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Your two thread are likely related. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/33522-whats-going-on-with-this-brickwork/#comment-493044

Just seen your other thread,

It looks like there are 2 DPC, one just above the drain cover and another two bricks above it. Is that a linear drain around the whole perimeter? If the drain fills up with water there will probably be penetration below the lower DPC. There may also be some rain splashing up above the lower DPC. My guess is they painted the inside with a liquid DPM of some sort to try and minimise water penetration but a single skin wall is never a great idea. Perhaps consider raising the floor inside.. install a DPM lapped up the walls above the top DPC. Fit insulation and new floor screed to raise the floor.

This is what I did on a bigger outbuilding with tiled roof. How much is necessary I don't know.. Install duct for electricity. I used rebar hammered into ground and cable ties to hold duct in position. Level ground and compact with wacker plate. Add hardcore and compact in two layers. Add 25mm sand blind and compact. Add shuttering and plastic sheet to stop concrete losing water before it sets up. Pour concrete and level with top of shuttering. Push heads of long bolts into the concrete to later bolt building down. I used threaded rod and nuts. Support while concrete sets if necessary. Put lengths of pipe over bolts to stop you being impaled if you trip over.

Don't just put a shed on a concrete base that's bigger. Rain lands on the perimeter and runs under or rots out the bottom. Either raise the shed on a coarse of engineering bricks or make the slab slightly smaller than the shed and raised above the surrounding ground. The idea is rain hitting the walls of the shed drips off onto the ground not the top of the slab. You can also put gravel filled trenches around to reduce splashing up onto the walls.. I'd probably go for 100 + 100mm.

Perhaps I'm missing something but I don't see the connection between the use of a structural ridge beam to support the roof and the type of floor joist. Are there posts under the ridge beam that bear on the joists? Normally the beam would be supported on the gable end walls, interior walls or posts that go all the way down to the ground floor.

I'd get the membrane on at least in case it rains. Then 75mm glass wool batts (allowing 25mm for the membrane drape. Then as much PIR below the rafters as you can afford. Expanding foam where the PIR meets the purlins. Tape any joints.

PS if the wall is very uneven so there are wide gaps between wall and slate the lead may need support.

You can do what you propose but you must have soakers underneath. Sorry if obvious but you can't just have the flashing or water gets blown under. It doesn't look great though in my opinion..

If it was mine I'd lift the lid on the cover and see the cable could be lowered. If so then cut the concrete either side of the cable with disc in angle grinder. Chisel out a channel in the concrere. Split a plastic pipe lengthwise to get it over the cable. Concrete it into the slot cut.

The reason the dpc should be 150mm above patio is to prevent rain splashing up above DPC. That may not matter at a threshold because the rain splashes onto a door or glass etc. Thus is what Building Regs recommend for a level access threshold..

https://www.tap-safe.co.uk/

Google found.. https://www.monsterplumb.co.uk/lockable-half-inch-hose-union-bib-cock-quarter turn lever-1?gclid=CjwKCAjwg-GjBhBnEiwAMUvNW5HZqt6MhWZ_ByfhfzDdFCUNfyy6hXCrTwhbf8RT55lSf2pvPG0IJRoCDbsQAvD_BwE

I've never done a Velux so you may know more than me but.. I think there are several different flashing kits for different situations and types of tile so check you get the right one.

I always forget its lower case n for newtons but N when abrieviating.

I'm a bit late to this thread but.. To calculate a force you multiply the mass by the acceleration due to gravity g = 9.81m/s^2 (or 10 if you want to make the calculation easier) and you get an answer in Newtons (N). So a 60kg top hung pocket door exerts a force of about 60 * 10 = 600 N or 0.6kN on the track it hangs from. This is a point load as it acts more or less in one place. If you had a floor that you planed to tile with heavy stone that has a mass of 60kg/m^2 (60 kg per square meter) the extra force on each square meter would be 600N or 0.6kN. If your floor had an area of say 20 square meters the total force on the walls would be 20 * 600 = 12,000 N or 12kN. This is a distributed load as its spread over the area of the floor.

My thinking is that answering the FOI request is work the planners would rather not have to do. If it turns out the info doesn't help your case you can leave it out of the application and they can't link the request to you.

Search Google or Amazon for Decor Grates.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Decor+Grates&i=diy&crid=1CBYXQIUJJCBN&sprefix=decor+grates%2Cdiy%2C311&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 They appear to be floor vents and come with a back box and no mesh? Might be possible to add mesh yourself.

I'd say 510 is too small. Perhaps run rails front to back rather than sideways? Hang front to back rails from a shelf?

And something similar where the cladding has a window in it?

Google found.. https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/technical-blog/cavity-barriers-behind-decorative-cladding I have a small area of vertical hung tiles on battens so my house built in 2007 would no longer comply.

The DPM under the floor slab should really go up the wall and lap over onto the DPC. I can't guarantee it will be OK but I suspect as long as it's lapped up the wall to a point a few inches above the DPC it will be OK.

The full act is here. Their obligations are listed in chapter 2. 10. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2016/22/contents/enacted Eg.. I would ask something like.. With reference to the Housing and Planning Act 2016 Chapter 2 "Self-build and custom housebuilding".. 1. In each base year since 2016 to date, how many people have been added to part 1 of the "Self-build and custom housebuilding register" ? 2. In each base year since 2016 to date, how many people have been added to part 2 of the "Self-build and custom housebuilding register" ? 3. In each base year since 2016 to date, how many "serviced plots of land", that meet the obligations under the Act, have been granted planning perpermission. 4. The information the Council uses to determine that a planning application is for a selfbuild or custom build home as defined by the Act. Unfortunately I think councils are only required to meet local demand (Part 1 of the register). But it might still carry weight if they are way behind.

In my limited experience planners allow houses that are in keeping with their surroundings in scale and appearance. If you propose something that doesn't fit in or would set a president they don't want (eg outside village boundary) then they will find every possible policy excuse to reject it. ⁰

Councils are meant to maintain a "Self-build and custom housebuilding register" .. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2016/950/contents/made ... and make land available to meet the demand identified by the register, however the rules are complex and not all councils do anything more than maintain a list and charge you to be on it ! People get fed up paying for nothing and drop off the list. It might be worth finding out if the council have met their obligations under this legislation and reference it in a planning application. Perhaps get a friend to submit an FOI request if you can't find info online.