) pans have a round outlet pipe but on many it transitions to something not perfectly round when you look down the pan. In my many years of cleaning pans (I'm over 60) it's best to avoid the ones with are very "square" as you get err build up in the corners. Most toilet brushes are round and don't always reach into the corners of the square if you get what I mean.